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Atik 16200 - This should beat the heat!


RayD

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Well I finally got it and hope this will beat the Spanish heat!  With Atik claiming a delta t of -50 max, it should in theory.  I shall put it to the test and see how it gets on, and hopefully post some direct comparisons with my 460EX just for fun.

Looking forward to using this :thumbright:

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I looked at the QSI 683, but chose this as I already have the Atik EFW2 filter wheel with 2" filters, so seemed to make sense from a financial perspective.

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Well it's certainly a good start.  Ambient temperature in my living room of 22 degrees, and the camera topped out at -29 (.4), so the claims of -50 look absolutely spot on, and definitely achieved :thumbright:

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Well a whole -25 dark library at 900, 600 and 300s run off over night with no issues.  All seems good and this being the first mechanical shutter camera I've used I'm not sure as they may all do it, I love the fact that in Artemis (don't know if it does it in SGPro yet as I haven't tried), you tick the "dark" check box and it keeps the shutter closed.  I have the cap on anyway, but this seems like quite a good idea.

Ordered a new M54 adaptor from FLO for the EFW2, and we should be good to go..........ah, clear skies please.

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2 minutes ago, Adam J said:

Just looking at the specification of this camera 1.3kg + wheel + flattener could trouble a focuser. Its actually heavier than my cool boxed DLSR by 150g. 

Yes I considered that.  The Esprit 100 has a 3" R&P, so I believe this should be fine.

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Looks good.

Would like to see your imaging train with it connected to scope Ray.  I was looking at this camera as I do like Atik.  A bit concerned with the totem pole of stuff at the back of the scope though and that huge weight on the back of the focuser causing tilt.

 

EDIT:  Also only five filters available in EFW2 for that camera and needing to be 2" ones. Think Astrodon and 2" filters?????? Sit down comfortably before looking at those prices......

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45 minutes ago, kirkster501 said:

Looks good.

Would like to see your imaging train with it connected to scope Ray.  I was looking at this camera as I do like Atik.  A bit concerned with the totem pole of stuff at the back of the scope though and that huge weight on the back of the focuser causing tilt.

 

EDIT:  Also only five filters available in EFW2 for that camera and needing to be 2" ones. Think Astrodon and 2" filters?????? Sit down comfortably before looking at those prices......

It shouldn't be too bad as there is only an 8.8mm space to make up, so will be pretty short really.  I already have Baader 2" filters (with the 3.5nm HA), but know the prices and most definitely can't afford the Astrodon ones, so this was a big deciding factor in going for this over the QSI. 

I can only hope it will work, and I suppose I will soon find out.

I have to say it seems really well made and so far everything has been working spot on, so fingers crossed it will do the job on the 3" Esprit focuser, which already has everything on it, but I'll just be adding another 900g for this camera over the 460.

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I've just looked at this on the Atik website (as an Atik enthusiast) and it looks great. I'm irritated, though, by their website's perpetuating of the notion that pixel count equals resolution, making this the 'highest resolution' camera in their range. I would argue that resolution in a camera is defined by pixel size, not pixel count or chip size. In astronomy we measure resolution in arcseconds per pixel so, in a given telescope, pixel size alone determines resolution. Chip size determines field of view. Pixel count of itself determines nothing at all.

So why can't we have cameras described in the terms which matter? That is, chip size (mm across, mm up/down, mm diagonal and pixel size.) This is what we need to model our FOV on a planetarium, check that our scope's image circle is adequate and find out our resolution in "PP. I have no interest whatever in the total number of pixels!

As far as I'm concerned I have a low resolution Atik 11000 and a high resolution Atik 460. The latter has fewer pixels but they are much smaller.

Olly

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Agreed Olly. I got this purely for fov, I already have the 460 so wanted something to just give me a bit more real estate. 

Seems very good. 

Edit:  That's not strictly true actually as the primary reason was the high Delta T, but the FOV was also up there as I would have got a one 6.

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29 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

I don't know much about this, but why on earth have two big heavy steel handles on the back?

I'm not so sure they're going to be that heavy. They're certainly not that big, but even just moving the camera about you do tend to use them quite naturally. 

As with all cameras it's not going to fit every bill, but hopefully it will fit in well with the 460.

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1 hour ago, ollypenrice said:

I might be inclined to run the cables through the handles, cable-tied to them, to take the stress off the plugs.

Olly

Agreed, why, why, why do astronomy manufacturers insists on using the mini-USB unclamped connector for these connections????

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5 minutes ago, kirkster501 said:

Agreed, why, why, why do astronomy manufacturers insists on using the mini-USB unclamped connector for these connections????

Well they certainly can't say it's down to cost that's for sure!!

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9 minutes ago, kirkster501 said:

Agreed, why, why, why do astronomy manufacturers insists on using the mini-USB unclamped connector for these connections????

I know, it's irritating isn't it?! I can only assume it has something to do with cable snagging - better to have the cable come out the potentially wreck the socket etc.

I'm really paranoid about cables and their security - to give me peace of mind and make setup/teardown easier I've ended up using a dsub and muliticore for my usb connections - it means I don't have to interfere with the sockets on the camera.

IMG_20170715_093923.thumb.jpg.8a2c6bdd2ac932cfcd1c6493920d0fa6.jpg

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4 minutes ago, RayD said:

Holy cow that's neater than a Scotch on the rocks!  Very tidy Rich.

Thank you sir! I hope you don't mind me posting this on your thread, I wanted to share as I've found the dsub and loom very effective and haven't suffered any ill effects such as crosstalk or interference on the usb lines.

That camera of yours looks drop dead gorgeous - I can dream for now :happy11:

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14 minutes ago, RichLD said:

Thank you sir! I hope you don't mind me posting this on your thread, I wanted to share as I've found the dsub and loom very effective and haven't suffered any ill effects such as crosstalk or interference on the usb lines.

That camera of yours looks drop dead gorgeous - I can dream for now :happy11:

No absolutely not, that looks awesome and I can only dream of ever having the patience and ability to do that myself. 

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1 hour ago, kirkster501 said:

Sorry for slight thread hijack to Ray - happy to take up on a different thread - I like those USB 90 degree bends.  Where'd ya get them from please?

Yes, Richard mentioned these while he was here and I forgot to follow them up. They are a great idea.

Olly

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1 hour ago, kirkster501 said:

Sorry for slight thread hijack to Ray - happy to take up on a different thread - I like those USB 90 degree bends.  Where'd ya get them from please?

No problem at all. I'd be interested to find out myself. 

I use the mini USB ones myself, but these look like USB B, which I've not seen. 

 

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2 hours ago, kirkster501 said:

Sorry for slight thread hijack to Ray - happy to take up on a different thread - I like those USB 90 degree bends.  Where'd ya get them from please?

There you go - they seem to be really nice quality as well, they have 24 AWG power conductors.

Startech 1m USB 2.0 A to Left Angle B USB Printer Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GURMTTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JVWYYLViH1inL

I'm sure they do different lengths as well

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