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Tak FC-100 - a few questions :)


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Thank you all for excellent advice, I have the feeling that SGL and CN members have literally an instant answer to almost ever question in the hobby.

I am trying to resist the temptation...but I feel weak. I have this DC/DF dilemma dancing in my head for a couple of weeks already. 

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45 minutes ago, Piero said:

 

Having tried the Tak clamshell many times, I don't see the single bolt as a potential issue at all. The telescope does not slide (unless one intentionally untightens the bolt), and the clamshell does not "open up" easily either. Personally, I don't see any reason to panic about the Tak clamshell. It's really well made. 

I agree - the DL one is a bit longer than the F/7.4's and is as solid as a rock. Even if the screw fitting is loose or unfastened the clamp tends to stay shut around the tube until you actually open it up deliberately.

It isn't mandatory though and tube rings are an option but not that easy to source - the Tak FC scopes have a 95mm diameter tube which is a little bit "non-standard" :rolleyes2:

Cue next question: How come a 100mm aperture scope has a 95mm diameter tube ? - well the objective is set some way up the dew shield so the light cone has narrowed a bit by the time it gets to the narrower part of the tube :smiley:

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48 minutes ago, BGazing said:

Btw @Piero, have you tried tracking planets with AyoII? 

Not yet, my AYOII is 1 month old! I've observed with it at high magnification though, and tracking was dead easy in my opinion.

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55 minutes ago, Piero said:

Not yet, my AYOII is 1 month old! I've observed with it at high magnification though, and tracking was dead easy in my opinion.

Sounds like UNI18/19 and Ayo II are rock solid for high magnification. 

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1 hour ago, BGazing said:

Sounds like UNI18/19 and Ayo II are rock solid for high magnification. 

That was my aim: building a system able to support both high magnifications and wide field views, with my set of 2" eyepieces. :) 

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Having re-read it from the beginning I am still undecided, DC or DF. :happy7: Had there been only one on offer, it would be easy. Having choice is hard, I remember how easy it was going shopping in socialism - you buy what is on the shelf. Nowadays its pure torture...

DF is heavier, but in order to actually use its 2 in capability, one has to insert additional weight in shape of the 2 in diagonal. 

Pan 24 gives 30x and 2.2 deg, and that is sufficient for pretty much everything except the whole Veil, but still hefty 3.5 exit pupil for the filters. Cannot see situations where I would go wider, and I can always mount Borg 71 on the side for even wider views, if needed. My 2 in EPs are also-runs (Hyp31, Aero 40) and would not do Tak optics justice. The rest of my lineup are T6s and ES82 EPs and Delos, surely DC can achieve focus with them? What flummoxes me from all the input in this and other threads is that going DF or FTF route does not necessarily prevent problems, as extenders might be needed. :help:

Zeroed in on UNI 18 (double clamps and all) and Ayo II, though. If I need tracking for planets at stupid mags I can always use Evo mount, planets are low.

Edited by BGazing
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@BGazing 

What you said is true! :)  My 2" eyepieces are 35 Pan, Zeiss zoom, and Docter (which natively works in 1.25", but I use an additional adapter with it). The latter two are used with the Baader VIP in 2" mode. If you will only use 1.25" eyepieces, you could get the DC now and in case you decide to move to 2" in the future, you could update the focuser with an FT one.  Just an idea. 

 

I forgot to say one thing about the finder. I could attach my TV-60 to the other arm of the AYOII, and that would be a 4.3 deg FOV finder. I haven't yet tried this though. :) 

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On 18/01/2018 at 14:54, John said:

I agree - the DL one is a bit longer than the F/7.4's and is as solid as a rock. Even if the screw fitting is loose or unfastened the clamp tends to stay shut around the tube until you actually open it up deliberately.

It isn't mandatory though and tube rings are an option but not that easy to source - the Tak FC scopes have a 95mm diameter tube which is a little bit "non-standard" :rolleyes2:

Cue next question: How come a 100mm aperture scope has a 95mm diameter tube ? - well the objective is set some way up the dew shield so the light cone has narrowed a bit by the time it gets to the narrower part of the tube :smiley:

Ian King offers 95mm Parallax rings as an option to the clam, presumably a buyer would use an ordinary dovetail bar. 

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2 hours ago, 25585 said:

Ian King offers 95mm Parallax rings as an option to the clam, presumably a buyer would use an ordinary dovetail bar. 

There are also the K-astec tube rings from Japan. Users on CN speak highly of them, and they are a lot sleeker (and presumably lighter) than the Parallax rings. That’s what I figured I’d get when I considered an FC100. 

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3 hours ago, 25585 said:

Ian King offers 95mm Parallax rings as an option to the clam, presumably a buyer would use an ordinary dovetail bar. 

That may not quite be the case. I bought a DC from Ian King 2 weeks ago. As an alternative to the Tak clamshell (there was a price difference) he supplied 95 mm tube rings with it that don't look like anything on the Parallax website. Check out the chunky knobs! He described them as CNC rings made in the UK, though it's always possible I wasn't paying attention. There's no manufacturer's name or logo on them. They seem fine to me - they hold the tube nicely, and they're easy to loosen and tighten when balancing. (Photo inserted, but never tried uploading one before so who knows if I got it right...)

 

A5847AA4-AEFA-432C-B8B2-1104C1096F9E.jpeg

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Who does use an Astrozap dewshield with this scope? I was thinking one for stray light actually... 

My Russian Monk hood works so well, that I believe the telescope might be happy with its own hood! :) 

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38 minutes ago, pystab said:

That may not quite be the case. I bought a DC from Ian King 2 weeks ago. As an alternative to the Tak clamshell (there was a price difference) he supplied 95 mm tube rings with it that don't look like anything on the Parallax website. Check out the chunky knobs! He described them as CNC rings made in the UK, though it's always possible I wasn't paying attention. There's no manufacturer's name or logo on them. They seem fine to me - they hold the tube nicely, and they're easy to loosen and tighten when balancing. (Photo inserted, but never tried uploading one before so who knows if I got it right...)

 

A5847AA4-AEFA-432C-B8B2-1104C1096F9E.jpeg

They look exactly like the CNC tube rings I used to use on my Vixen ED102. They were branded TMB but I've seen them with other brandings on as well. I'm not convinced that they are made in the UK though :icon_scratch:

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45 minutes ago, pystab said:

That may not quite be the case. I bought a DC from Ian King 2 weeks ago. As an alternative to the Tak clamshell (there was a price difference) he supplied 95 mm tube rings with it that don't look like anything on the Parallax website. Check out the chunky knobs! He described them as CNC rings made in the UK, though it's always possible I wasn't paying attention. There's no manufacturer's name or logo on them. They seem fine to me - they hold the tube nicely, and they're easy to loosen and tighten when balancing. (Photo inserted, but never tried uploading one before so who knows if I got it right...)

 

A5847AA4-AEFA-432C-B8B2-1104C1096F9E.jpeg

They look good. Never heard of CNC before.

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They look like the rings I have with mine. As I recall they were a cheaper option but seem very good to me.

I have recently bought a heated Astrozap dewshield for my scope. Had to check with them which was best to buy and they recommended the AZ-804 and it fits very well. I have even thought of taking it instead of the fixed one if traveling.

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9 minutes ago, Stu said:

They look like the rings I have with mine. As I recall they were a cheaper option but seem very good to me.

I have recently bought a heated Astrozap dewshield for my scope. Had to check with them which was best to buy and they recommended the AZ-804 and it fits very well. I have even thought of taking it instead of the fixed one if traveling.

Stu, can you get a screw on lens cap to go on the hood threads, if you remove your metal hood? 

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6 hours ago, Piero said:

I forgot to say one thing about the finder. I could attach my TV-60 to the other arm of the AYOII, and that would be a 4.3 deg FOV finder. I haven't yet tried this though. :) 

I have... :happy11: I don't recommend it, though; far too much fun. :p

DSC_1226.thumb.JPG.b7622773db8f02c99a8f8ad17cd40a1b.JPG

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33 minutes ago, iPeace said:

I have... :happy11: I don't recommend it, though; far too much fun. :p

DSC_1226.thumb.JPG.b7622773db8f02c99a8f8ad17cd40a1b.JPG

Those are great set ups Mike, have done similar things many times with little Taks and larger Taks, plus numerous other variations of widefield and higher power. Great fun :) 

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47 minutes ago, 25585 said:

Stu, can you get a screw on lens cap to go on the hood threads, if you remove your metal hood? 

Not a screw on cap, but it should be possible to find a push fit cover for the lens cell.

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10 hours ago, iPeace said:

I have... :happy11: I don't recommend it, though; far too much fun. :p

DSC_1226.thumb.JPG.b7622773db8f02c99a8f8ad17cd40a1b.JPG

LOL, a 60mm finder for a 70mm scope. :)

By the way, has anyone used a normal, non-Zeiss Baader prism in f7.4? Or are you sticking to the dielectrics/aluminium?

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34 minutes ago, BGazing said:

LOL, a 60mm finder for a 70mm scope. :)

By the way, has anyone used a normal, non-Zeiss Baader prism in f7.4? Or are you sticking to the dielectrics/aluminium?

Some use the Tak 1.25" prism with success. I use the Baader T2 Zeiss prism and it's excellent. I've also used Astro Physics and Tele Vue 2" dielectric diagonals and they worked well too. I've read that the non-Zeiss Baader T2 is also a very good prism diagonal.

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1 hour ago, BGazing said:

LOL, a 60mm finder for a 70mm scope. :)

By the way, has anyone used a normal, non-Zeiss Baader prism in f7.4? Or are you sticking to the dielectrics/aluminium?

I use the Baader BBHS silver mirror diagonal and this also works very well.

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