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Baader optical wonder solution is practically Isopropyl alcohol. Instead of £12 for a 70mL of it, buy a 1000 mL of Isopropyl alcohol for £22 (before pandemic it was only £5). They have also smaller bottles which will be cheaper of course. The Baader solution and Isopropyl alcohol don’t remove the toughest of fungi on optics, only a few of the less deep set ones can be treated with them. I have used both for cleaning eyepieces and on certain stage of cleaning several 8 to 12 inch mirrors. They both worked identical. When applied through an optical cleaning fabric, they remove ( dissolve) fatty oils and fingerprints on optical surfaces. I had cleaned a 12 inch mirror once which for some unknown reason had ice cream stain on it (cleaning followed standard operation procedure for cleaning coated aluminised mirrors).
I am excited to join this big star gazing community! I realize I am abusing of your kindness, so that you in advance for any help you can give.
I have an old telescope, what appears to be a Meade ETX 90 from the early 2000s. I cleaned it pretty well after many Youtube videos and online research. I found full blown spider webs and dead spiders!
I have encountered a few of issues as I'm putting it back together and I wonder if anyone might be able to help.
1. I took off the screws of the back of my OTA (I know I shouldn't have!) and now I'm not sure how to put them back on (see attachments). When I try it seems to push the primary mirror instead of fastening to anything.
2. My secondary mirror flip is broken, the plastic piece part fell off. Is it possible to fix? The mirror itself is also very dirty (see attachments) and I don't think it can be cleaned further. Any tips on how to replace it and where to buy the parts? Or is it possible to not use the 90 eye piece viewport and instead use the front one so I don't need to fix the flip or the mirror?
4. My secondary baffle is sliding off. I've read that this is a problem w/older models. I tried pushing it to the right place and it requires some force, but after 1 minute it slides back to its original place. What should I do? Does this matter?
5. The plastic attachment to hold the smaller lens (finderscope?) wobbles no matter how tightly I screw it on. I don't know if it has anything to do with the front plastic part being a little broken.
Thank you for your help in advance, and I am still learning terminology so be easy on me
I am thinking of re-starting mirror grinding at home. I used to grind by hand and in this method, when we use the 1/3rd off-centre strokes for hogging out the sagitta, the upper glass becomes concave and would be polished into a mirror.
However, this time I'd like to build a Mirror-O-Matic or something similar and do not understand that if the tool is on top, how will the bottom glass become concave?
Or am I mistaken?
Friends, I am back with a tutorial video on how to modify your Sky Watcher HEQ5-PRO mount or its American twin, the Orion Sirius EQ-G into a belt driven mount.
The benefits of converting to a belt drive is that you don't have to worry about Backlash. The procedure took me about an hour to complete.
Link is below
As a newbie in AP I recently discovered that astro imaging isn't as simple as I imagined, it's not just "pointing and shooting".
The main point is that I need a tracker that will follow the sky's movement. But after seeing the prices at which decent trackers are sold I decided to see if I could build one myself from spare parts at my workshop. Turns out that I can, using two planks of wood a hinge, an arduino, a stepper motor, etc. So I decided to get to it, I have built the connection between both planks of wood with the hinge, but have now discovered a problem. After some investigation, I realized it's quite commonly named the "Tangent Problem" (the rod forms a 90º angle with the bottom plank). So the solutions offered vary from curved rods to involute pieces of plastic and tilting the rod.
I also saw another solution that was adjusting the speed at which the rod moves, and since I'm going to be using an arduino-driven stepper motor, I decided that this was the way to go. The problem is that I don't know in what ratio the speed has to increase over time to compensate the "Tangent problem".
That's why I decided to pose my question here as I'm sure someone must have done it already.
Sorry for my bad english, it isn't my first langnuage.
Thanks in advance and clear skies,