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tekkydave

D-Bot 3D Printer

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Having problems with a loose Precision Piezo module in the E3D extruder when hot at present but that's another matter!  I hate 3D printers at times but can't manage without!!

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Posted (edited)

I thought I would ditch the borosilicate glass and try a magnetic PEI sheet.

So I bought one of these

I removed my bed from the D-Bot to make it easier to apply and gave the surface a good clean with meths.

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The first part to apply is the magnetic base which sticks to the metal bed

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The best method is to score the backing with a sharp knife so the first quarter can be peeled off separately and stuck down. Then clamp it to the bed so it can't slip.

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Then peel off the last quarter and stick down carefully avoiding any bubbles.

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Then remove the clamps and stick the remaining three-quarters down

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The next part is the steel sheet which sticks to the magnetic sheet very well. The small tabs at the front are needed to prise it off the base.

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There is a yellow PEI sheet to stick to the steel sheet. I followed the same procedure as with the magnetic sheet.

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There are a few tiny bubbles on the left side of the sheet which I'm hoping will smooth out when I heat it all up.

The PEI sheet was slightly larger than the steel sheet by a few mm each side so that was trimmed off.

Finally the plate was fixed back to the z-carriage and connected back up to the controller

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I'll have a go at printing something tomorrow and report back.

 

Edited by tekkydave

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Why ditch the glass..?
imo it is the perfect solution.

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Because of the size of my bed (340x340mm) it was proving hard to keep it clamped in place. The glass is 300mm square.

I now effectively have a magnetic bed so I can try other solutions if not happy with the pei sheet that came with the kit. It is also possible to print directly on the steel sheet so I can flip it over and give that a try.

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Posted (edited)

I tried a PEI sheet - total disaster!  Filament sticks better to clean glass when hot and releases nicely when cold.  The hot nozzle burnt the PEI when Z homing using the Precision Piezo Z probe.  I ended up removing the PEI sheet and then struggling to get the goo off, though I managed it in the end. 

Unfortunately, before the PEI disaster on the 300mm square bed I bought a PEI sheet to attach to the aluminium bed of my Giant printer when I get back to upgrading it but I probably won't be using Precision Piezo Z probing.  I tried using glass on top of the 500mm square aluminium bed but guess it was too thick as it didn't get hot enough.  I haven't decided if I shall use the 500mm square PEI sheet yet.

Edited by Gina
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The most satisfying thing about 3D printing is the 'crack' when the print self-releases from the borosilicate glass half an hour after the bed stops heating. Sadly I'm often too impatient to wait...

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I have several sheets of glass for each printer.
When a print is done I remove sheet + sticking part and install a fresh sheet of glass and continue even before the alu printbed is cold.

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11 hours ago, Chriske said:

I have several sheets of glass for each printer.
When a print is done I remove sheet + sticking part and install a fresh sheet of glass and continue even before the alu printbed is cold.

How do you secure the glass to your bed? I have a gap of 20mm on the L & R sides of the glass, 30mm at the back and 10mm at the front. Foldback clips are not suitable. I like glass as a surface but since I increased the size of the bed from 300x300 to 340x340 its become an issue securing it physically.

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13 hours ago, Gina said:

I tried a PEI sheet - total disaster!  Filament sticks better to clean glass when hot and releases nicely when cold.  The hot nozzle burnt the PEI when Z homing using the Precision Piezo Z probe.  I ended up removing the PEI sheet and then struggling to get the goo off, though I managed it in the end. 

How hot is your nozzle when probing? I have mine at 130 as it is soft enough to squish any filament on the nozzle.

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33 minutes ago, tekkydave said:

How do you secure the glass to your bed? I have a gap of 20mm on the L & R sides of the glass, 30mm at the back and 10mm at the front. Foldback clips are not suitable. I like glass as a surface but since I increased the size of the bed from 300x300 to 340x340 its become an issue securing it physically.

I use clips. But I always make the sheets of glass 15mm larger at two side, so I still can use the full printable surface.

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49 minutes ago, tekkydave said:

How hot is your nozzle when probing? I have mine at 130 as it is soft enough to squish any filament on the nozzle.

260°C

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I set PLA always at 235°C for a 0.4mm nozzle, 245°C for a 0.7mm nozzle and 250°C for a 1.5mm nozzle.
I always use max partscooling(powerfan) and max heatsink fan speed. For that 1.5mm(Volcano) heatsink I even use a 70(!) mm powerfan at max speed.
This allows me to print rather fast.

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I use 240°C for PLA and 260°C for PETG except that I tried 280°C for PETG where there were steep overhangs but not sure it helped - I have some more experimenting to do.  I didn't realise a bigger nozzle wanted a higher temperature.  I tend to use a 0.4mm nozzle for higher precision parts and 0.8mm or 1.2mm for bigger, lower precision parts.  Though on my Giant printer I've been up to a 3mm nozzle plus various smaller sizes and my own design hotend.

Edited by Gina

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1 hour ago, Gina said:

I didn't realise a bigger nozzle wanted a higher temperature.

There's absolutely no need to raise temp using a bigger nozzle.
But as I want to combine very big nozzles and fast printing, higher temp is a absolute necessity. Standard speed of my 1.5mm nozzle is 45to50mm/s, sometimes I go even faster. Using 'SpiralVase' modus I can go as high as 55to60mm/s. To be clear: That is all done with a Volcano hotend of coarse.

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I run at 80mm/s with 0.8mm nozzle.  Volcano hotend with 60W heater.

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Printing now. I cleaned the PEI surface with what I normally use for glass :- Soap & warm water :D

PLA seems to be sticking quite happily to the surface so far....

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I read online that it is good to rough-up the surface of a new PEI sheet with wire wool prior to first use. Any truth in that PEI fans?

 

Edited by tekkydave

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Crikey, I've come down to 200C for PLA. No loss of layer adhesion and less ooze.

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51 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Crikey, I've come down to 200C for PLA. No loss of layer adhesion and less ooze.

Funny, so everyone has it's own formula to work with...:thumbsup:

I wouldn't even think of printing @ 200C. My steppers would stall..!

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Finished!

The print was firmly stuck to the PEI sheet at the end of the print. I couldn't pull it off. Not that I would ever want to do that.

Removed the steel sheet from the magnetic build plate and flexed it a few times and.... pop... off it came.

The base isn't as shiny as with glass but its still quite a nice satin texture.

I'm OK with PEI so far and the magnetic bed. I just don't like the look of the PEI sheet supplied with the kit. I'm going to look for a steel sheet with PEI already applied I think. Black would be nice :D

The part is a hook that sits inside our pull-out rubbish bins in the kitchen in case you were curious :)  Not the best print I've ever done but still getting my Cura settings right.

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1 hour ago, Chriske said:

Funny, so everyone has it's own formula to work with...:thumbsup:

I wouldn't even think of printing @ 200C. My steppers would stall..!

Maybe because I use low print speeds?

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