Astrokev's ROR - The Build

[Davey-T]

Pigging stuff to plane, a router would be better but it would be hard to glue the joint and then push the boards together, it would be easier to fill the joint along the top after fixing the boards.

A supporting timber would need planeing to fit under the joint

Dave

[Astrokev]

10 minutes ago, JamesF said:

Out of interest Kev, how have you attached your breathable membrane to the timber?  I've been thinking I'd staple mine as I'm sure that's what the builder did when he put it on our barn roof.

James

I just used clout nails. Seemed to go ok. 

[Astrokev]

9 minutes ago, Davey-T said:

Pigging stuff to plane, a router would be better but it would be hard to glue the joint and then push the boards together, it would be easier to fill the joint along the top after fixing the boards.

A supporting timber would need planeing to fit under the joint

Dave

Yeah, I need to think through the options!

im sitting in a field at the moment just watching some NLC's develop. Gives me something to think about while I wait ?

[nightvision]

The NLC's do look amazing tonight!

Edited July 2, 2018 by nightvision

[Astrokev]

Today's progress -

Completed the noggins on the north side of the roof, and attached the edge timber along the eaves on the south side. Due to the width of the roof, I need 2 lengths to edge the eaves - a long and a short length. The short length still needs to be fitted.

Will complete the eave timbers tomorrow and then probably faff around, wondering which bit to do next - either the gable ends and the capture mechanism, or the ridge support once I decide how to approach this. Either way, getting close to being able to get the OSB out and try it for size, which is exciting ? .

Ubiquitous pictures below and, to mix it up a bit, also posted an image of the NLC's I was watching at midnight last night.

[Gina]

??

[Astrokev]

...and update for today...

Completed the eave beams on both sides of the obsy, and added diagonal bracing timbers across the rafters. Although the roof appears really solid without them, these will ensure the roof stays square. Probably not required, but that's just me ? .

Just need to sort out the ridge support now, and add a bit more structure to the gable ends, and then I can lay the OSB.

 

[Gina]

I think I see why you want 6 wheels!  ?  I used 6mm marine ply on my roof and fewer ribs. 

[Astrokev]

4 minutes ago, Gina said:

I think I see why you want 6 wheels!  ?  I used 6mm marine ply on my roof and fewer ribs. 

Yes it's pretty heavy I think - although I can roll the roof with one finger. Not sure that'll be the case when the OSB and EPDM are on though! Six wheels was definitely the right decision!

Over-engineered, as usual ?

Edited July 4, 2018 by Astrokev

[Gina]

Depends how thick the OSB is.

[Astrokev]

2 minutes ago, Gina said:

Depends how thick the OSB is.

11mm, but OSB isn't as rigid as ply. I want the roof to be strong enough to walk on ? 

Edited July 4, 2018 by Astrokev

[Gina]

Pretty heavy then...  I used 11mm OSB on my warm room roof.

[Gina]

2 minutes ago, Astrokev said:

11mm, but OSB isn't as rigid as ply. I want the roof to be strong enough to walk on ? 

Why?

[Gina]

Actually, the plywood stood my weight alright when I was laying the rubber roofing.

[Astrokev]

Just now, Gina said:

Why?

Partly because I think I'll have to, to be able to put the adhesive in the middle bits, and partly because it would be handy to be able to stand on the roof to keep next doors hedge in check! There isn't really enough room along the side of the obsy for a ladder to reach the top ? 

[Gina]

I made sure I built mine far enough from the fence to get a step ladder in so that I could work on the two sides next to my boundary.  Mind you I wasn't short of space.

[Astrokev]

Yes, although my garden is fairly big, I certainly don't have the space you have! I've left enough room for general maintenance work on the west side of the obsy, but I've decided to have a fairly big overhang over the gable end which will make it difficult to extend a step ladder up the fence/hedge without it being more or less vertical.

Now that the roof is nearly complete I think I could have gotten away with a lighter structure, but it's not a problem. Rather have it too strong than not strong enough. The only downside is a few more ££ spent on a few extra pieces of timber. I used 63x38 studding for the roof (except for the ridge and north & south end beams of course which are bigger).

Edited July 4, 2018 by Astrokev

[Astrokev]

So, what d'you do when it's too hot to work on the observatory?

Why, work out how much cladding I need and start to price it up of course! Could be pricey ? 

[Davey-T]

Might be worth considering getting an electric T nailer and use stainless steel brads really speeds up fixing cladding.

Not much expense in the grand scheme of things.

Dave

[Gina]

Yes that's what i did on my observatory.  The nailer has been very useful generally.  A good buy.

[Astrokev]

2 hours ago, Davey-T said:

Might be worth considering getting an electric T nailer and use stainless steel brads really speeds up fixing cladding.

Not much expense in the grand scheme of things.

Dave

Thanks for the suggestion. Will look into this ?

[Gina]

Recommended.

[Astrokev]

I'm currently planning to use shiplap, which seems to be the standard cladding material, but is feather-edge boarding worth considering?

The cost of shiplap is currently coming in at over £400 ?

[Davey-T]

2 minutes ago, Astrokev said:

I'm currently planning to use shiplap, which seems to be the standard cladding material, but is feather-edge boarding worth considering?

The cost of shiplap is currently coming in at over £400 ?

No, spend the money, much better job

Dave

[JamesF]

I'm inclined to agree.  Shiplap is more stable than feather-edge.

James