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Hi,

You've probably seen loads of posts from me asking questions :help: I'm just getting together a list of items I need to get me started in imaging. So far I have,

ED80

Heq5

D600 modded

.85 reducer/flattener

DSLR M48 Ring adaptor

Is there anything else I'm going to need to start imaging ? I have a Mac but not sure how to connect it all up yet but not worried to much about that unless there is some special cable I need ! I've got a few power supplies I can use.

What about eyepieces for viewing ?

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11 hours ago, SAW said:

Hi,

You've probably seen loads of posts from me asking questions :help: I'm just getting together a list of items I need to get me started in imaging. So far I have,

ED80

Heq5

D600 modded

.85 reducer/flattener

DSLR M48 Ring adaptor

Is there anything else I'm going to need to start imaging ? I have a Mac but not sure how to connect it all up yet but not worried to much about that unless there is some special cable I need ! I've got a few power supplies I can use.

What about eyepieces for viewing ?

ED80 - the ED refers to a technique to reduce the diffraction of light through the lens. Different manufacturers models will have different focal lengths which will impact the field of view that you will achieve - marginal but it is there.

To connect the HEQ5 you will need a Serial-USB adapter - make sure that you get one with OSX drivers :)

The Canon will connect using a standard USB A to USB mini cable.

Check that the M48 EOS adapter is the 'standard' 11mm to get the camera at the correct distance from the FR/FF. A slim line adapter will put the camera just a bit to close for optimal.

I have not tried it, as I don't have the HEQ5 mount, but Stellarium should allow you to connect to the mount and slew to selected target.

Initially, the Canon EOS Utility application can be used for your capturing, Nebulosity is a good capture and post processing app.

CloudMakers have a suite of astrophotography applications covering a planetarium type program, image capture, plate solving etc. May be worth taking a look at the demon versions.

I can't think of anything else that will run on OSX.

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24 minutes ago, SAW said:

Rings for spacing ?

the camera sensor needs to be 55mm away from the ff/fr. The Canon body provides 44mm nominally, a 'standard' M48-EOS adapter the other 11mm.

You may want to add a little more spacing - 0.5mm perhaps - if things are not perfect.

Can't remember which way, but if your stars are all stretched radially from the centre then, I think, your spacing is too short.

 

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31 minutes ago, SAW said:

Rings for spacing ?

As iapa says, the ED80 is supplied in such a way that it should be OK.  But for information, you need to make sure that the space between the back of the reducer/flattener and the sensor is correct.  You don't need to 'measure' anything since the spacings should appear somewhere in the product information.   I believe it is 55mm for the ED80 flattener.  So if your Canon is 44mm and the adapter ring is 11 mm everything should be good.  Some folks find that they need to tweak this, presumably because of engineering tolerances.  You will know from your corner stars.  If they are round then all is good.  If not you may have to add or subtract a bit.  You can get 'Delrin spacers' to add small amounts.  (It would be more awkward if you had to subtract.). You'll probably be OK, but don't panic if the corners stars are out - it is may very well be a spacing issue if they are.

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5 minutes ago, SAW said:

If you are buying from FLO (and I would), then just drop them a note to check that the camera plus that adapter will give you the correct spacing with the reducer.  They are usually very helpful.

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Good points from Grierson.  Do yourself a favour and get hold of some decent capture software.  Backyard EOS gets good reviews.  I used APT when I was doing DSLR stuff.  I now use SGP which I think works with DSLRs but I have never tried it.  

 

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2 minutes ago, Grierson said:

Have you considered the software that you intend to use? I used BackyardEOS with my 600D when I started out.

If not and depending on the targets you may need to use one of these.  https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUMOX-intervalometer-remote-shutter-Camera/dp/B00C1C0WQC

Haven't really thought of what software I'll use, I am using a Mac but I do have Windows 7 on it that I can run if needed. 

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5 minutes ago, SAW said:

Yes will be getting it all from FLO apart from camera which I'll probably get from cheapastrophotograghy but not sure if I should buy a modded one or a standard camera and use a one of these https://www.firstlightoptics.com/uv-ir-filters/baader-uvir-cut-filter.html

The joy of getting FLO to confirm that it will work is that if it doesn't, postage is on them when you return it. :evil4:

I can recommend cheapastrophotography - great guy to deal with.

Edited by gnomus
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There are pros and cons with modded cameras, if it is a filter replacement then the cons are less, a complete removal of all filters can leave the inbuilt sensor cleaning disabled and the ability to focus with some camera lenses impossible unless its carefully re shimmed. The general view that modded cameras are ok for normal daytime use is not always true even with lots of workarounds, one reason I would never have a modded camera unless it was a spare gathering dust.

Alan

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8 minutes ago, SAW said:

Haven't really thought of what software I'll use, I am using a Mac but I do have Windows 7 on it that I can run if needed. 

You are cheating now :)

I listed what I had used on the MAC - much less choice than with Windoze.

Under Windoze, there's more choice.

Stellarium and Nebulosity are available for both OSX & Windows. That should get you covered for capture and target selection. Astrotortilla for plate solving.

Instead of Nebulosity, the Canon Utility s/w will do for the capture, and DSS for stacking the images. Nebulosity is not free, the others I have mentioned are.

For the 'do it all' I eventually settled on SGPro (c£100) with lets you build a complete sequence of events for targets, does the plate solving and slewing to the target, and the capturing.

Still use Nebulosity for calibration and stacking.

 

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13 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

There are pros and cons with modded cameras, if it is a filter replacement then the cons are less, a complete removal of all filters can leave the inbuilt sensor cleaning disabled and the ability to focus with some camera lenses impossible unless its carefully re shimmed. The general view that modded cameras are ok for normal daytime use is not always true even with lots of workarounds, one reason I would never have a modded camera unless it was a spare gathering dust.

Alan

How do you find imaging with a standard camera ? How do you get the colours to come out ?

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2 minutes ago, SAW said:

How do you find imaging with a standard camera ? How do you get the colours to come out ?

I dont normally shoot Ha rich targets but in general I found even in standard trim the Ha response was enough for me and a big plus for Lunar AP.

Alan

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8 minutes ago, SAW said:

How do you find imaging with a standard camera ? How do you get the colours to come out ?

They will come out OK - you just won't get the rich Ha that you should with a modded camera.  Incidentally, don't expect the sensor cleaning to work on the modded camera.  Also, I would consider the modded camera for Astro use only.  It can take daytime shots but they will have an odd colour balance.  

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Back in April I posted a couple of images of Bode's nebula taken with a Canon 700D and a Modded Canon 600D - the sensor in these is the same as it the processing chip.

Each is 5 x 600s ISO400 of Bode's nebulae . centred on SAO 15014

50 BIAS images specific to each camera

Nebulosity used for post processing:

  • created a master BAIS (stacked, no alignment, average/default)
  • Preprocessed - used the master BIAS as DARK
  • 43 FLATS (specific to each camera)

Saved as JPG to upload.

1. 700D stacked and cropped, saved as JPEG

2. 700D, corrected background and colour balance stretched a little

3. modded 600D stacked and cropped, saved as JPEG

4. modded 600D, corrected background and colour balance stretched a little

You can see, between 1 and 3, there is more 'red' in 3.

 

BODE'S NEBULAE 20170401_700DT5i_LIGHT_600s_ISO400.jpg

Stretched BODE'S NEBULAE 20170401_700DT5i_LIGHT_600s_ISO400.jpg

BODE'S NEBULAE_LIGHT_600s_400iso_600DT3i.jpg

stretched BODE'S NEBULAE_LIGHT_600s_400iso_600DT3i.jpg

 

 

Penchant for reiterating the obvious, so, obtained certificate in 'Teaching Granny to Suck Eggs 101".

Everything I write is my view, based on my experience, and has exactly the same worth as was paid for it.

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