QHY10 OR QHY8L?

[ebdons]

Hi all, just ordered a QHY8L from MA, but out of stock for  a few weeks , bernard at MA, has offered an alternative cam for £200 extra, the QHY10, the specs look very similar, and need to know what best is with various scopes, edt80, 8" f4 newt, 8" meade sct. all the best Tony

[ebdons]

Hi all, just checked the QHY8L which does have some imagers giving it the thumbs up, but not much info about the QHY10, does anybody use one on here? all the best Tony

[HunterHarling]

I have the QHY 10 and it is really good. Low noise, high sensitivity, deep full well capacity, everything you would want from a ccd. The two are very similar be I chose the 10 because it had smaller pixels and deeper full well capacity.

Use this to calculate the arc second per pixel of your telescopes, it should be between 1 arc second per pixel and 3 arc seconds per pixel: 

 (   Pixel Size   /   Telescope Focal Length   )   X 206.265

Both cameras support binning so you can bin 2x2 or 4x4 to get a reasonable pixel scale.

[Adam J]

Neither I would push for with the QHY168c for an OSC at near that price point. I have been seeing superior images from it in comparison to both of those cameras.

[ebdons]

Hi Hunter, thx for the quick reply, gonna go with the QHY10,  which also has progressive scan which gives it an edge as well, slightly wider FOV  too, Bernard at MA is doing quite a good deal, £100 less than his normal price and still £300 cheaper than all other uk suppliers. all the best Tony

[ebdons]

Hi Adam, did look at the 168c, but discounted that as it had  a CMOS sensor, unless the latest CMOS  is  superior, I did have poor images from a inova  years back so was put off them , but the 168c does produce some great images, would have been happy with the 8L  but  this 10 came up , I still have my 825 trius, which is just sitting around waiting for this weather to play ball!. all the best Tony

[Adam J]

Hey no problem its your money and you have to be comfortable with your purchase. But I would not discount it just because its a CMOS the latest ones are indeed different beasts to their predecessors.

[simmo39]

Hi. I have e just got a QHY 10. I'm still learning the ropes with it and have found it hard to adjust from  a DLSR but as far as  noise it's v good and the few tests I have done when everything is right it looks brilliant. Just having  problems getting it all rights every time. Lol

[ebdons]

Hi, been using 825 trius mono with filter wheel, but weather so bad that it takes too long to do LRGB, so will give  this OSC a go, tried with inova cmos no joy, have an old SXM7C and guider which will have to go to fund this new cam, although be lucky to get much for it now.LOL. will try this QHY10 and new QHY5ii-mono guider and , still learning like you. clear skies please God! all the best Tony

[ebdons]

Hi new cam delivered, but problem with usb disconnecting cam every 30 secs, I'm on win8 64 bit, checked the usual culprits  usb leads etc, I have usb 2.0 and 3.0 and powered usb 3.0,is win 8 the problem? hope somebody can help. all the best Tony

[HunterHarling]

The camera is usb 2 powered... I use Windows10 so maybe you should update the computer? Also when you download the driver you must plug the camera in to the computer when you launch the extracted driver.

[ebdons]

Hi, thx for the quick reply, done everything by the book, I assumed this cam would work with win 8.1 64 bit, hope this cam isn't a dud, it didn't come with the ccd driver disc. all the best Tony

[ebdons]

Hi , shut down pc removed all leads waited 5 sec before rebooting, reconnected and left it running for 20 mins on ezecap, no disconnect, will try stark labs later which I use all the time to see what happens. ok thanks for your help. Tony

[ebdons]

Hi all, without giving a running commentary on my issue, have tried again to keep  the camera from usb disconnect, managed to get 80 mins on ezecap before disconnect, I have a steel pier which is magnetic, and I had the power box cable tied to the steel pier, just tried a hunch thinking the power box has no shielding on the rear part, if I remove box and leave loose 80 mins before  usb disconnects, or 12 mins with it attached, very odd, never had this issue with any other cam, sx orion inova and others, so don't know the full answer yet unless I shield the power box with lead sheet? stark labs will work for 1 sec before crashing and usb disconnects. also tried new usb leads with no difference, my obsy is  a metal skinned building  so this could also be upsetting my systems. will keep you posted. all the best Tony 

[HunterHarling]

Is the green led light on the back of the ccd flashing? If not there could be something wrong with the driver. Also if you have Norton antivirus it will delete the ccd driver. Maybe try attaching the clamp that came with the ccd to hold the usb and power cord in place? 

Attached is an image of the ccd with clap installed.

[ebdons]

Hi Hunter, thanks for the quick reply, always had the green light working and have done everything by the book, have found that placing the control box 1 inch away from the steel pier works, when I had it placed against the pier it  disconnected the usb, the fan dropped in speed just before the disconnect,  then it would reconnect with base driver activated, then disconnect with usb failure, have had it running  and taking 1 sec exp now for 1 hr and so far okay, Dion from AS mentioned about the  trouble he had with the PS and QHY8L which he sorted by using a dedicated PS for 1 cam, but still a mystery to me why my steel pier would interfere with the DC201 control box, maybe someone on here can explain whether magnetic "energy" can disrupt a unshielded component. all the best Tony.

[HunterHarling]

How's it going? Any images yet?

[ebdons]

 Hi Hunter,  only this of  NGC2244which was taken with full moon nearby in the week and 94% dew in sky, dew so bad that QHY5L-II mono kept losing stars with phd and phd2! so tracking went AWOL. very poor image and quite ashamed!, but wanted to test on  an object which was low in the sky and with moon nearby. I will get better. Tony

      

                    EDT80, FIELD FLATTENER 1.0, 3X5 MIN LIGHT,1X5 MIN DARK  ASTRONOMIK UHC AND SEPARATE IR CUT, BASIC RAW IMAGE ETC.                                                         

[Adam J]

55 minutes ago, ebdons said:

 Hi Hunter,  only this of  NGC2244which was taken with full moon nearby in the week and 94% dew in sky, dew so bad that QHY5L-II mono kept losing stars with phd and phd2! so tracking went AWOL. very poor image and quite ashamed!, but wanted to test on  an object which was low in the sky and with moon nearby. I will get better. Tony

      

                    EDT80, FIELD FLATTENER 1.0, 3X5 MIN LIGHT,1X5 MIN DARK  ASTRONOMIK UHC AND SEPARATE IR CUT, BASIC RAW IMAGE ETC.                                                         

huum this looks like you have left the settings on DSS on mono fits as opposed to de-brayering the image via the correct RGB matrix. It will look much better if you re-process it as a color image.

I might be concerned myself if I saw such small and dark dust bunnies on my images as that indicates that the dust is on the front of the sensor itself as opposed to the outside of the camera or filters etc. Probably worth investigating as I am unsure how easy it is to open the sensor window up for cleaning. Honestly if it turned out to be on the actual sensor on a new camera I would be sending it back.

[ebdons]

Hi, after waiting for the weather to give me a chance to test again, looks like the dirt dust is on the sensor, very poor image again and also did colour image and still obvious dust on the right side middle to bottom so applied some flat and bias frames on M31 in mono setting and still there so dropped a line to Bernard at MA to see what can/will be done. all the best Tony. 

[John78]

You bought a brand new camera an it had all that "dust" on it?  That's not right.

[ebdons]

Hi sir, agree with you about the dust issue, here's the reply from MA, hopefully get something done. all the best Tony 

Hi Tony,

 

All sensors have / get dust or debris on them, it’s a fact of life, and flats should always compensate for that.

Having said that, if it bothers you, it should be possible to take off the front and clean the sensor.

I’ll check with QHY as to what they’re using as a sealant these days, for the front section of the camera, so we can gain entry.

 

Regards

 

Bernard

 

Bernard Karpinski

Modern Astronomy

 

[John78]

You what 

 I'd be sending it back, distance selling regs, if nothing else - I mean that "dust" is so black its got to be on the sensor - not in your image train - and its not a fact of life either, I can't believe QHY would let that through their QC checks.

 

This is a flat from an 8 year old 1000D that gets badly treated - the one major dust bunny was caused by me, its on the underside of the remaining filter after a home astromod.

[newbie alert]

I would assume the camera sensor and camera to be assembled in a dust free environment..may as well of bought a second hand one and taken a chance.. not a full price brand new one..

My skyris was in a sealed metallic type bag..once the seal was broken it's yours

[ebdons]

Hi All, see what gets sorted, I had a choice of QHY8L or this QHY10 and was looking at opticstar DS-616C XL, but went with qhyccd because of the backup and opinions online which were favourable, the  opticstar  DS616C XL, had very little  reviews, and this QHY10 was offered at a cheaper price than normal so maybe I should have been wary of the price reduction. live and learn. Tony