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Autoguider and Guide Scope


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44 minutes ago, carastro said:

I know nothing about statistics, I just do what works.  The skywatcher finderscope on your 150PDS will work OK as a guidescope, I had one and that's what i used.  No need to buy a guidescope and worry about how to mount it.  Just need a guide camera and the relevant  finderguider adapter.

My 150PDS came with a 6x30 finder - but I read elsewhere on here it isn't suitable for guiding. Also, I couldn't find an adapter to attach a camera anyway.

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Oh gosh, no, I didn't realise it came with a 6 x 30 finder.  

I must admit I use my SW finderguider from another scope because it already had the camera fitted.  But in any case the foot size is the same, so if you can get hold of a 9 x 50 SW finderscope that can be used as a finderguider, nice and light, cheap and no problems mounting it. 

Carole 

 

 

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4 hours ago, carastro said:

I know nothing about statistics, I just do what works.  The skywatcher finderscope on your 150PDS will work OK as a guidescope, I had one and that's what i used.  No need to buy a guidescope and worry about how to mount it.  Just need a guide camera and the relevant  finderguider adapter.  

If FLO can't help I know a retailer who does them but as they are Sponsors of this site I should not post up another retailer.  

Image I did with it.  Bright stars are a bit squiffy as the focusser protruded into the  tube too much as it was the 150P version.  N.B.  These are 900sec subs, so you can see the guiding was OK. 

724f5bab0ee62f3233bd09c776b43cd7.1824x0_

Carole 

Yes your absolutely right I just had trouble getting the adapter as mine is 30mm in diameter. 

Thats a great picture. What is it? I wouldn't mind trying that myself but it looks like you used h alpha and sii? I don't have any filters like that yet. 

Gerry 

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It's Melotte 15, the centre of the Heart Nebula and yes is it narrowband.   You can image it in broadband too, though not so sure if it is so defined in LRGB.

Carole 

 

 

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When using the Skywatcher finderscope as a guider, what do you do about the single spring loaded 'finger' which works in opposition to the two nylon alignment screws? This is a nifty arrangement for making a finder easy to align but it's the last thing you want on a guidescope, which needs to be rigidly mounted to avoid differential flexure.

Olly

 

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51 minutes ago, ollypenrice said:

When using the Skywatcher finderscope as a guider, what do you do about the single spring loaded 'finger' which works in opposition to the two nylon alignment screws? This is a nifty arrangement for making a finder easy to align but it's the last thing you want on a guidescope, which needs to be rigidly mounted to avoid differential flexure.

Olly

 

Substitute a stronger spring. The spring itself isn't the issue as long as it is strong enough to always overcome the weight of the guidescope - once you have added on the extra weight of teh camera.

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21 minutes ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Substitute a stronger spring. The spring itself isn't the issue as long as it is strong enough to always overcome the weight of the guidescope - once you have added on the extra weight of teh camera.

Hmmm, spring loaded guidescope? :eek: Not for me. Didn't they make a version without the spring?

Olly

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4 hours ago, ollypenrice said:

Hmmm, spring loaded guidescope? :eek: Not for me. Didn't they make a version without the spring?

Olly

Obviously not an engineer ;-)

Two rigid supports and a sprung one are potentially more reliable than three rigid supports in this application.

If there is no give in the system at all, temperature changes could potentially allow the guidescope to come loose, whilst a suitably stiff spring would guarantee to keep it secure against the two fixed points.

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1 hour ago, Stub Mandrel said:

Obviously not an engineer ;-)

Two rigid supports and a sprung one are potentially more reliable than three rigid supports in this application.

If there is no give in the system at all, temperature changes could potentially allow the guidescope to come loose, whilst a suitably stiff spring would guarantee to keep it secure against the two fixed points.

Not an engineer by profession but I don't use guide rings either, for the reasons you imply. I use fixed tube rings, bolted down hard.

Olly

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Just to say to all that last night I auto guided for the first time. I do have to be honest though and say it took me 3 hours to work with PHD2 and then the line graph jumped over all the place. Not sure if it was right but I managed 4 subs of 420 seconds of the Markarian Chain and the stars seem perfect. Hopefully it's right. The only problem I have now is meteorites! Anyway I hope that guiding is not always going to be long winded. Thanks for all the help. If you know of the settings for PHD2  let me know. 

 

Gerry 

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On 5/17/2017 at 10:36, Gerry Casa Christiana said:

Just to say to all that last night I auto guided for the first time. I do have to be honest though and say it took me 3 hours to work with PHD2 and then the line graph jumped over all the place. Not sure if it was right but I managed 4 subs of 420 seconds of the Markarian Chain and the stars seem perfect. Hopefully it's right. The only problem I have now is meteorites! Anyway I hope that guiding is not always going to be long winded. Thanks for all the help. If you know of the settings for PHD2  let me know. 

 

Gerry 

It does get faster as you become more confident in your mount. You are learning each time. Tiny steps, small adjustments as you go along.

I'm usually up and running in 30 minutes or less. That is with a 2 Star alignment + 4 more calibration stars. 6 Stars has worked very well for me all along. (Celestron AVX mount) I go the extra mile for the assurance I've done as much as I can to eliminate human error. :wink:

The graph in PHD2 can be "adjusted" with the x, y, and Settings. One of the first things I look at in a PHD post is what somebody has those settings at. With an x = 400, and a y = 16, anybody can get a 'flat line'. But it's BS.

The bitty-bobbity, boo, is reference. A steadier more bulls-eye in the target window tells me more.

But even with jittery indications, great images can be gathered. The proof in the pudding is how long an image can be gotten with fairly round stars.

Just be patient, and do the best that you can do. Sometimes I have spent my entire time working at the alignment. Doing over and over, learning.

If I can do it, anybody can. (19 ea - 600 second images. Comet Johnson C/2015 V2)

 

Johnson 19 frame.gif

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  • 2 years later...
On 20/05/2017 at 16:30, SonnyE said:

The graph in PHD2 can be "adjusted" with the x, y, and Settings. One of the first things I look at in a PHD post is what somebody has those settings at. With an x = 400, and a y = 16, anybody can get a 'flat line'. But it's BS.

You can also make great guiding look crap by setting Y=4 🙂

image.png

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