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By Gary Shaw
Hi All I’m considering purchasing an 8”aperture, f3.8 newtonian ( primarily for EAA) from Orion UK and would appreciate any input or feedback from anyone familiar with the product, the company or the purchasing process - and how to assess the compatibility with my current cameras.
This is would be a step up from my current equipment and entails selecting components that I’ve never used and know little about such as a rack and pinion focuser and components (ACU-3L), and coma corrector (Wynne Corrector). I’ve added links to these items below. I’m also feeling unsure of how to mate up my Zwo 178 and 294 cameras to the 3” focuser and whether there will be an acceptable match between the scope optics and my sensors.
I’m sure the folks at Orion UK will assist with all this but I’d sure welcome input from the Stargazer's Lounge community before starting the dialog with Orion UK.
thank you in advance for any help you can provide!
ACU-3L Focuser selection Info: https://www.orionopt...sers.html#ACU3L
Wynne Corrector selection Info: https://www.orionopt...torsfittin.html
I'm trying to figure out the cause of these weird star shapes I'm getting with my 130pds. I had them before, but someone narrowed it down to being pinched optics. So I loosened the primary retention clips, which seemed to fix the problem. Now that I've been able to get back out for another night of imaging, they seem to be back again! I made sure that the primary retention clips are still loose - should they be touching the mirror or not? I've also made sure that the primary collimation locking screws aren't done up too tight as well. Collimation through my cheshire looks to be spot on to me. Here's my image of Andromeda with the odd stars in question:
Just thought I would say hi to everyone.
I am a Noob, but have been googling astronomy for past year, so am familiar with some of the lighter terminology.
Most of my googles have directed me to this site, so I have already read forum posts here numerous times.
Have already acquired quite a bit of kit, but just not found the time to try it out yet.
This should hopefully change soon as I am expecting to have a lot more spare time in a couple of months.
Being in the Midlands in the UK, I am not currently missing much, due to the current cloudy weather here.
I am looking forward to picking your brains and in time posting some of my experiences here.
By LR Watanabe
Okay, this is yet to happen, but in one year or so, I'll be fortunate enough to be in the position of being able to spend a whopping 1200$ on one telescope/mount and all that [removed word].
Like a narrowband filter narrows the light going through the eyepiece, I've narrowed it down to either getting something of your recommendations OR a Sky Watcher 10" Flextube Dobsonian. Since, by that time, I'll already have a HEQ5 and a 150 PDS that'll be used for taking Astrophotos, I thought I might as well get something for visual observations of mostly galaxies (and sometimes nebulae), too. Dobsonians are the best as they offer the most aperture, which is what I've heard from at least 1000 beginner-aimed websites like "What telescope should you choose?" In the end, it all boils down to aperture for DSO visual astronomy, and so my heart is set upon a good Dob under 1200$– a Sky Watcher 10" Flextube.
What do you think of this? A 10" flextube Dob by SW, a company known for making quality products (and some rubbish ones somtimes, too)?
I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s).
I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times.
I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know).
I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images.
I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult.
I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand.
My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone.
I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at.
Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error?
Thanks in advance,