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Piero

Tak FC-100 - a few questions :)

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3 hours ago, Piero said:

I had a second solar observation.. Crikey! The Tak really takes high magnification!

I revisited the sunspot 12670. At 308x (and well above!), a few interesting details of the black spot were distinct. To the left side (refractor view), an nearly horizontal cut was visible. This first headed to the centre and then vertically down for a bit. At 308x only the horizontal segment was visible, whereas the vertical segment appeared as an unclear brighter dot. The two didn't appear connected. Above 308x during those minutes when the wind ceased completely, this vertical cut emerged like a short channel about as large as 1/4 of the horizontal cut. They both had similar lengths. Lines on the penumbra region and granulation were visible at 308x and higher mags, easily.  

Cracking views for you then Piero! :) I really do think it is only when you really push things that the real differences show up. Have you tried binoviewing on the sun yet?

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16 minutes ago, Stu said:

Cracking views for you then Piero! :) I really do think it is only when you really push things that the real differences show up. Have you tried binoviewing on the sun yet?

Thanks Stu! :) No, I haven't tried binoviewing. Maybe one day I will. Need to sell some unused glass first, though! :icon_biggrin: 

Which targets do you usually observe with your binos?

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Your Tak with binoviewer and a high Spring Moon will blow your mind Piero. Jupiter, Venus and Mars are amazing! 

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2 hours ago, mikeDnight said:

Your Tak with binoviewer and a high Spring Moon will blow your mind Piero. Jupiter, Venus and Mars are amazing! 

:)  A step at a time. First I need some time to get acquainted with this telescope, mount, and my eyepieces using this telescope.  We'll see in the future. 

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19 hours ago, Piero said:

Which targets do you usually observe with your binos?

Almost exclusively solar observing Piero, mainly white light but also Ha. It really helps reduce the impact of floaters at high power and is more relaxing I find.

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As I love observing the Sun, here is another update, which works fabulously! :icon_biggrin:

tak100_5.thumb.jpg.75f974e1e0ec46520a3e88a93739a9b1.jpg

tak100_6.thumb.jpg.4367c5003a09f7a4ea52d3964597ce9c.jpg

tak100_7.thumb.jpg.57c2afd9eccff6180c37e2332b02ff9f.jpg

tak100_8.thumb.jpg.548ef337e187110a76c95a5355d6a012.jpg

Edited by Piero
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Very nice Piero !

Mind you don't poke yourself in the eye with the AZ-4 panning handle ! - I managed to do that at night once - after than I used the mount without the handle ...... :rolleyes2:

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Thank you John! :icon_biggrin:  Getting a thick handle like that in the eye must not be pleasant! If I remember correctly from one of your posts, you observe with your left eye, right? If so, at least you didn't hit the good one! I'll pay extra care! 

Thinking about it :icon_scratch:, I always hold the handle. Dunno..:dontknow: This gives me certainty about the telescope angle and slow motion accuracy. 

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Yes, I'm a leftie :icon_blackeye:

(knew that smiley would come in useful one day !)

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Hi all, I am new to the site and to star gazing !  Just received my TAC 100DF and TAK 2" diagonal (still awaiting the mount and tripod-on the way). I have been trying to find how to attach filters for the scope? I am thinking of getting the Baader solar film , for solar watching, in the beginning. What adapters do I need for "light pollution" and moon filter and DSO viewing.  Thanks for your help

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Hi @Shopaholic and welcome on SGL!

You can make a support for holding the Baader Film or buy one from FLO. This is placed in front of the telescope objective.

I don't use a Moon filter as I tend to observe the moon when it is not full. The best solution to defeat light pollution is to go under a darker sky. There are filters to improve the views of emission nebulae but these work much better under dark skies and can have little effect under severe LP skies. Unfortunately there isn't such a thing like a filter to view galaxies. 

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Welcome from me as well ! :icon_biggrin:

Like Piero, I don't use a moon filter with my Tak FC-100 DL. For nebulae I use either the Lumicon O-III or the Omega DM NBP filters but most often I go "filter free" for nighttime viewing.

For the Sun I use a Lunt 1.25" Herschel Wedge which works excellently:

 

taksolar01.JPG

taksolar02.JPG

Edited by John
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Great setup John! Your Tak looks great on your wood tripod! 

 

@Shopaholic

To add more about solar filters, I also use a solar wedge, which is placed instead of the diagonal. I have both the 2" Baader and the 1.25" Lunt Herschel wedges. They work very well, particularly with an additional Baader Solar Continuum filter. See few posts above for pictures. :) 

Regarding filters for nebulae, I use what John uses. Both of us own the old version of Lumicon OIII. The last version seems to have a wider band, so it will be less effective. The Astronomik OIII can be an alternative. An OIII filter that works well, should pass two OIII lines (501 and 496) with transmission higher than 90%. The whole transmitted band should be tight, about 12-13nm, hence the reason why these are called line filters. 

 

Edited by Piero
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Hi shopaholic,

I use a UHC nebula filter on occasion as you can still see the surrounding stars, where as a Olll will block out all but the brightest stars in a 100mm scope. You may find though that the FC100D shows you many brighter DSO's very well, even without a filter. Congratulations on choosing a terrific scope! :icon_biggrin:

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And here the last set up after upgrading the mount and tripod! :)  It's like moving an excellent dobson! As far as I could tell, vibration damping was a fraction of a second even when the column was extended.

The last thing I want to add is two M8 bolts at each end of the dovetail as additional safety measure (as Stu suggested in another thread - great advise!). These can also be used to hang weights for balancing the telescope when swapping eyepieces.

 

tak100_ayo2_uni19_5.thumb.jpg.b50537ffd24bbea90356dff9d2b4d2ae.jpg tak100_ayo2_uni19_4.thumb.jpg.7eea4cd7227b824261329f271ea560fe.jpg

Edited by Piero
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On 27/12/2017 at 23:47, Piero said:

And here the last set up after upgrading the mount and tripod! :)  It's like moving an excellent dobson! As far as I could tell, vibration damping was a fraction of a second even when the column was extended.

The last thing I want to add is an M6 bolt on the top of the dovetail as additional safety measure (as Stu suggested in another thread - great advise!)

tak100_ayo2_uni19_5.thumb.jpg.b50537ffd24bbea90356dff9d2b4d2ae.jpg 

Looks splendid, except for that chair - they look good in theory and then just desintegrate. :) Try Astrostuhl from Beat at AOK, its splendid.

I have a couple of questions as Tak brand seems to be a bit cryptic and the discussion on this and other threads is above my stations.

I have been looking and DC and DF  and am trying to discern the exact differences.

DC can be used in 2in mode, but it requires adapters. Any compromises associated with ir, as opposed to 2in out of the box DF solution? Does it vignette? What about 2in filters?

Microfocusing is either Tak solution or FTF. FTF shorthens light path and some EPs do not focus and binos have to be used with a barlow. (Note: I do not use binos but am trying to be futureproof). Have I missed anything? Which solution is lighter? Shorter?

Finally, @Piero which mount did you choose and how does it perform. I am lookint at AYO paired up with Berlebach Report, not sure if it fits the bill.

Just to clarify, I am interested in visual only.

Edited by BGazing
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19 minutes ago, BGazing said:

Looks splendid, except for that chair - they look good in theory and then just desintegrate. :) Try Astrostuhl from Beat at AOK, its splendid.

I have a couple of questions as Tak brand seems to be a bit cryptic and the discussion on this and other threads is above my stations.

I have been looking and DC and DF  and am trying to discern the exact differences.

DC can be used in 2in mode, but it requires adapters. Any compromises associated with ir, as opposed to 2in out of the box DF solution? Does it vignette? What about 2in filters?

Microfocusing is either Tak solution or FTF. FTF shorthens light path and some EPs do not focus and binos have to be used with a barlow. (Note: I do not use binos but am trying to be futureproof). Have I missed anything? Which solution is lighter? Shorter?

Finally, @Piero which mount did you choose and how does it perform. I am lookint at AYO paired up with Berlebach Report, not sure if it fits the bill.

Just to clarify, I am interested in visual only.

 

Thanks for the advice about the chair. That was a temporary purchase until I figured out which tripod to get. My current tripod has a central column (see photo) so I don't need an adjustable chair. When that camping chair will come to an end, I will either use a normal chair or simply observe standing (which is my preferred way of observing).  :) 

 

Now, back to your questions.

>>> I have been looking and DC and DF  and am trying to discern the exact differences. DC can be used in 2in mode, but it requires adapters. Any compromises associated with it, as opposed to 2in out of the box DF solution? Does it vignette? What about 2in filters?

The only difference between the two versions is the focuser. The DF has a 2" sturdier focuser (the same as in the Sky 90), whereas the DC has a 1.25" lighter focuser. This difference makes the DF 0.7kg heavier than the DC. Also the focuser travel is shorter in the DC. You can get a rather expensive adapter to use the DC in 2" mode. I don't think the DC with this 2" adapter shows any vignetting. 2" filters can be screwed onto the diagonal nosepiece or at the eyepiece barrel. If you are interested in the DC, I would also drop Baader an email and ask them whether they have a 2" clicklock fitting the focuser of the FC-100 DC (which I believe is the same as in the Tak FC-76..). If they do make one, this could be cheaper than the Tak adapter and possibly even better. 

 

 

>>> Microfocusing is either Tak solution or FTF. FTF shorthens light path and some EPs do not focus and binos have to be used with a barlow. (Note: I do not use binos but am trying to be futureproof). Have I missed anything? Which solution is lighter? Shorter?

Yes, the FTF light path is shorter but you should be able to reach focus with an extension tube. As far as I know the DC focuser can be shortened (there is one part in the focuser that can be removed, making the focuser rather short. The FTF should be the shortest one. I don't do binoviewing but I believe there should be enough path if one uses a Baader T2 diagonal and screws the binos directly onto the diagonal body (replacing the diagonal eyepiece holder). The DC and the FTF are lighter than the DF (we are talking about <= 0.7kg).  I have so far lived without microfocuser, but I'm aware that other members find it necessary. Dunno, maybe my hand can micro adjust? There is a FT microfocuser which can be installed onto the Tak focuser. Not sure whether this is a good solution. I'd rather get a complete FT focuser rather than the separate FT microfocuser. 

Personally, if 2" eyepieces will be used, I would go for the DC+FTF or DF routes, rather than the DC + 2" adapter. The FTF will make your "binoviewing experience" easier because of the additional path, but you might need an extension tube with some eyepieces. The DF will not require an extension tube with 2" diagonal + 2" (or 1.25") eyepieces, but you will have to be careful with binoviewing combinations I feel. I don't know who observes with binos and the DF here on SGL. You could ask this on CN. There are a few Tak owners over there too. 

 

 

>> Finally, @Piero which mount did you choose and how does it perform. I am lookint at AYO paired up with Berlebach Report, not sure if it fits the bill.

My mount is an AOK AYO II and the tripod is a Berlebach UNI 19 (like the 18 but with central column. I also added the leg spread stopper and double clamps). The AYO II is attached to the tripod via 3/8" UNC bolt. It seems a great mount to me. If you order one, be prepared to a long wait (nearly 6 months). I chose it because of the large bearings design. The mount is very smooth on both axes but the adjustment bolts can block them completely. The feeling I have when I use it, is to use what I believe would be a high quality dobson mount: smooth, but precise, with the option to tighten the axes completely if needed. With the Tak + accessories (~6kg), I don't use any counterweight on the other arm. No problem at all for this mount. 

Regarding the tripod, here is my research thread about the Berlebach UNI 19 (https://stargazerslounge.com/topic/305237-ideas-about-a-berlebach-uni-tripod/ ).

 

Hope this helps, 

Piero

 

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Thank you very much, @Piero.

How did you deal with finder? Can one mount just about any quick release shoe on the OTA? I ask because I see some overpriced Tak findershoes and surely no one would buy them unless they made them mandatory. And the option is hard fixing the finder, which is aaargh.

You went with the clamshells? Are they lighter than the Paralax or similar rings?

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26 minutes ago, BGazing said:

Thank you very much, @Piero.

How did you deal with finder? Can one mount just about any quick release shoe on the OTA? I ask because I see some overpriced Tak findershoes and surely no one would buy them unless they made them mandatory. And the option is hard fixing the finder, which is aaargh.

You went with the clamshells? Are they lighter than the Paralax or similar rings?

 

Well, I don't use a finder because my 35 Pan gives 3 degrees of field making star hopping quite easy to me. I can also star-hope with 1 degree FOV without too much difficulty. 

As far as finder quick release shoes, FLO sell this: https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adm-misc-mounting-accessories/adm-takahashi-quick-release-finder-bracket.html . I don't know if it fits the Tak FC100, but having dealt with them many times, I am sure they will give you a quick and complete answer. Permanently fixing the finder to the telescope does not look great to me either, as you said. 

Yes, I bought a clamshell 95mm (it's the short one. The long one is for the DL version). The clamshell should be a bit heavier than the rings I believe. For visual, the benefit of the clamshell is that you can easily balance the telescope by loosening and tightening the clamshell main bolt, rather than the mount clamp holding the dovetail. The clamp should weigh more than the rings, but it will allow you to use a short dovetail. It's a trade-off really and it depends on your preferences I feel. Personally I'm happy with the clamshell but I know that other members are happy with the rings. At least visually, the clamshell is more than adequate to hold the telescope firmly. 

My Tak + clamshell + Ayo + UNI19 has a vibration damping time of <= 1s (even when the central column is extended) in these windy days. Otherwise, it is just detectable, lasting a fraction of second.

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8 minutes ago, Piero said:

I can also star-hope with 1 degree FOV without too much difficulty. 

Is that where you 'hope' the target is in view? ;);) 

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11 minutes ago, Stu said:

Is that where you 'hope' the target is in view? ;);) 

LOL! :D  

A downside of spell checking programs on mobiles.. at least it made a nice joke! 

I apologise for this typo.. :) 

 

Edit:

the "do" disappeared too..

"I can do star hopping" => "I can star hope".. interesting.. I might have to update my phone software..

Edited by Piero
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2 hours ago, BGazing said:

Thank you very much, @Piero.

How did you deal with finder? Can one mount just about any quick release shoe on the OTA? I ask because I see some overpriced Tak findershoes and surely no one would buy them unless they made them mandatory. And the option is hard fixing the finder, which is aaargh.

You went with the clamshells? Are they lighter than the Paralax or similar rings?

The Tak finders bolt onto the focuser body. The Tak finders themselves are superb quality (they should be for £120 for a 6x30 !) but straight through and I prefer a RACI. I found that the Skywatche 6x30 RACI would fit into the Tak bracket but it was still bolted to the tube so I found a way to attach a Skywatcher type finder shoe to the scope so I can use Skywatcher and compatible finder brackets now. There is a Tak adapter to allow this as well but, as you might guess, it's a relatively expensive item. More on this in this thread:

 

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On 22/07/2017 at 23:20, Stu said:

I went for the DC version as I have never really rated Tak focusers and always intended to fit a FeatherTouch. I have the FT2025-BCR, same as you are considering. There is a lightweight LW version which saves a little weight but on balance I would stick with the full version for the 100. The LW suits the 60 and 76 scopes well.

I chose tube rings rather than the clamshell because I found the clamshell a little more bulky and perhaps heavier (need to check that out). I felt that they would also hold the scope more solidly being spread out more but this is perception rather than any hard fact.

I can probably weigh the scope tomorrow if that helps.

I too need an extension tube to get focus if not using binoviewers but I quite like the flexibility.

It's a lovely scope, very portable and I think you might just notice the difference vs the TV60 ;) 

Stu I agree with you on rings vs clamp. What would concern me is that the one clamp has only one fastening bolt, while 2 rings are separate holders, each with its own bolt. And an extra could be bought.

My TV frac has a clamp, but, it holds the tube with two allen hex screws and is very secure. The Tak's is more user friendly, but the user could be caught out that one time.....

Edited by 25585

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42 minutes ago, 25585 said:

Stu I agree with you on rings vs clamp. What would concern me is that the one clamp has only one fastening bolt, while 2 rings are separate holders, each with its own bolt. And an extra could be bought.

My TV frac has a clamp, but, it holds the tube with two allen hex screws and is very secure. The Tak's is more user friendly, but the user could be caught out that one time.....

 

Having tried the Tak clamshell many times, I don't see the single bolt as a potential issue at all. The telescope does not slide (unless one intentionally untightens the bolt), and the clamshell does not "open up" easily either. Personally, I don't see any reason to panic about the Tak clamshell. It's really well made. 

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