Battery box

[wookie1965]

I am about to build a battery box I am sending for these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Dual-USB-Car-Boat-Voltmeter-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Power-Adapter-Charger-3/222564582512?_trkparms=aid%3D555019%26algo%3DPL.BANDIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20151005190705%26meid%3D8f8f9f948fdf41a59755822b126d3d16%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26&_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Marine-100A-Power-Distribution-Bus-Bar-Terminal-Block-5x4mm-Screws/221494172797?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Marine-Grade-Cigarette-12V-DC-Lighter-Power-Charger-Socket-Boat-RV-Car-BH/311717295525?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-6-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-LED-Warning-Lights-Kit-Car-Race-Rally-Marine/292180352629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I need a switch not sure which one to get and can someone tell me would 20 amp cable be fine and 5 amp fuses.

[gtis]

I use 2.5mm  3 core mains cable can't remember what the fuses are

and a 110 ah 12volt leisure battery hope that helps

Neil

[wookie1965]

Already have the battery 85 ah, I have 2.5mm 3 core here but as far as I am aware you dont need an earth with 12v.

 

[RayD]

The fuses just need to be rated for the load and cable you are using.  If you have 2.5mm singles, then a typical rating is 24A (this can change with cable type and how it's installed).  As long as the 5A fuses will protect the cable and circuit you are using on them, and you protect the whole lot with a 20A fuse then you're good to go.

You are right, no earth needed.

Below is my box based on the same sort of gear as you, with the switch above the volt meter being momentary so you hold it down to read the voltage, and the blade fuse board bolted to the under side of the lid.

From memory I think I got all the switches from Maplin, with one to control all, one for 2 x USB outlets and one for 12V.

[gtis]

I just used the brown and blue cable with ring and spade connectors

and wired my charger cable to the battery so just need to plug the two plugs together 

and plug to charger in to the mains going to wire a 12 volt invertor in next

[wookie1965]

40 minutes ago, RayD said:

The fuses just need to be rated for the load and cable you are using.  If you have 2.5mm singles, then a typical rating is 24A (this can change with cable type and how it's installed).  As long as the 5A fuses will protect the cable and circuit you are using on them, and you protect the whole lot with a 20A fuse then you're good to go.

You are right, no earth needed.

Below is my box based on the same sort of gear as you, with the switch above the volt meter being momentary so you hold it down to read the voltage, and the blade fuse board bolted to the under side of the lid.

From memory I think I got all the switches from Maplin, with one to control all, one for 2 x USB outlets and one for 12V.

So cable from battery to switch switch to fuse board with inline 20amp fuse. Negative to switch then to bus bar. Use 5amps fuses when connecting to cigarette sockets usb and volt meter. that should be it. Is that right? I will look in Maplin for the on/off switch thank you.

[RayD]

5 minutes ago, wookie1965 said:

So cable from battery to switch switch to fuse board with inline 20amp fuse. Negative to switch then to bus bar. Use 5amps fuses when connecting to cigarette sockets usb and volt meter. that should be it. Is that right? 

Almost.  Cable from + on battery straight to fuse holder (20A) then switch, and from switch link to common on 5A fuses, although I would suggest 10A for at least one of your outlets, and from each fuse direct to outlets, or via other switches.

Negative terminal on all your outlets and VM straight to your bus bar, and a 2.5mm from that (the biggest common terminal) to battery -

[RayD]

Just to clarify, at 12V you don't need double pole so don't need to switch the -.  You'll only have a negative at the switch if it is illuminated like mine, otherwise you're only switching the +

[RayD]

Apologies for the really rough sketch but makes it easier to understand.  I would consider a switch on the USB outlets (if you have them) as the unit with LED will be on all the time otherwise.  Also a momentary switch on the VM (volt meter) as you will only want this on when you want to read the voltage.

[wookie1965]

7 hours ago, RayD said:

Apologies for the really rough sketch but makes it easier to understand.  I would consider a switch on the USB outlets (if you have them) as the unit with LED will be on all the time otherwise.  Also a momentary switch on the VM (volt meter) as you will only want this on when you want to read the voltage.

Your a star diagram is brilliant, this makes it much easier now thank you so much.

[symmetal]

Personally, I would not have a switch in the voltmeter, as the current it draws (around 20mA) is not significant compared to the rest of your equipment and it's a useful 'On' indicator as well as battery voltage. If you want to try and protect the voltmeter with a fuse, use the lowest rating fuse you can. (I think 1A is the smallest blade fuse you can get).

The USB module has a maximum load of 2.1A so I would put a 3A fuse in that circuit. It probably current limits at 2.1A but if not you don't want to risk it going short circuit through overload and delivering 12V to your 5V devices.

Just my thoughts. 

Alan

[RayD]

6 hours ago, symmetal said:

Personally, I would not have a switch in the voltmeter, as the current it draws (around 20mA) is not significant compared to the rest of your equipment and it's a useful 'On' indicator as well as battery voltage. If you want to try and protect the voltmeter with a fuse, use the lowest rating fuse you can. (I think 1A is the smallest blade fuse you can get).

The USB module has a maximum load of 2.1A so I would put a 3A fuse in that circuit. It probably current limits at 2.1A but if not you don't want to risk it going short circuit through overload and delivering 12V to your 5V devices.

Just my thoughts. 

Alan

Yes it's all choice.  As with everything on here there is never really a right or wrong way, just ones which suit the individual's circumstances best.  I only put the momentary switch on my VM because of the light, not the current drawn.  In the dead on night it's actually pretty bright, and I only want to check it every hour or so, but as noted, it's just choice 

[wookie1965]

I really appreciate all the help, made a daunting project on my own to something easy to do. 

[symmetal]

2 hours ago, RayD said:

Yes it's all choice.  As with everything on here there is never really a right or wrong way, just ones which suit the individual's circumstances best.  I only put the momentary switch on my VM because of the light, not the current drawn.  In the dead on night it's actually pretty bright, and I only want to check it every hour or so, but as noted, it's just choice 

Ah! that makes sense Ray.  As you say it's just personal choice.

2 hours ago, wookie1965 said:

I really appreciate all the help, made a daunting project on my own to something easy to do. 

Happy to help Wookie. 

[wookie1965]

Well sent for these today and got a couple of bits from Halfords. I have cable already just need connectors now but I will get them when I know what size.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-6-Way-Blade-Fuse-Box-Holder-LED-Warning-Lights-Kit-Car-Race-Rally-Marine/292180352629?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Dual-USB-Car-Boat-Motorcycle-Voltmeter-Cigarette-Lighter-Power-Plug-Socket-3/162571894947?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ON-OFF-Round-Rocker-Switch-LED-illuminated-Car-Dashboard-Dash-Boat-Van-12V/261513977084?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=560391577646&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RED-ROCKER-SWITCH-12V-250V-2PIN-SPST-ON-OFF-TOGGLE-6A-10A-Dashboard-Car/201148297369?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Auto-Marine-100A-Power-Distribution-Bus-Bar-Terminal-Block-5x4mm-Screws/221494172797?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOMDOX-Folding-Hand-Sack-Luggage-Trolley-Shopping-Cart-Load-UP-TO-40kg/262729612289?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-24V-Waterproof-Power-Motorcycle-Boat-Car-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Plug-UK/401315592649?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/garage-equipment/battery-chargers-jump-starters/halfords-positive-battery-terminal-connector

[RayD]

22 minutes ago, wookie1965 said:

Well sent for these today and got a couple of bits from Halfords. I have cable already just need connectors now but I will get them when I know what size.

Great stuff.  I really enjoyed building mine as you can add what you want when you want.  Be good to see how you progress with it.

[wookie1965]

Just now, RayD said:

Great stuff.  I really enjoyed building mine as you can add what you want when you want.  Be good to see how you progress with it.

Looking forward to building it now going to get some insulation for around the battery but think got something in the shed.

[cjdawson]

Loving the kit that you have ordered for your build.  Looking forward to seeing it finished.

Looking over the stuff that you bought, you've reminded me that the round rocker switches that I used for my dew heaters are far too bright.   So, I just ordered

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-ON-OFF-Round-Rocker-Switch-LED-illuminated-Car-Dashboard-Dash-Boat-Van-12V-/172822395207?var=&hash=item283d047947:g:QncAAOSw3VNZk7H~

The idea is that I'll replace my switches with these.    This will be a nice change to my distribution box as the switches currently are far too  bright, and they put out heat as well.  Both mean it's a waste of power.

[wookie1965]

Just started the build still waiting for bits and pieces but got battery in just need work out where going to put bus bar and fuse board and away of keeping battery in place. 

[symmetal]

Wookie, you could put a sheet of 6mm plywood to fit snugly in the bottom of the box. You could bolt it to the box base for added rigidity. If the battery is too high to allow the plywood to go underneath it, cut the footprint of the battery out of the plywood and the battery drops into the hole left and stops it moving. Screw or glue some wood strips to the plywood base around the battery to make a deeper 'hole'. For extra security you could cut out some slots in the base or wood strips to thread a luggage strap through and around the battery.

Additional plywood panels could be bolted inside the box, to the sides, which, along with the remainder of the base panel not taken up by the battery would make convenient mounting surfaces for your fuse panel and bus bars etc. 

Alan

[wookie1965]

Cheers Alan keep that in mind just put insulation at the bottom and sides battery only just fits in. 

[cjdawson]

 My new switches arrived today.    Was easy to swap out the old switches.    These look much better.   And the leds won’t get hot unlike the bulbs I had before.

[wookie1965]

Still waiting for fuse board, cigarette lighter socket and volt meter once I have these can work out where fuse board and bus bar are going.

[wookie1965]

Got most of bits now I know where they are going just wondering will Household 2.5mm twin and earth be ok to wire everything up obviously without the earth or should I get some 6 amp stuff. Thank you.

 

[mapstar]

Just picked up on your build Paul. Hope it's coming on well