D-Bot 3D Printer

[Gina]

Mostly I've found glass to be good but have had problems with ABS and ASA with high sided prints.  A brim helps but doesn't always cure the problem.  I've bought a sheet of LokBuild to try on my Titan printer but haven't stuck it on yet.  It's supposed to cure this sort of problem but I'll believe it when/if I see it!

[tekkydave]

Yes, to be fair I only print with PLA and PETG at the moment.

I see so many issues online (mainly Facebook) with people using PLA & PETG that have managed to pull flakes off their glass trying to get prints off before they have cooled. Then others advise them to use all sorts of things to get their prints to stick & come off easy. Hairspray seems to always come up plus all kinds of glue & slurrys. Makes me laugh sometimes.

Clean surface & let it cool - pops right off for me

 

[Dave_D]

yeah i usually print on glass with no problem, but, if you don't try these things you'll never know

[Gina]

Quite true   I keep trying things in an attempt to make improvements.

Started stripping down my Pilot printer for parts.  Undoing the hard work I put into that brought a bit of a lump to my throat but it has to be.  It's being replaced with what should be a far better printer and I can't keep too many 3D printers   Onwards and upwards, though in this case my Mini printer will have the same print volume albeit with better accuracy and resolution.  I shall test it with Mega/RAMPS/LCD control but it will be getting the Duet Wi-Fi control board. 

 

[Stub Mandrel]

16 hours ago, Dave_D said:

Diall Aluminium Tape (i got a roll from B&Q) no kidding

Diall is B&Q's own brand

[tekkydave]

3 minutes ago, Gina said:

Quite true   I keep trying things in an attempt to make improvements.

Started stripping down my Pilot printer for parts.  Undoing the hard work I put into that brought a bit of a lump to my throat but it has to be.  It's being replaced with what should be a far better printer and I can't keep too many 3D printers   Onwards and upwards, though in this case my Mini printer will have the same print volume albeit with better accuracy and resolution.  I shall test it with Mega/RAMPS/LCD control but it will be getting the Duet Wi-Fi control board. 

 

I know what you mean - I was very sad taking my Prusa apart. Ironically I have now replaced most of the parts I harvested from it so I could put it back together in theory. I don't think I will though - I only have room for one printer in my office.

[tekkydave]

8 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Diall is B&Q's own brand

It's intended for taping together the heat insulating board you put down under laminate flooring. It's supposed to be moisture-proof so I thought it had a plastic coating on top of the aluminium. Does it smell at all when it gets hot?

[Gina]

I shan't be keeping all the parts I'm using on my Mini printer but I'm expecting to use the motors on my Giant printer since they're a bit bigger than other NEMA 17s I have.  I have also scrapped several imaging rigs I've made in upgrading so scrapping previous items that have had hours of hard work put into them is not really new.  As for 3D printers, if I find my Giant printer does all that my Titan does and just as well, the Titan could go.

[Chriske]

2 hours ago, tekkydave said:

 

Clean surface & let it cool - pops right off for me

 

 

Yep, for me the same.
Just clean the glass and wait to cool completely. You want another print to start as soon as possible, just buy 1 extra sheet of glass.

[Gina]

I find ABS pops off the glass plate when the bed temperature gets down to 80°C.

[Gina]

I've been reading up about the Duet WiFi and its connections compared with the RAMPS.  The stepper motor connections look the same but the endstops are different.  The Z probe is a special case but I understand that (Schottky diode instead of resistor network for NPN inductive probe).  The other connections seem quite straightforward.  I can see no reason why I shouldn't go straight to the Duet for my Mini printer as the Marlin code for the Mega/RAMPS/LCD control unit will be different from the Pilot printer it's coming from.  The motion was separate XYZ whereas the Mini is CoreXY and all the calibrations will be different.  Making up different connectors for RAMPS and messing with Marlin config.h seems a waste of time and effort.

Does this sound sensible or have I missed something?

[tekkydave]

Sounds like a plan

 

[Dave_D]

is it me or is the 'duet club' now a trio?

[Gina]

Two Daves and a Gina   Have Duet WiFi, unpacked it, studied it very closely, studied the wiki very closely, but not yet installed it.  I want to be absolutely sure I know what I'm doing.

Edited January 14, 2018 by Gina

[Gina]

Looks like most things can be set up using the  RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool  which I've gone partly through.  I've got to the XYZ calibration stage so need to take some measurements as my printer is not using timing belts.  Not a problem - XY is based on drum size and Z axis on gear ratio as well.  Looks like setting up the Duet should be easier than with Marlin.  Initially it looked complicated (like Marlin is) but the online tool seems to do it all for you.  The more I deal with this board the more I like it   Looks like a lot of good work has gone into developing the Duet

[Dr_Ju_ju]

Well its' four now....

Got the basics going using the configurator, but, be very careful with things like fans and any case lights etc. as they are enabled differently and can even be 'reversed' using the gcode configuration, especially if you are using 24volt power supply, as I managed to sink a lot of current through a diode resulting in some smoke

I'd recommend using one of the PWM\Fan outputs, to 'play' with the settings.

[tekkydave]

9 hours ago, Gina said:

Looks like most things can be set up using the  RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool  which I've gone partly through.  I've got to the XYZ calibration stage so need to take some measurements as my printer is not using timing belts.  Not a problem - XY is based on drum size and Z axis on gear ratio as well.  Looks like setting up the Duet should be easier than with Marlin.  Initially it looked complicated (like Marlin is) but the online tool seems to do it all for you.  The more I deal with this board the more I like it   Looks like a lot of good work has gone into developing the Duet

The configurator is a good place to start and gives you a set of working config files.

It's also worth upgrading your board to the latest firmware (1.20). Instructions on the duet wiki.

[Gina]

The wiki seems to give instructions for Windows only - can the Duet be set up from Linux, does anyone know?  I do have one Windows machine left - a laptop running Win 7 so I can use that if necessary for setting up.

Edited January 15, 2018 by Gina

[tekkydave]

I have had no problems. To connect via usb to initially set up the WiFi connection I used the serial monitor from the Arduino IDE.

[Gina]

So it behaves like an Arduino then?  What type of board did you set the the Arduino IDE?  And any other info most welcome

[tekkydave]

My config files if they help at all:

 

config.g

homex.g

bed.g

cancel.g

homeall.g

homex.g

homey.g

homez.g

pause.g

resume.g

sleep.g

stop.g

tfree0.g

tpost0.g

tpre0.g

[tekkydave]

It doesn't matter as long as the port is set correctly. Just start the Serial Monitor and you can use it as a terminal to the Duet. You might have to adjust the baud rate.

All the config is done by sending g codes with the right parameters as per the wiki.

Edited January 15, 2018 by tekkydave

[Gina]

Thanks Dave, I'll try that

[tekkydave]

The alternative is to find a terminal program for Linux that lets you connect via the usb port. I thought the arduino serial monitor was a quick & dirty solution for a 10min job. Once your Duet is connecting to your WiFi everything else is done via the Web Control interface.

[Gina]

Does that include uploading the .g files?  I've downloaded the set for my Mini printer set up with the Configuration Tool for my printer (as near as I can - with a guess or two).