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Having recently replaced my astrophotography camera, I now have the old one up for sale on an astro site. However, doesn't hurt advertising it here
Here is an astro modified Canon Rebel xsi which is the Canon 450D equivalent. It is "good" condition and fully working order but does have some light scratches to the rear screen. I have tried to photograph these but they do not show up when the camera is switched on
Shutter count is 3860 which is extremely low.
Also included are the following :
Astronomik CLS clip filter which really is fantastic and makes a huge difference. It also adds additional dust protection.
Battery system / dc coupler - connects to a figure of 8 lead (IEC C7 Power Lead) - I might have one spare if deemed absolutely necessary. This device provides permanent power to the camera for those long nights - brilliant !
3 batteries and multi-voltage charger (mains / 12volt / 24volt)
I do not have the original box but it can be posted to UK address.
I would prefer collection (near Filey, North Yorkshire) but willing to post if you cover Paypal fees.
I might have a couple more batteries in other camera bags !!
Reason for sale is purchase of an astro modified Sony A7S with canon lens adaptor.
Including a few photos taken with this camera. Two of these images were placed 1st and 3rd in two separate Astrofest competitions in Yorkshire (York and Hull).
Newb here. I have settled on my first telescope being the 4SE or 6SE and I have a Sony Alpha 300 DSLR I would like to be able to connect to play around with AP. I am barely starting to grasp the terminology involved with telescopes in general but it seems connecting a camera to a telescope is a whole different ball game.
It seems as though the 4SE has a separate eyepiece and camera attachment? Looks like you can just flip a knob to swap between the viewer and camera? Whereas the 6SE it appears that you have to remove the whole eyepiece to connect the camera. After reading some reviews everyone says they immediately wanted a more powerful telescope so I am thinking the 6SE may be the way to go but I really don't like the idea of having to swap back and forth by removing the eyepiece, is there an after-market accessory that would allow it to work more like the 4SE (flip a switch from viewer to camera and back)?
And I guess my other question is are the optics really that much better on the 6SE that it would be worth the hassle when connecting the camera? I see that the light gathering capability and magnification are better but how perceivable is that difference? My goal is to do some moon viewing but it would be great to see some cool deep space objects too. +
One final thought, how much does the auto star tracking feature help or hurt the image quality? I mean on a 20 second+ exposure the object is going to move some amount, is the Nexstar tracking system really able to keep the object that precisely still in the optics? Or should I just expect to get blurry spots of light when photographing deep space objects?
Few days ago i tried imaging a deep sky object for the first time, so i tried m13 as an easy first target, I used took 7 lights, out of witch i selected 3 for stacking, and used 5 darks. DSS only selected 1 frame out of the 3 and stacked that. The result wasn't that good but then again....it's the first time i'm doing this. Settings were iso 6400, 15 second exposure, auto WB. I have also been having this problem, when my telescope slews to a target, it's always to the left of the frame and that was a bummer since i had to crop my picture. Please give me your advice and feedback, Clear skies!
I thought the DSO season was well and truly over for me, but the weather's been unusually clear here in N.I for the last while that i just couldn't help myself 😛
So even though there is no astro dark at this time of year up here at 54 degrees N, i decided i wouldn't let that stop me try for one last target. There was also a very big bright moon up as well, so i figured M13 was pretty much the only viable target for me. Of course, with just a wee SW 80ED to work with (at 510mm FL) i knew i didn't really have the FL to do this one justice, but having never shot a Globular Cluster before i was still excited to give it a go. So here it is:
Shot on May 24 from Crumlin, N.Ireland
20 * 420s with the IDAS-D1 at ISO 200
10 * 60s with the IDAS-D1 at ISO 200
All frames dithered aggressively every frame
Usual gear, Nikon D5300 on a HEQ5-Pro, guided with a QHY5 and PHD2, and captured with SGP.
AstroPixelProcessor used for stacking, gradient reduction, and star colour calibration. Everything else done in Photoshop. The 60s subs were used just for the core.
I'm kind of pleased with how it came out. Although i'm not completely sure tbh, as this is new ground for me, and if there's one area the wee 80ED does struggle a tad with it's with stars, and with a globular there's certainly nowhere to hide on that front!
Also attached is a 100% crop showing just the globular cluster itself.
C&C most welcome as always.
Last night i went out to a friend's place on the outskirts of the city to image jupiter with my 8 incher and my DSLR. Atmospheric conditions were average-ish, just enough to push the scope to F20. I used backyardEOS in planetary mode to control the camera and captured jupiter 2 times about 45 minutes apart with 1700 Frame videos. In one of the images the great red spot is visible and in the other it's not. Please give me your honest feedback and advice, Clear skies!