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Hi All - I'm fortunate to have a EQ6R Pro that has been in residence for about a year (unfortunately predominately hidden in garage due to weather and forest fire conditions for most of the year). The few times I've had it out, I've failed to get a proper Polar Alignment. I've used all the tools Sharp Cap, PoleMaster, Plate Solving and so on.
My main issue has been once I'm within a couple of degree's I can get it to position no better. Fine adjustments on both RA and DEC give cause to jump around. I've watch every video/help show and finally have to admit defeat (hopefully short lived).
The EQ6R Pro has the same issues the EQ6 has (with northern latitudes). RA adjustments are just as horrendous no matter how sensitive I try to be.
The EQ6 had some tools created for it that one could purchase (RAIL Kit) that seemed to solve one of my issues (unfortunately not available for the Pro).
My question is: Has anyone else experienced this and if so how have you addressed it. I'm at that place where I'm thinking on replacing this mount if I can't resolve it and the next step is quite more expensive.
Having looked at the various options on the market for a pillar mount, there was nothing that suited my setup so it would easily fit under the motorbike cover (or clamshell cover). So with a visit to my local scrapyard and a bit of machining and bolting together, it is possible to build a very stable mount (600mm tall) out of scrap aluminium. It may appear a bit rustic (can always paint it), but it won't rust and I get to spend the £200+ saved on other things! If anyone is interested in the specs of the creation, say so and I'll post them up.
I have a major problem with a heq5 mount
I have both a synscan hand controller and the WiFi adapter, both with problems
The HC when powered on the backlight comes on but no text and nothing happens when I press any of the direction keys
The WiFi the SSD come up with ESP_xxxxxx and the app can’t connect.
So I tried a borrowed syntrek controller which didn’t do anything either.
ive tried a different power supply and different leads
There is no sound from the mount at all, it looks like the mount has died.
Has anyone got any ideas of a fix?
Hi guys I have a few questions
I've recently upgraded to an ASI533mc pro from a DSLR. As I am living in the southern hemisphere and in bortle 6 light pollution, I don't have site of Sigma octanis to get a rough initial polar alignment and previously found that using the reticle feature on my DSLR live view with the synscan polar alignment routine, I could get quite accurate polar alignment in 5-10 minutes (180second unguided subs with around 80% keepers, I don't trust the estimates but under 2 arcminutes generally) My initial setup is usually 3 or 4 degrees out in azimuth.
I had a go with phd2 PA last night without much luck, I'm assuming because my initial setup was more than a couple of degrees out. I'm happy to just use the synscan routine as I can complete it quickly enough and achieve a good enough alignment, especially now that I'm guiding, and it would seem I would have to run a few iterations of it anyway to get my initial setup close to simulate you lucky northerners with your bright polaris in the polar scope. So my question is, what is a decent piece of software with reticle live view to use with my Asi533mc pro? I currently have NINA, ASI studio and PHD2 installed and I couldn't figure out how to superimpose a reticle last night.
Also, Sharpcap pro seems to be the most commonly recommended software for polar alignment. However I am using an SCT telescope and a smaller sensor camera so my field of view doesn't meet the requirements stated by sharpcap. Has anybody tried using Sharpcap pro PA at 1500mm and 945mm (f6.3 reducer) with any success?
Besides drift alignment, which would take longer than the synscan routine for me, are there any other pieces of software that I should try that won't cost an arm and a leg?
I'm running an HEQ 5 with a Celestron 6se using an Asi533mc pro imaging cam with an ASI290mm mini on a ZWO OAG for guiding.
I'm open to suggestions for other software to use for imaging, I only installed NINA because the functionality and price point is amazing, and it gets rave reviews.
Thanks in advance wonderful people!
No questions but thought my experience with PA using Sharpcap and a Canon 800D might be of help to some.
Although I thought I was nailing Polar Alignment with a polar scope on my Fornax Lightrack, I could not get longer subs than 150secs. I considered buying a Polemaster but I thought was a bit pricey, so looked at a small guide scope and a webcam solution with Sharpcap which was a good bit cheaper.
Researching Sharpcap and DSLRs, I read that PA might be possible with my WO ZS73 (430mm) main scope. I needed to install the ASCOM platform and then the DSLR Camera Setup for Ascom and, of course, Sharpcap. Sharpcap recognised my 800D camera and I completed an "Excellent" PA within minutes. On the first night I managed 180sec subs and experimented with 240sec - all nice round stars. How far can I go? I had done a manual PA first which was a fair bit off from the Sharpcap PA, so not as nailed on as I thought!
I'd rather not be using a laptop but I can't argue against the results.
I hope that might be useful for some.