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H-Alpha Solar Instrument Reccommendations


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I'm interested in canvassing opinions on what is the currently best setup you can get for visual H-Alpha solar observing.

To make things a little more complicated, I'm interested in hearing about what can be bought for 2 budget levels - £1k (or therabouts) or £2K (give or take a bit).

I'm more interested in a ready to go solution rather than modding something. I have to say that I'm nervous about Quarks from the mixed experiences that I've read about them but I might be able to overcome that.

I'm happy to use my existing mount arrangements so the above budgets can go on the instrument itself.

Thanks :icon_biggrin:

 

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I can't vouch for any others since the only one I've used is my one. I have the Coronado SolarMax II with the 15mm Blocking filter and it does deliver some nice detailed views on the sun. Flares on the rim, filaments, granulation, spots etc on the surface.

The focuser is one where you rotate a ring on the back of the tube, easily able to reach rough focus when loosening 2 screws with push pull, than fine focus using the ring.

 

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Hi John,

I'm a complete newbie to Ha, but here's my experience: I picked up a Lunt LS50THa PT BF600 from FLO for £900. It was a customer return - needing re-grease/o-ring replacement (common issue, reading forums). I bought with full manufacturers warranty, and it was tested by the good folk at FLO. I've been wowed with the views, and am delighted with it! It is true grab and go, and have popped out from work for 10mins to set up and see what's on show, the packed away again.

I've seen 3 scopes on the FLO clearance section, and there has been a few great deals on the 'For Sale' section here at SGL recently.

I've been so happy with it, that I've taken the plunge and have purchased a double stack filter for it - LS50C.  I haven't had an opportunity to try it yet: I've heard of astro equipment attracting cloud, but this seems to be attracting a hurricane at the moment. So both of these span your price points!

Can't speak to the Quark option for using with your fracs - you would probably get exceptional views with a good unit.

One comment re the LS50: it does not really seem to be compatible with binoviewing.  The Lunt 60mm would be a great option for BV.  I have looked through one (with a 50mm DS) and the views were simply incredible!  There's one in the For Sale section... :hiding:

:evil4:

Tbh, when you add a focuser upgrade, plus a storage case, stretching to the LS60 starts making a fair bit of sense...

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Hi John,

for 1000 I would go for either a ls50 (new) or second hand tilt tuned ls60

- this looks a good deal

http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=130323

- most people seem to ask way to much for a 2nd hand tilt tuned ls60 :(

- here's a ls50 with feathertouch for 850 (looks a nice deal too)

http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=130665

for 2000, I would go for double stack ls50 over a single stack ls60. Of course if you target eventual ls60 double stack then you better start with a ls60 and add the 60mm double stack later... the double stack ls60 is a lifetime keeper :)

If you were to get a ls60 then later add a 50mm double stack to it (losing aperture) then you may as well go the ls50 route from the start!

it is my understanding that it is easier to double stack a pressure tuned unit as the tilt tuned is less tuneable to find the sweet spot. So consider this before buying a tilt tuned ls60.

conclusion - decide where you want to end up? Solar is too expensive to buy and sell and buy again!

Alan

p.s. I too would be nervous about buying a quark.

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I wouldn't go for a solar scope John, with you having some lovely fracs id go for a Quark mate, as good as a 60mm DS system at the 3rd of the price. yer theres is a bit of risk involved but the risk is just time lost while waiting for it being replaced. these new lower power Quarks are more relyable than the older model and there are risks with the dedicated solar scopes too.  charl.

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There is no easy answer to your question im afraid

It really does come down to experience , budget , grad n go or warming up a solid etalon.

Id make the effort to try others set ups , preferably where there are a few , say at a star party , but even then it 

does take more than 20 or 30 mins to become accustomed to a rig , and remember your only viewing in one wavelength and 

it takes about 2 yrs to completely train your brain to 656.3 nm in the UK , or say half a year given California weather.

 

Brian 

 

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Great question John. I have been thinking the same for a while.

After reading a lot on this, it seems to me that a solar telescope would be the simpler solution, although the downside is that one would like to use his telescopes instead!

Regarding the quark, I suspect that the main reason why many units fail at some point is because the quark works very close at the focal point where the energy is very high. I wonder whether the quark would fail at the same rate if a full aperture ERF glass is added. Of course the downside of adding an ERF, apart from the additional cost, is that it limits one to use telescopes of a certain aperture.

Has someone had any experience with Quark + ERF ?

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If a serious imager then a full aperture ERF is preferable as this will prevent any heat turbulence within the OTA 

However in my experience , and being visual only you shouldn't 

require a full aperture ERF with a quark .... I have used mine at 150mm with a 2" 35NM and could not 

detect any residual heat after use.

PS quarks work very well with Binoviewers , as using both eyes tends to help prevent movement of your head as much given 

the extreme mags quarks offer.

 

Brian 

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I havnt Piero, but I know Davy-T and Ewan use one with ther 152 , I use a uv/ir filter with mine and the ed80 , and when I first got my quark I was a bit paranoid about the heat but it dosnt get hot at all only luke warm even after 3 or 4 hour session

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I think I am persuaded (by someone else!) that "standard" Solar Scopes
and the "Quark + Refractor" combination fulfilled rather different roles.
(The former seem good at full disks, the latter better for close up views)
Like so much in Astronomy you (ideally) might need both scope types. :o

If I were going to "start over" with a Solar Scope, I would probably save
for longer and buy e.g. a Lunt 60mm over a Lunt 50mm. The additional
aperture seems useful (Also re. standard small refractors). A "standard"
focuser seems to win out over the limited Helical focusser of the "50"! :)

But I have found that the small Solar Scope need not be a "Dead End"!
Basically, I have been "turned on" to the idea of the "Frankenscope". :cool:
SAFETY is an important issue with Solar Scope modification. But, with
a little thought / experience / reading there are upgrade possibilities...

I do think, compared to other fields of Astronomy, Solar astronomy is
"Quite Challenging"? If you want to IMAGE stuff, the Camera choice
is far from trivial! Ever see the (Tom Hanks) film "The Money Pit"? lol :D

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Well I have used a Lunt 60 for a while now, which is mightily impressive.  The Lunt 50 is not a patch on the 60, particularly for imaging hence I moved it on.  However, I have just purchased a nearly new Quark thanks to this forum.  I have yet to compare them and it may be a while because I lose the Sun soon from my obsy.  The Quark is some beast and I am not going to be hanging it off 1.25" kit thus I need to get a 2" IR cut before I use it in anger on my fracs.

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Chris you can use it in 1.25 mode with the 80mm (without issue) by far the much more effective ERF is the Baader 35NM as its 

actually a mini D-ERF ... and it's coatings will reflect a lot of the energy ... quarks are very good at reflecting this 

energy anyway as they operate the other way round !! I.E. ... the light path hits the BF firstly and as this is mirrored  it's 

reflected back up the OTA ... what you actually view through is the etalon window.

 

Brian 

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Thanks very much for the views and feedback so far. Very interesting :icon_biggrin:

Just to add a couple of factors into the mix:

- I don't image and I'm very, very unlikely to in the future.

- I don't get on at all with binoviewers so the instrument will be used in cyclops mode.

- The less hassle that is involved, the better for me. My preferred approach is always to dump the thing down and to start looking though it so I tend to steer clear of power supplies, lengthy setup times etc, etc, as far as possible.

Sorry if that makes things more awkward :rolleyes2:

 

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Thanks Shane :icon_biggrin:

On the other end of the budget scale, how would the views that this would give:

http://www.astrobuysell.com/uk/propview.php?view=130665

compare with the potential of this ?:

https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/301092-coronado-solarmax-40-ha-telescope/

With the £1K (or less) option I could move now wheras the £2K option would require a little fund raising.

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I honestly don't know John but hopefully others will chip in. You might find there's little difference in use but of those two of go with the Lunt given the focuser upgrade and presumed youth vs the coronado. Both would be better than a pst I believe although they are also amazing value used..

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My vote would go to the SM40 ... when these were available they were quite expensive ... £1400 odd or more dependant 

upon the BF ... I have owned both scopes in question and the old USA made SM40 etalons offer real finesse ( the plates 

were made very flat and parallel ) the end result is that you get a nice contasty , orange peely view of the disk more akin to

a DS Lunt than a SS one.

However Johns 50 with the FT upgrade does offer outstanding valve for money , best I've ever seen for an LS50.

I don't think you can loose with either option tbh.

 

The very best grad n go scopes are still the Solarscope SV50 & 60 models which offer the ultimate experience in etalon finesse.

 

Brian 

 

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Apart, obviously from cost, it depends a lot on what result you want from a solar telescope. I spent a couple of years with one of the earliest Coronado Helios1 70mm units and was very pleased with it albeit £2000 secondhand! until the PST came on the scene at circa £400 and in my view gave a better image. Several PST's later, including a pair as a binocular, I was introduced to PST modding. I'm not an imager, for which these small telescopes are ideal and having now got used to larger, high magnification, high resolution alternatives, there is no way I could turn back, there is just so much detail missing. :icon_biggrin:

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I think you are heading away from this approach but just to give you the numbers, a 160mm DERF (to go with a 152mm scope, AR152 in my case) and the Quark will put you at ~£2200. This type of set-up gives great close ups (images in my case) and I'm not so sure it's the type of thing that would best suit you particular preference.

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57 minutes ago, nightfisher said:

John, very best of luck choosing a suitable scope in this complicated minefield and rather specialized area, i cant give any input on scopes 

It is complicated - I'm pretty inexperienced in H-Alpha so I'm starting at or close to the bottom of the learning curve. In some ways that is the attraction as well though. I feel I need a new direction in the hobby currently.

 

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The Lunts are beautiful telescopes in their own right, and a double stacked LS50 would be a great choice. However I've been surprised at the scale of the jump to the LS60 - it allows detailed observation of features at mags of 75x plus where the LS50 is running out of breath at 40-50x - just my experience, both my scopes have been double stacked.

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