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By LR Watanabe
Okay, this is yet to happen, but in one year or so, I'll be fortunate enough to be in the position of being able to spend a whopping 1200$ on one telescope/mount and all that [removed word].
Like a narrowband filter narrows the light going through the eyepiece, I've narrowed it down to either getting something of your recommendations OR a Sky Watcher 10" Flextube Dobsonian. Since, by that time, I'll already have a HEQ5 and a 150 PDS that'll be used for taking Astrophotos, I thought I might as well get something for visual observations of mostly galaxies (and sometimes nebulae), too. Dobsonians are the best as they offer the most aperture, which is what I've heard from at least 1000 beginner-aimed websites like "What telescope should you choose?" In the end, it all boils down to aperture for DSO visual astronomy, and so my heart is set upon a good Dob under 1200$– a Sky Watcher 10" Flextube.
What do you think of this? A 10" flextube Dob by SW, a company known for making quality products (and some rubbish ones somtimes, too)?
I have just joined and have been looking around, and putting in various searches to find the answer to my question(s).
I have already found some valuable information, but i can't find a specific answer to a question i have relating to exposure times.
I have shot the milky way several times before, from a tripod and a wide angle lens. I am aware of and understand the "500 rule" and that worked fine for me at first when i was shooting with my Canon 6D Mark II. When i moved over to the Sony A7III i noticed significant trailing using the same rule and that led me to the NPF rule (Via the photopills app incase people dot know).
I am heading back to Tenerife once again in about 6 weeks time and want to buy a star tracker so i can get some really detailed images.
I have done a fair bit of research and in principle, the whole thing doesn't seem to be too daunting or difficult.
I have purchased the Polar Scope Align Pro app so i can align Polaris as accurately as possible, i will practise putting the unit together and familiarising myself with the different parts etc, but it is the exposure times that i do not understand.
My best glass is the Carl Ziess 50mm F/1.4 Planar, the 18mm F/2.8 Batis, the Sigma 35mm F/1.4 Art & the IRIX 15mm F/2.4 Blackstone.
I currently do not own, nor have i ever used a tracker, and I cannot find any information relating to which aperture, ISO and Shutter length any of these focal lengths should or could be shot at.
Is there anything similar to the 500 rule or NPF rule that relates to using a tracker with varied focal lengths? or is it just a case of stepping the lens down for sharpness and then trial and error?
Thanks in advance,
I am at the moment trying to set up "Dithering" on my APT.
I am presently using a Canon 600D, with Orion ED80 Refractor, mounted on my NEQ6PRO.
Please note, I have not yet progressed to Guiding - NO GUIDING
Do I basically select "APT Dithering" and maybe leave all the other settings at Default?
Most grateful if anyone can let be know which settings I might need to adjust, and to what values.
Finding it all a little bit confusing !
Hope someone with more experience than I, which basically means anyone that has successfully collimated a Newtonian, can answer a couple of compound questions I have based on my first and only attempt at secondary collimation of my SkyWatcher Flextube 250.
1) All three of my secondary collimation screws were extremely snug before I did anything and I was only able to comfortably turn them counter-clockwise. Is this normal? Do I need to loosen all three screws first before I can properly start collimation? Should I be turning any screw beyond "snug"?
2) Before collimating, I placed a yellow sheet inside my OTA opposite my focuser tube and I placed a red sheet between my secondary and primary. The view this gave through my focuser tube was of a red circle surrounded by a partial yellow ring (the secondary mirror stalk blocking a portion of this yellow annulus). While independently turning each of the secondary collimation screws counter-clockwise I looked down the focuser tube (both with and without a sight tube installed) expecting to see some change in the shape of the red area (more or less circular) and/or the yellow area (less or more even thickness). I turned the screws no more that 2 complete revolutions. I did not perceive any appreciable difference in what I saw and I turned each screw back (clockwise) to their original tightness before working with another of the screws. Does it make sense that I didn't perceive any change? Should I have turned the screws more revolutions? Should I have loosened more than one at a time?
Very confused and looking for your help. Thanks