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Recommendations please for CCD/CMOS for non-permanent set up.


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Been faffing about with the asi 1600 for about 6 months now and, yes, the files are huge. Not sure about usb2 and 3 being much the same: what I have found though is connecting with firecapture, APT or sharpcap. It's taken quite some time but I think that once the program does find the camera, it may loose it's way now and again but generally links up quite well. Gotta stick at it. Also, you could get a Seagate expansion box. I have, and dump everything into it, freeing up as much space as poss on the laptop.

Phil  

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3 hours ago, carastro said:

Personally I think the drop in FOV from the DSLR to an Atik 314 (414) will be too big a shock.  I did this myself to start with and ended up re-selling the 314 and bought a large format Atik383.   However there are issues with that too, such as the shutter which makes flats slightly more complicated and unless you are an expert at sorting out spacing and tilt issues, I got a lot of problems with the corner stars with mine, it also requires larger and more expensive filters, plus I found it rather too noisy for my liking.  I didn't particularly find the files took a long time to download though.

I later decided to re-purchase an Atik314 to get some of the smaller targets and found this so much easier to use, no problems with the corners, shutter or noise.  So I am going to suggest you consider the Atik 460EX, which is half way between the 314 and 383 with all the benefits of the 314 chip, doesn't need larger filters.  That's what I use now having sold my Atik383.  

I agree entirely with Olly's comments,

it's what I do with Baader filters which are supposed to be par focal.  Many people poo poo this, but I have compared focus in all channels, and there is occasionally a slight difference in one filter, but IMO this only is an issue with star sizes, which with processing can be dealt with.  I don't have an auto-focusser and set up a complete run. 

You might find you need to bring your laptop to the scope whilst setting up initial focus, and then take it back to your warm room and let it run.  (I'll probably get shot down for my comments on focus, but it seems to work OK for me).  

Carole 

 

Thanks for your thoughtful comments and suggestions, Carole. In line with your recommendation it might be worth my considering the bundled Atik One Six with integrated filter wheel. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/atik-cameras/atik-one-60-atik-gp-and-atik-oag-kit.htmlIt's the same chip as in the Atik 460EX I believe. 

I've tried the bringing the lap top to the scope malarkey. USB cables tend to pull out or disconnect momentarily which usually gives the software a fit of the vapours requiring a PC shut down and bringing everything up again. 

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I've tried the bringing the lap top to the scope malarkey. USB cables tend to pull out or disconnect momentarily which usually gives the software a fit of the vapours requiring a PC shut down and bringing everything up 

Lol, well when you haven't an LCD screen outside to look at the only other way to do it is with an electronic focuser then.  I've tried (in the past) the kit on the patio and sitting indoors, and I had to turn the laptop round so i could see it through the window.  But any other way would be pretty impossible without electronic focuser.  I must admit I do tend on the whole to do most things manually, and just use a Bahtinov mask and my fingers to tune the focus, handset to find the target, but I do sit indoors and watch everything come in via Teamviewer so i don't have to sit outside all evening (I don't have a warm room in the obsy).  

I am not familiar with the Camera you suggest, but I am sure others will be, and hopefully it is the right choice for you.  Atik is a good brand, and an integrated FW seems a good decision.  

Glad you decided on Mono, it really is the best for detail, you will be pleasantly surprised at how much more detail you will pick up.  

 

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If the long lead for the SW Auto Focuser doesn't work out HitecAstro's DC Focus unit does a bang up job of giving you ASCOM/USB connectivity and control.

I used one for about 3 years with no problems but like Carole I have now reverted to my digits to focus the lenses on my widefield rig :happy11:

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