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Piero

Tak FC-100 - a few questions :)

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42 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:

situated on the top of the cast focuser body are too tight.

Do you have a picture of these Mike?

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I tweaked the stock single speed focuser on my Tak FC100DL in a similar fashion. I had to carefully remove the locking solution that had been applied to the small grub screws on the upper side of the focuser and find a suitable tool to loosen the round chrome plate that holds the  R&P assembly in place. Once done getting firm but smooth action was strightforward. It's now very nice to use and I just use a dab on the large tension wheel on the top of the focuser when the scope has a heavy eyepiece on board and is point towards the zenith.

The stock Tak focuser reminds me of the old stock Vixen R&P - simple but effective. 

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I just saw them on top of the TSA120 focuser, there are 3 grub screws with glue over them. I need an explanation as I'm a bit daft... the brass box holding the pinion shaft in place- is that its primary function or does it also provide tension or reduced backlash or something? Are those grub screws on the top the primary tension adjustment?

I'll wear mate mine in to see how it is before touching the focuser.

Edited by jetstream

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4 minutes ago, jetstream said:

Do you have a picture of these Mike?

Yes Gerry. Unscrewing the locking screw, being careful not to lose the small bass disc that may be loosely attached to the locking screw by grease, you can access the hex screws. 20180603_224117.thumb.jpg.b7b25c8a1942f8652f720b2988adc18b.jpg20180603_224039.thumb.jpg.04a48f2140998bd3841b660838ad1112.jpg

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15 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:

Yes Gerry. Unscrewing the locking screw, being careful not to lose the small bass disc that may be loosely attached to the locking screw by grease, you can access the hex screws. 20180603_224117.thumb.jpg.b7b25c8a1942f8652f720b2988adc18b.jpg20180603_224039.thumb.jpg.04a48f2140998bd3841b660838ad1112.jpg

Thanks Mike, I lucked out as I don't have to remove the locking knob, any idea what size those grub screws are for reference?

 

IMG_4445.JPG

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14 hours ago, jetstream said:

Thanks Mike, I lucked out as I don't have to remove the locking knob, any idea what size those grub screws are for reference?

In my DF a 1.5mm metric Hex key can unscrew them. ;) 

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24 minutes ago, Piero said:

In my DF a 1.5mm metric Hex key can unscrew them. ;) 

Thanks Piero, I knew you would come through with the info.

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As a FYI snip the Japanese site does not show a FC100DL as a current model, but here is the page on DL http://www.takahashijapan.com/ct-news/news_topics/newst_170530_fc-100dl_17.html . Production it says was based upon orders made in 2017, presumably from retailers.

So to another Tak topic. Extenders for DLs. Ian King is asking T'hashi Europe which is the best for strictly viewing. The Japanese site has this chart http://www.takahashijapan.com/ct-products/prod_topics/products_ex.html that shows a TOA 1.6x is best viewing, while the Q 1.6x (50.8) is standard. 

The Q 1.6x is that shown on a DL system diagram, and is the model IK gave, however he is running it by Tak UK.

Whichever is best, my DL would be a 1440mm F14.4 with an ED 1.6x extender, the purpose being use of longer FL eye pieces for higher magnifications, specialising the Tak further as a lower weight longer FL telescope.

 

Edited by 25585

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On 07/06/2018 at 17:39, 25585 said:

As a FYI snip the Japanese site does not show a FC100DL as a current model, but here is the page on DL http://www.takahashijapan.com/ct-news/news_topics/newst_170530_fc-100dl_17.html . Production it says was based upon orders made in 2017, presumably from retailers.

So to another Tak topic. Extenders for DLs. Ian King is asking T'hashi Europe which is the best for strictly viewing. The Japanese site has this chart http://www.takahashijapan.com/ct-products/prod_topics/products_ex.html that shows a TOA 1.6x is best viewing, while the Q 1.6x (50.8) is standard. 

The Q 1.6x is that shown on a DL system diagram, and is the model IK gave, however he is running it by Tak UK.

Whichever is best, my DL would be a 1440mm F14.4 with an ED 1.6x extender, the purpose being use of longer FL eye pieces for higher magnifications, specialising the Tak further as a lower weight longer FL telescope.

 

What is your max mag you observe with now regularly?

Edited by jetstream
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On 9 June 2018 at 03:21, jetstream said:

What is your max mag you observe with now regularly?

About 100x on any scope Skytee mounted. Being purely hand guided that amount loses its target with even a twitch or sneeze. Dobs are steadier and I can go up to 150x on a good night. At the moment hay fever is my worst enemy.

So with an extender I can use 13mm, 14mm to get around 100x, a better selection of what I own already. Without its just a 9mm or for the 120 Equinox a 7mm, or zooms lower end FL. 

Edited by 25585
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1 hour ago, 25585 said:

About 100x on any scope Skytee mounted. Being purely hand guided that amount loses its target with even a twitch or sneeze. Dobs are steadier and I can go up to 150x on a good night. At the moment hay fever is my worst enemy.

So with an extender I can use 13mm, 14mm to get around 100x, a better selection of what I own already. Without its just a 9mm or for the 120 Equinox a 7mm, or zooms lower end FL. 

You are missing alot by not going higher, particularity on lunar and planetary. My alt az mounts are quite usable up to and over x200.

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I frequently use 200x - 300x with my refractors on the Skytee II mount. The Vixen ED102SS tends to run out of puff at around 200x-220x but the Tak FC100DL, the ED120 and the TMB/LZOS are quite comfortable in the 200x plus zone. When viewing Venus recently I've been using 225x - 300x with the Tak and the images have been sharp and well defined. Jupiter tends to look better at slightly lower power but that's the nature of the target not the mount / scope.

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I get to 200x + with the Tak FS 102 on the William Optics EZTouch. 

With the C9.25 on the same mount its in the 200- 300 x range

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On 09/06/2018 at 03:21, jetstream said:

What is your max mag you observe with now regularly?

It really depends on the target. I think X200 is a safe bet on most nights on pretty much anything, but your Tak will easily exceed X400 on a good night. The Moon, Mars, Mercury and Venus all take power well on a steady night. Jupiter and Saturn are better viewed at around X200. Obviously you'll have to match the power with the local seeing.

I bought a 1.6 extender Q a few years ago and it was superb, but more than a bit fiddley at times. It was without a doubt the best image amplifier I've ever used, being completely transparent! However, the Tak is so good that it doesn't need the Q to reach high powers. Star images and colour correction are perfect with or without the Q in the light path, so it may save you an awful lot of money if you can try one out before buying. 

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29 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:

It really depends on the target. I think X200 is a safe bet on most nights on pretty much anything, but your Tak will easily exceed X400 on a good night. The Moon, Mars, Mercury and Venus all take power well on a steady night. Jupiter and Saturn are better viewed at around X200. Obviously you'll have to match the power with the local seeing.

I bought a 1.6 extender Q a few years ago and it was superb, but more than a bit fiddley at times. It was without a doubt the best image amplifier I've ever used, being completely transparent! However, the Tak is so good that it doesn't need the Q to reach high powers. Star images and colour correction are perfect with or without the Q in the light path, so it may save you an awful lot of money if you can try one out before buying. 

Off topic a bit but I've had my best refactor view of M13 using the TSA120/Nikon HW 14(EIC), it shows the characteristic "spider plant" look very well. I must say this telescope is amazing on stars and Antares, among others, shows unbelievable color in it. So far Jupiter is taking 250x-300x using the 3.4mm HR and the zooms. The detail is superb for 120mm... and it splits stars so well, I was on the doubles hunt last night and I can actually find a bunch now with the AZEQ6.

This triplet scope loves the Baader/Zeiss prism diag on stars and solar system objects. It has been a great purchase Mike.

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51 minutes ago, mikeDnight said:

It really depends on the target. I think X200 is a safe bet on most nights on pretty much anything, but your Tak will easily exceed X400 on a good night. The Moon, Mars, Mercury and Venus all take power well on a steady night. Jupiter and Saturn are better viewed at around X200. Obviously you'll have to match the power with the local seeing.

I bought a 1.6 extender Q a few years ago and it was superb, but more than a bit fiddley at times. It was without a doubt the best image amplifier I've ever used, being completely transparent! However, the Tak is so good that it doesn't need the Q to reach high powers. Star images and colour correction are perfect with or without the Q in the light path, so it may save you an awful lot of money if you can try one out before buying. 

It's mechanical things that can affect losing high power targets. Slight wobble from a mount, focuser, eyepiece or any combination. 

I would like to go higher but find myself getting tenser trying to keep a target centered. So settle for compromise until I have had more experience maybe. 

An extender is expensive, especially a Tak one, so will keep to Barlows for the time being. 

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8 minutes ago, 25585 said:

It's mechanical things that can affect losing high power targets. Slight wobble from a mount, focuser, eyepiece or any combination. 

I would like to go higher but find myself getting tenser trying to keep a target centered. So settle for compromise until I have had more experience maybe. 

An extender is expensive, especially a Tak one, so will keep to Barlows for the time being. 

What high power eyepieces do you have?

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30 minutes ago, 25585 said:

It's mechanical things that can affect losing high power targets. Slight wobble from a mount, focuser, eyepiece or any combination. 

Maybe reducing the weight of the accessories on your OTA might help a bit 25885?

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42 minutes ago, 25585 said:

It's mechanical things that can affect losing high power targets. Slight wobble from a mount, focuser, eyepiece or any combination. 

I would like to go higher but find myself getting tenser trying to keep a target centered. So settle for compromise until I have had more experience maybe. 

An extender is expensive, especially a Tak one, so will keep to Barlows for the time being. 

I don't try to keep things precisely centred. My approach at high power with the Skytee II (and other undriven mounts) is to shift the target to the edge of the FoV, let it drift about 80% across while I observe then shift it back to the other side again. If any vibration has occurred during the shift across the field it quickly dies out and most of the "drift" is steady so I can concentrate on the image. With the driven Vixen GP DX things do tend to stay in the middle though :smiley:

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2 hours ago, John said:

I don't try to keep things precisely centred. My approach at high power with the Skytee II (and other undriven mounts) is to shift the target to the edge of the FoV, let it drift about 80% across while I observe then shift it back to the other side again. If any vibration has occurred during the shift across the field it quickly dies out and most of the "drift" is steady so I can concentrate on the image. With the driven Vixen GP DX things do tend to stay in the middle though :smiley:

That's what I love about the Vixen GP mount I've got. Virtually as quick as a simple AltAz to set up, but nice stable on-axis high power views.

I tend to either be doing lunar/solar or planetary observing, or deep sky for which I prefer manual AltAz so I choose the mount accordingly. 

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I agree, 100x with the Tak is quite limiting for planetary observation. I use that mag with my TV60.

With the Tak 150x-250x is my usual range and that is exceed when the seeing and transparency are particularly good.

The Ayo + Berlebach combo is a rock with the Tak on top. No problem with tracking at all.

20180505_172032.thumb.jpg.a509d91aad273ea6b6e6cb53622eac84.jpg

 

And here the Boss....

20171203_160320.thumb.jpg.57a7f5cc6bc4e856fe53a65ee100fb01.jpg

Edited by Piero
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8 hours ago, JeremyS said:

Maybe reducing the weight of the accessories on your OTA might help a bit 25885?

It is the slow motion gears which have a bit of play. That's on the ST where they are not completely broken. No OTA or mounting fitted. 

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8 hours ago, jetstream said:

What high power eyepieces do you have?

10mm, 9mm, 8mm, 7mm, 5mm, 3.5mm

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1 hour ago, 25585 said:

10mm, 9mm, 8mm, 7mm, 5mm, 3.5mm

What are they? I'm curious - if they are reasonably low scatter then they will be fine. A lot of this eyepiece talk is splitting hairs really and the seeing has to be very good to split those hairs. I would reconsider your mounting options before EP's or barlows etc IMHO. I need a settling time of a second or less to be happy...

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3 hours ago, jetstream said:

I need a settling time of a second or less to be happy...

Same here Gerry

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