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So I was looking at having a go at NGC1499 with an unmodded D5300. After having a quick look, is it even worth it? I've had a try anyway and I'm currently running an 8 minute stack under light polluted skies. Preparing myself for some disappointment here. Can I get away with just adding more data under better conditions? Because I was shooting at 70mm on a standard tripod my exposure times are somewhat restricted. If there's anything at all from this stack I'll post it up but I'm not holding my breath

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Do you have a CLS filter in place? I try to limit my subs to 5 minutes, under light polluted skies that has proven tostill be 'ok'. You'll lose detail anyhow, trying to stretch out the LP, but you'll be amazed how much you'll still manage to get out of it.

Without CLS, I wouldn't even bother though.

Please share your result! It's always a good excercise ;) 

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Sadly I can't get anywhere near 5 minute subs. I'm untracked for the time being so it's literally whatever I can get at the FL I'm using...which ain't much. I know I've seen one somewhere recently shot at 40mm that included M45 as well which was taken from the centre of Belgium, which is what prompted me to give it a go myself. For the life of me though I can't find the post (think it was in one of the AP groups on FB) and find out exactly what they were using ?

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I think you'll struggle here I'm afraid. I just about managed to pick up the California nebula with an unmodded camera in this mosaic, but this was a (single) 4 minute exposure at f2.8 from a dark site. Without tracking you'll struggle to overcome the read noise from the camera. M31, M45 and M42 would be more suitable targets for your equipment.

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Nice mosaic ?

31, 42 and 45 I've had a go at with not bad results. Just reprocessing 42 atm as I foolishly forgot to add the darks and offsets (it was late and I was out of coffee) 

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Quite a close crop from 300mm, not even sure how many images, but it was 1.6 second exposures. Thinking of bring it down to 200mm and slightly longer and dropping the ISO down (this was 5000 under city conditions) Obviously some of the stars are blown and there's definitely not as much nebula as I'd like, all of which I'm hoping will improve once I can get further out into the middle of nowhere with no moon (was 3/4 full when I did this)

LRM_EXPORT_20171008_103605.jpg

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Hi there 

There are a few struggles here. First of all the camera is not modified and the NGC 1499 is mainly H Alpha. It's does depend how much the H Alpha is cut off in your camera though. 

Secondly the moon! :) You need like others have said the CLS filter. It's always still a struggle with the moon out. 

Either way enjoy yourself 

Gerry 

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Hiya, is there any way of finding out how much the D5300 cuts out? I've tried the usual route (ie Google) but not come across anything yet. 

If I understand correctly, H alpha is the red? As it's my own body and used a lot during daylight as well, I'm obviously loathe to have it modded so a filter is looking good. I'm assuming I'd need one for each lens I use? 

TIA, u guys are great. Had a couple of quick skims thru again this morning and loving a lot of the images I see. One day, when my bank manager decides he loves me again....?

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I think it would be easier to just get a secondhand modified Canon which you could probably get for 200 look at the for sale items by other members. 

If you modify your camera it's at least 100 quid or double depending on where you do it and I'm not sure it has all the compatibility that Canon has. Big advice coming up. Don't buy a unmodded Canon thinking you will do it yourself unless your REALLY handy. I did mine myself 2 weeks ago and I can tell you it's mega fiddly. 

Do yourself a big favour and buy a secondhand Canon 450d already modified. Loads out there. 

Here is a picture (very bad as I only got 4 minutes of the NGC 4000) but before the modification I could BARELY see it. 

IMG_4460.thumb.JPG.7f902c8ba5c26fd1e9f214f61c676355.JPG

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That's a bad image??? What does a good one look like??? That's amazing!! And is one of the things that inspires me to keep going with this, even if modding and scopes is further down the line for me <3

I'm not very handy at stuff so that advice on buying a used one already modded is gratefully received.

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I dunno a 1000D I found easy to mod - about 20 minutes from start to finish (after getting an appropriate screwdriver, quality philips #0) using a super easy step by step guide from Gary Honis... there's even a video to go with the text guide.  I mean for £70 odd quid you get a decent enough astro-camera which is cheap enough to be dedicated.

 

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4 hours ago, John78 said:

I dunno a 1000D I found easy to mod - about 20 minutes from start to finish (after getting an appropriate screwdriver, quality philips #0) using a super easy step by step guide from Gary Honis... there's even a video to go with the text guide.  I mean for £70 odd quid you get a decent enough astro-camera which is cheap enough to be dedicated.

 

I'm glad yours was easy I have a Canon 550d and also followed the same guide. 6 hours. I guess they are not all the same :) mine I had to use a rubber set of tweezers that needed to be very fine. Good fun though lol

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8 hours ago, Maxrayne said:

That's a bad image??? What does a good one look like??? That's amazing!! And is one of the things that inspires me to keep going with this, even if modding and scopes is further down the line for me <3

I'm not very handy at stuff so that advice on buying a used one already modded is gratefully received.

Oh yes there are problems there for those who know where to look :) later you'll be just as critical as me at your own photos. 

Buy a second hand Canon you can either go full spectrum (which is what I have) or one with a replaced filter which uses the spectrum useful for astrophotography 

Gerry

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Ngc 1499, California nebula with an unmodified pentax dslr on an eq3 mount

http://www.astrobin.com/237789/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce=

Success or failure with an unmodded camera depend very much on local conditions and make and model of camera used. I was fortunate enough that my camera picks up a decent amount of Ha, as compared to Canon cameras. But it's also a lot noisier. In retrospect, I should have used at least 50 subs, and not 17. Longer integration time = lower noise.

NA neb with the same, unmodded camera.

 

Edited by wimvb

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3 hours ago, wimvb said:

Ngc 1499, California nebula with an unmodified pentax dslr on an eq3 mount

http://www.astrobin.com/237789/?image_list_page=2&nc=&nce=

 

Success or failure with an unmodded camera depend very much on local conditions and make and model of camera used. I was fortunate enough that my camera picks up a decent amount of Ha, as compared to Canon cameras. But it's also a lot noisier. In retrospect, I should have used at least 50 subs, and not 17. Longer integration time = lower noise.

NA neb with the same, unmodded camera.

It is a pity that Canon stopped producing their factory modified (Ha sensitive) cameras (the 20Da and subsequently 60Da). I have a 60Da and I love it (very low in noise) so I was looking for a second one to run side by side, thinking they would be a bargain used. But I now found out that the used ones are almost never offered and very expensive. Looking today there were only two 60Da offered on ebay.com and both were around 1500 USD, which is 50% more than I payed new for mine three years ago. So a factory modified Canon is at least not the way to go right now if you are on a budget.

I just went for a standard 60D for ca 350 USD as a second DSLR. Under some protest I have previously tried my wife's 70D on AP and I was quite surprised of its Ha sensitivity and assume the 60D will be similar. Here is what my Samyang 135 f/2 grabbed of NGC7822 during an hour (60 x 1 min) with that 70D. Quite a lot of Ha there. So if you go for a 60D or 70D you may not need it modified:

IMG9572-9653 PS10+ED127dataPS1sign.jpg

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