Travel Setup for Imaging larger DSOs

[Andyb90]

Hi Everyone,

I'm interested in putting together a travel setup for imaging larger DSOs. I'd like to include my asi1600mm cool camera in the setup, perhaps with a mini filter wheel.

I'm not too sure about scope/lense and a suitable mount so any advice and/or recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks, 

Andy.

 

[darknight]

well I don't think you can go far wrong with an 80mm ed, you don't mention price range but if not an ed then a triplet, for such a light setup you will get away with an heq5, I recommend a zwo 60mm guide scope as well, small and light 

[MattJenko]

 

Here is my travel setup. StarAdventurer mount with a TS60ED and an ASI1600 with the x0.79 reducer. Massive field of view.

[Andyb90]

Having looked at some other threads I'm leaning towards a lense. The Samyang 135 looks good, although I'm not sure if I'd prefer the extra focal length of say a Nikon 180.

I've seen that ZWO do adapters for Canon and Nikon lenses which attach to their filter wheels and would provide the correct spacing. I'm also thinking of trying a set of ZWO LRGB filters as they seem reasonably priced. From what I can see they would be okay at f2.8 although not sure about f2. 

For the mount goto appeals to me so I'm thinking maybe an EQ3 pro. I'd probably only need do 30 to 60 second exposures maximum.

Would be interested to know if anyone has put together a similar setup with lens, filter wheel, ccd/cmos and light weight goto mount.

Andy.

[Tommohawk]

Have used EQ3 pro with Tamron 300mm + DSLR and 60mm guidescope and Dell Inspron 11-  works fine.

But surprising how the weight builds up - you need to do your sums carefully especially if travelling by air.

[Andyb90]

On 22/04/2017 at 22:57, Tommohawk said:

Have used EQ3 pro with Tamron 300mm + DSLR and 60mm guidescope and Dell Inspron 11-  works fine.

But surprising how the weight builds up - you need to do your sums carefully especially if travelling by air.

What length exposures do you normally do with the EQ3? Do you guide it?

I just ordered a Nikon 180 and I'm wondering if camera lenses will have any issues if dew settles on the body of the lens.

Do you need to cover the lens in some way or is it not a problem if dew settles on the lens body?

I'll have a dew band and heater to keep the front lens clear.

Andy.

[Tommohawk]

I've had some good experimental results from the EQ3 - but my two trips abroad both got clouded out so not extensive experience.

Unguided works OK on bright targets like M42 - from memory I think at F2.8 I can do 2 mins unguided, and with fairly short exposures you get plenty of them so can afford to discard a good few. But I'm expecting to guide for most targets, especially if using filters. That said I'm using a DSLR - with your ASI1600 you may get away with shorter exposures (unless doing narrowband) and maybe with a 180mm lens you could go unguided for most targets - see what others say.

TBH you may get away with Star Adventurer mount like MattJ above especially if not guiding.

The Tamron lens has quite a decent hood so dew hasn't been an issue but TBH it hasnt really been put to a severe test. I might knock up a DIY heated band. Regarding dew ingress I believe some lenses are classed as weather sealed where otheres arent - not sure about your Nikon.

PS as a special favour I'll swap my EQ3 for your Avalon linear if you like!

[Andyb90]

11 hours ago, Tommohawk said:

I've had some good experimental results from the EQ3 - but my two trips abroad both got clouded out so not extensive experience.

Unguided works OK on bright targets like M42 - from memory I think at F2.8 I can do 2 mins unguided, and with fairly short exposures you get plenty of them so can afford to discard a good few. But I'm expecting to guide for most targets, especially if using filters. That said I'm using a DSLR - with your ASI1600 you may get away with shorter exposures (unless doing narrowband) and maybe with a 180mm lens you could go unguided for most targets - see what others say.

TBH you may get away with Star Adventurer mount like MattJ above especially if not guiding.

The Tamron lens has quite a decent hood so dew hasn't been an issue but TBH it hasnt really been put to a severe test. I might knock up a DIY heated band. Regarding dew ingress I believe some lenses are classed as weather sealed where otheres arent - not sure about your Nikon.

PS as a special favour I'll swap my EQ3 for your Avalon linear if you like!

Good to know the EQ3 has produced some good results. I'm planning to keep the exposures short. I looked at the Star Adventurer, but really like having GOTO. Although I realise it's a compromise as trackers are the most portable option.

I think the Nikon lens isn't weather sealed so will look at using something like a waterproof sock or gaiter as a diy lens 'jacket/coat'.

I did actually wonder if travelling with the Linear would be a possibility, but think I'd be a nervous wreck!

Andy.

[RichLD]

I use 2 Nikkor ED180s in a dual rig. The built in lens hood is useful but can be loose - use a rubber band or silicone wristband behind it to keep it extended. Also, I find I get better star shapes and less CA if I stop it down slightly - I use a couple of step down rings to get the front aperture to around f3.5 which improves the performance noticeably and avoids diffraction artefacts on bright stars.

I've never had any problems with moisture ingress and find a couple of dew bands stop the from element misting up, although a neoprene or similar jacket wouldn't hurt. 

They are as good as everyone says they are, you're going to love it, especially with a camera like the ZWO!

HTH

Rich

[Andyb90]

On 25/04/2017 at 07:39, RichLD said:

I use 2 Nikkor ED180s in a dual rig. The built in lens hood is useful but can be loose - use a rubber band or silicone wristband behind it to keep it extended. Also, I find I get better star shapes and less CA if I stop it down slightly - I use a couple of step down rings to get the front aperture to around f3.5 which improves the performance noticeably and avoids diffraction artefacts on bright stars.

I've never had any problems with moisture ingress and find a couple of dew bands stop the from element misting up, although a neoprene or similar jacket wouldn't hurt. 

They are as good as everyone says they are, you're going to love it, especially with a camera like the ZWO!

HTH

Rich

Thanks for the tips. Looking at the step down rings I'd need a 72-52 ring to achieve f3.5 approx (180/52 = 3.46). Is that correct?

Andy.

[RichLD]

Hi Andy

Yes, a 72 to 52 step down ring will do you. I also have a 52 to 48 so I can use my 2" filters in front of the lens if required, although I sometimes get reflections on bright stars when using my Hutech IDAS D1 filter when doing this. 

[Andyb90]

On 25/04/2017 at 07:39, RichLD said:

I use 2 Nikkor ED180s in a dual rig.

I thinking about how best to mount the lens. How do you mount yours? Do you use guide scope or tube rings?

I have a set of William Optics 90mm tube rings, but they may be a bit heavier than necessary so I'm wondering if guide scope rings would be better. I'd secure them to a dovetail bar.

Andy.

[RichLD]

4 hours ago, Andyb90 said:

I thinking about how best to mount the lens. How do you mount yours? Do you use guide scope or tube rings?

I have a set of William Optics 90mm tube rings, but they may be a bit heavier than necessary so I'm wondering if guide scope rings would be better. I'd secure them to a dovetail bar.

Andy.

I use the Geoptik adapters, although they don't leave enough back focus for a filter wheel. I've attached pictures so you can see how they look. The scope ring on the right hand side is to support the weight of the lens and helps prevent focus creep.

HTH

Rich 

[Andyb90]

23 hours ago, RichLD said:

I use the Geoptik adapters, although they don't leave enough back focus for a filter wheel. I've attached pictures so you can see how they look. The scope ring on the right hand side is to support the weight of the lens and helps prevent focus creep.

HTH

Rich 

Good to see how you do it. I like that the scope ring helps to maintain the focus point. I'm thinking then of using a couple of 100mm guide scope rings to secure the lens on a dovetail. I've ordered a zwo Nikon adapter which will allow use of the zwo filter wheel and asi1600 with the lens. From what I can see the backfocus should be okay.

Andy.

[Andyb90]

I got the zwo Nikon adapter and attached it to the 180 ed. Just wondering if the silver coloured parts of the lens mount and adapter, shown below, need to be blackened to avoid reflections or if that's not necessary.

Andy.

[GuLinux]

@MattJenko lovely setup!

I already have the ASI 1600mm, filter wheel, star adventurer, and a Samyang 85mm.

I was thinking of buying the TS50ED too, to have a bigger focal length. Have you tried using it without the focal reducer? What maximum exposure is possible with that focal length and that mount, unguided?

 

[MattJenko]

I get 30 seconds pretty easy at 3"/pixel with no real damage to the subs. Never needed longer subs and never tried it without the reducer. Here is an unguided M31. 30 secs Lum, and 10 secs RGB taken from Kelling Heath last year which shows the FoV possible at 260mm FL:

 

 

[GuLinux]

That's stunning, thank you

If you ever try without it, let me know  

[Tommohawk]

Matt that's excellent - how many subs I wonder? 

[DaveS]

Seriously thinking of getting a Star Adventurer myself. Looking on the FLO site ZWO do a mounting ring for their ASI 1600 and a Canon adaptor with the right spacing for the 5-pos FW, so that's all I'd need to buy. Put a Canon adaptor ring on my Leitz 180mm f/3.4 Apo and I'd be away. Checked the FOV, it'd get the whole of the Cygnus Loop or the Heart and Soul.

Not sure of the best way to PA though, as I don't want the extra expense of a polefinder camera.

[GuLinux]

2 minutes ago, DaveS said:

Seriously thinking of getting a Star Adventurer myself. Looking on the FLO site ZWO do a mounting ring for their ASI 1600 and a Canon adaptor with the right spacing for the 5-pos FW, so that's all I'd need to buy. Put a Canon adaptor ring on my Leitz 180mm f/3.4 Apo and I'd be away. Checked the FOV, it'd get the whole of the Cygnus Loop or the Heart and Soul.

You probably have the ASI 1600-cool, as many do... In case not, just be aware that the non-cool version doesn't need an adapter, there's a hole in the back for standard photo thread

2 minutes ago, DaveS said:

Not sure of the best way to PA though, as I don't want the extra expense of a polefinder camera.

 

The polar scope of the star adventurer is quite clear and very easy to use, I usually just use a Polar Finder app on my phone, and that's it.

Some astrophotography software also have a polar alignment tool you might use (KStars/Ekos, for instance, requires only RA motor for assisted polar align).

[DaveS]

Thanks, yes I have the MM-Cool version. I'll probably load up 4 of the FW spaces with my Astrodons and leave the other with an L filter for framing.

I'll have another look at EQMOD on my laptop. I used to use it to PA my HEQ5 so I'll see if it works with the SA.

[Helen]

14 minutes ago, DaveS said:

Thanks, yes I have the MM-Cool version. I'll probably load up 4 of the FW spaces with my Astrodons and leave the other with an L filter for framing.

I'll have another look at EQMOD on my laptop. I used to use it to PA my HEQ5 so I'll see if it works with the SA.

 

Sharpcap has a polar align routine 

[MattJenko]

22 hours ago, Tommohawk said:

Matt that's excellent - how many subs I wonder? 

Thanks - 229 x 30secs L and 90 x 10 secs for each RGB. 

[DaveS]

19 hours ago, Helen said:

 

Sharpcap has a polar align routine 

Thanks Helen. It looks like it needs s guide 'scope which I'm not planning to use, though I may have missed something.