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Suggestions for Solar Imaging with Lunt LS50THa B600


DIGITALid

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Hello,

This is my first post and I need some help and suggestions if you all would be so kind as to provide your much more experienced input. 

I just received my Lunt LS50THa with the B600 blocking filter.  I have some eyepieces that I use with my Orion Dob but after some initial (kind of disappointing) viewing I think I may need to invest or try some other items. My goal is to capture some images I can share with my elementary school age son that is showing interest in astronomy.  (AKA nothing massively pro but still something I can be proud of.)

So three things;

  1. I need a tripod and mount solution that won't break the bank.  The Lunt connects to my photography tripod that can easily hold the 6 lb scope but movement/tracking is a pain.  Does anyone have any suggestions for a good and relatively inexpensive tripod/mount that can be used with my small scope?  Or perhaps an adapter that I can use to hold a good mount and have more precise control and still be able to rest it on my photography tripod?
  2. I took some lazy pictures just with my iPhone against the eyepiece and I kept getting some concentric circles overlaying the image that are really obtrusive. Any suggestions for alternative eyepieces that will improve both imaging/viewing? I've been able to take some decent moon shots this way without those strange circles.  (The circles are NOT visible just viewing with your eyes.)  It almost looks like when you point a camera at a television.
  3. Filters?  I have a neutral density filter that I use to view the moon.  Would that help or hinder viewing/imaging solar filaments?  Should I use a color filter to help bring out those details?

Thank you in advance for your help.

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1) I use a geared head on my tripod, but a motorised mount would keep the sun centred in the eyepiece but more £££

2) I don't think different eyepieces will help. You could invest in a cheap webcam and use this to capture images or even connect a DSLR to the focuser (is it the helical focuser) but see point 1) as you would maybe need a motorised mount

3) The scope is filtered and only lets 656.28nm wavelength of light through so you should be using any other filters with it 

 

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Thanks for the responses!

1. Great that gives me a great point to start searching.  I do think a gearhead is a better solution for now.  I'm still recovering from that initial purchase price of the scope...:shocked:

2. It is the helical focuser I did not get the soft touch upgrade.  I was considering one of the orion steadymount adapters to connect my Phone or Canon G9X.  So we can connect the camera to the focuser without the filter? I thought we were never supposed to use it without that?

3. Perfect thank you for your explanation.  I was hoping maybe I could slightly improve the contrast a bit.

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  • 2 years later...

I have the same solsrscope and had exactly same manual tracking issues.  Problem is the sun is 93 million miles sway and the earth does not have to move much at all ( a few seconds only) for the sun to drift off view.  I started using my computerised go to mount for much better results.  yes more money and I bought also a dovetail mount from online supplier "Agnea" specofically for lunt ( 60 dollar).  came with screws and all.  works a treat to mount lunt on go to!  if you do not align the mount with something like Startracker, you will of course always and often have to realign the sun in the viewing field ( I mean....often)  So tracking is definitely a lot less stressful.  The issue with concentric rings, still looking into this myself.  Think it has to do with lack of focus and finding the correct extension tube length to ensure image from solarscope remains focused on the  image sensor of the camera.  Maybe someone else can help us with that.  As you know, never remove any filters from ypur solarscope or you will damage your eyes, equipment or start a fire

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The concentric rings are referred to as "newton rings" and are widely experienced, but curable.

https://brierleyhillsolar.blogspot.com/2016/11/a-review-of-solutions-to-newtons-rings.html

 

I used a 2nd hand eq1mfor a while, that only tracked in RA,  which worked reasonably OK.

No extra filters required, unless you fancy double stacking your scope 🙂

Edited by Pete Presland
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  • 2 months later...

Whooo this original thread goes back to 2017!!

Richard,

The Newton Rings are caused by interference reflections within the camera chip cover plate and construction. Some cameras suffer more than others!

Double stacking can make Newton Rings worse!

I also find that some Barlows/ Powermates show them worse than others.

The only solution I've found it to fit a T2 tilter in front of the camera. I use the ZWO version on both my ASI 1600 and ASI 174.

Edited by Merlin66
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