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Last night I could do my first test with a Raspberry controlled HEQ5 mount. Worked much better now compare with all problem I had one year ago. I succeeded to: Plate solve, auto focus, take images. What's left to fix, auto guiding, GPS module to communicate.
Tonight it looks to be a clear night too. I will do a new test run, concentrate me on the auto guider, now in the beginning I use the internal guider, later maybe I change over to PHD2. Very exiting.
My setup of HEQ5 and a 300 mm Pentax 645 lens:
Selling the Sky-watcher r.a. motor drive for eq2/cg3 mount.
I was using it on my Celestron Astromaster 130eq. I was able to do some astrophotography with it, 15-20 seconds exposure time.
Price £27 plus postage
Payment method: PayPal, family and friends method or commercial and buyer will pay fee 3% extra
Hi to all.
The most popular mounts - even those that are included in the small-medium range group, do drive the axes rotation via worm wheel coupling .
This one are plagued by the drawback that I have always considered very unpleasant: the mechanical play is not properly controlled and it can’t be always limited within acceptable tolerance limits.
The adjustment of Back Lash (BL) is entrusted to two screws (more often they are grains) usually positioned at 180 ° from each other. However - as we all know, even a wheel very slight eccentric creates
an inconstancy of contact with the worm: when the play is adjusted for an initial position of the axis, it is not in other positions.
In other words, there are positions where the worm rotates with adequate friction, others in which the same friction can increase significantly, and still others where it is so reduced to the point
that it causes excessive play.
So, the tuning screws are sometimes too tight and sometimes too loose … mission impossible to find the right compromise!
This behavior is already annoying in manual movement because the task of pointing at an object in a steady way is not feasible because it ever 'jumps'.
In photography it's even worse.
Not only does an unavoidable backlash often appears in Dec – and it is very badly correctable also by the autoguider software, but- and it is dirty worse, the tracking in RA does not perform evenly
and smoothly. The typical ‘micro’ irregularities in star images is what we see in our shots.
Many high range mounts adopt different methods to contain lashes, and the best ones adopt mechanical systems with which that error is reduced to zero.
With this long introduction, I will tell you what very simple modification I thought of making on my HEQ5.
Please, stay tuned 🙂
Please forgive me in advance for my newbie and potentially frustrating question here!
I have got an HEQ5 mount for my skymax 180 that I was given for Christmas. We have tried following many YouTube videos and reading what we can to get this set up and polar aligned and feel like we are missing something fundamental as when we go to then star align with the GOTO remote, it points at the floor instead of the moon or the star we are trying to align to. So far we have used 5 freezing nights of trying to do these things to no avail and it is rather frustrating and extremely disappointing!
So I am wondering please, what is the best way for me to actually set this thing up so we can finally enjoy using the scope? Do I need to have Home position sorted before I've aligned so once we have (hopefully) done that then we can navigate everything easier? Is that potentially what we are missing?
With lockdown i dont have a handy shop to visit or anyone else that knows how to do this and while I am sure patience is a virtue, I feel so overwhelmed by it all! Any advice or recommendations on what to watch or do to help us are gratefully received!
Again, I am sorry for being such a newb, I am hopeful once we crack this it will become second nature over time! Thank you!