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Bit of a lurker here but time for a first post as I've scoured every corner of the internet and cannot find the exact info I'm after.
My style of shooting is more landscape astrophotography over deep space and I really want to be able to photograph Orion using a wide angle lens (eg. Samyang 24mm) on either a Canon 6D or a Sony A7SII and pick up the nebulosity.
I have a tracking mount (Star Adventurer Mini) and am familiar with stacking images. I was wondering if a light pollution filter would help my cause here as I've read they can help boost nebulosity.
Started to get my head in a twist with all the various filters and different types of nebulosity. I really don't want to modify either camera as I use them both for daytime landscape work too.
The Samyang 24mm has a 77mm thread on the front, would something like a Hoya Red Intensifier be beneficial to my aims? Is there a better front threaded filter available for what I want? Or is a clip-in filter better?
Any help much appreciated,
Having another crack at Andromeda tonight, my last chance before the weekend, and I've got opportunity to be in a dark skies pretty much (going by local light pollution data maps.)
I've noticed that my last couple of attempts I've totally blown the core. Trying to find the optimal ISO to shoot it at as I've been doing 10000 and 12800 in heavy light pollution.
Working with a Nikon d5300 at 200mm and f / 4.8, which I know is far from ideal but for now that's the kit I have to work with. Doing 2 second exposures with darks and offsets.
Any quick advice would be much appreciated 😁
My image of Omega Centauri ( NGC 5139 ) has been published as the NASA APOD for the 11th of July 2017
Link to full size image on NASA site ( warning quite large - 4620 x 3720 )
Link to discussion of image on asterisk.apod.com
( credit apod.nasa.gov )
( full size image - 4620 x 3720 )
Link to original post for this image back on the 10th of June
Hi everybody!! Just joined after lurking for a year.
I have done the filter removal as instructed by Gary Honis and was satisfied with the results. Only one thing I'm wanting to learn and that's how to do a cold finger mod on my canon 1000d.
I have found some links, but mostly any instructions I've found were outdated and removed from the web, so it's been difficult to find a mod to my liking with detailed step by step and supply list.
One of my main concerns is that I still want to use the side of my camera that has usb and the input for my intervalometer (currently unguided with no laptop).
I can do without live view as long as I can still connect the dslr to my phone on dslr controller for a bigger more comfortable live view.
Anyways I really need help in the right instructions to get this done. Any links, videos, or experienced instructions would be a big help and I would be very thankful for.
I'd also like to add that I would like to go light weight on the mod, so i don't have much trouble balancing the es 80mm triplet on an Orion sirius.
Trying my best at a budget to defeat the Texas summer.
I´ve had a break from astrophotography. I lost all lust for it during last winter after my father suddenly passed away. Really getting the lust for AP back now and while waiting for the dark nights to return I reprocessed my M42. This is one of the photos I will use for an upcoming exhibition I´m participating in.
I really think this was in improvement compared to my latest version. Tighter, less fuzzy stars, better colours.
28*120 + 39*180 + 27*300 seconds of RGB
23*600 + 1*900 seconds of HA (12 nm filter)
5*10 + 12*6 seconds for the brightest area
All in all 9+ hours of exposure. This is a tricky part of the sky since it never rises above 26 degrees above the horizon and I have some houses and minor LP in that direction.
I processed the HA separately and blended it in at 10% opacity with the red channel and as a luminosity layer at 15% opacity. Pixinsight and Photoshop used. At first I wanted to push it further but I decided to keep it just a little bit more subtle.
Canon EOS 1100D (modded)
Canon EF 300/4L lens
HEQ5 Pro Synscan