AZ4 Mount grease/lube

[davyludo]

Managed to get a second hand AZ4 mount (steel leg version) for just under £100. It's in really good condition so I'm super excited...although, obviously it's now raining all weekend (sorry folks, totally my fault if you're missing out observing).

Anyway, the only minor issue was that the altitude axis would kind of stick and I'd get a hop/jump due to the pressure I was applying to get it to move. Once it was moving it was fine, just seemed to be if it had been sitting in the same position for more than 5 or 10 minutes. I had noticed some other people mention this and said that applying new grease helps. 

I dismantled the mount and found it was quite dry inside (old grease had gone tacky) so applied some new grease and the difference is unbelievable! I just used some lithium stuff I had left over from car tinkering days...but I'm now wondering whether there's something better. 

 

My question is - is there a type of grease that anyone would recommend as being good for telescope mounts?

 

Cheers,

Davy

[Dave In Vermont]

As I work on people's bicycles when needed, I have quite a bit of experience with greases and their longevity, as well as amount for proper application. So here you be -

I suggest SuperLube with Teflon® (PTFE) available at many hardware stores, bike-shops, and on-line. See image below. I've found this same stuff in the very high-stress and torque 'bottom-bracket' on bicycles that hadn't been serviced in 20 years. This is the part of a bicycle with the pedals coming through - which gets the toughest workouts - and the old grease was SuperLube and it's still working perfectly! That is enough for me - it's the grease I'll always keep on hand.

When you use grease, use the least amount to get the job done - a very thin layer. People tend to think that if a littles' good, more is better? No! Any excess will migrate into places you don't want to have grease on it. Like your scope. Use a very thin film and wipe-up any excess. Your gear will thank you.

Enjoy!

Dave

 

 

 

[Alan64]

Yes, Dave and I have mind-melded once again. 

I lost my small tube of Super Lube.  I think it fell into the trashcan whilst I wasn't looking or paying attention.

I then got the much larger cartridge...

I think it'll be a lot harder to lose that one.

Yes, Super Lube is great!  I've used it on my CG-4 equatorial; and this microscope that had gone through a fire, and during its reassembly after I had taken it completely apart and cleaned it...

 

It doesn't require much when applying.  I use a larger hog-hair artists' brush myself.

 

[davyludo]

On 04/03/2017 at 01:07, Dave In Vermont said:

As I work on people's bicycles when needed, I have quite a bit of experience with greases and their longevity, as well as amount for proper application. So here you be -

I suggest SuperLube with Teflon® (PTFE) available at many hardware stores, bike-shops, and on-line. See image below. I've found this same stuff in the very high-stress and torque 'bottom-bracket' on bicycles that hadn't been serviced in 20 years. This is the part of a bicycle with the pedals coming through - which gets the toughest workouts - and the old grease was SuperLube and it's still working perfectly! That is enough for me - it's the grease I'll always keep on hand.

When you use grease, use the least amount to get the job done - a very thin layer. People tend to think that if a littles' good, more is better? No! Any excess will migrate into places you don't want to have grease on it. Like your scope. Use a very thin film and wipe-up any excess. Your gear will thank you.

Enjoy!

Dave

 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Alan64 said:

Yes, Dave and I have mind-melded once again. 

I lost my small tube of Super Lube.  I think it fell into the trashcan whilst I wasn't looking or paying attention.

I then got the much larger cartridge...

I think it'll be a lot harder to lose that one.

Yes, Super Lube is great!  I've used it on my CG-4 equatorial; and this microscope that had gone through a fire, and during its reassembly after I had taken it completely apart and cleaned it...

 

It doesn't require much when applying.  I use a larger hog-hair artists' brush myself.

 

Thanks for the advice gents - I shall get a tube of this ordered. The lithium grease has made quite a bit of difference, but I'd rather just change it out now for the better stuff. 

It'll give me the chance to take things apart again....I like taking things apart and it keeps me out of trouble when it's raining or cloudy 

[Dave In Vermont]

Nice job on the microscope! I've never worked on one of those. Yet.

Hmmm...

Dave

 

PS: Davy - one caveat here. When you remove the other grease - the lithium-stuff - really remove it completely. Mixing two types of grease can result in it's changing character in some unexpected and often dreadful ways. Like becoming a hard, plastic-type material, or a viscous liquid that will drain on the worst things to drain on!

I wipe it off as best as possible, then use a clean rag soaked with some toluene or xylene from the hardware-store - then remove any trace of it.

[davyludo]

2 hours ago, Dave In Vermont said:

Nice job on the microscope! I've never worked on one of those. Yet.

Hmmm...

Dave

 

PS: Davy - one caveat here. When you remove the other grease - the lithium-stuff - really remove it completely. Mixing two types of grease can result in it's changing character in some unexpected and often dreadful ways. Like becoming a hard, plastic-type material, or a viscous liquid that will drain on the worst things to drain on!

I wipe it off as best as possible, then use a clean rag soaked with some toluene or xylene from the hardware-store - then remove any trace of it.

Hi Dave, 

Thanks for the extra info - I was actually just thinking about what to use to clean it off. I probably didn't fully clean off the old "stock" stuff before I put the lithium grease on. So I'm hoping that if I take the time and clean it all properly before applying the Super Lube, then I should notice a MASSIVE difference. 

Thanks for your help chaps! 

Davy

[Louis D]

6 hours ago, Dave In Vermont said:

I wipe it off as best as possible, then use a clean rag soaked with some toluene or xylene from the hardware-store - then remove any trace of it.

Be careful with these solvents.  They will dissolve certain plastics.  A friend used xylene to remove sticky glue residue from his car's dash and ruined it.  The plastic-like material it was made of discolored and partially dissolved.

[davyludo]

Would isopropyl alcohol do the job?

[Louis D]

I always start with Goo-Gone which is mostly a light oil to dissolve whatever is there.  Since it leaves a residue, I follow up with either window cleaner and/or iospropyl alcohol to get rid of that.  None of these three will dissolve anything.  Only in the most extreme situations do I resort to using xylene or MEK.  Both are effective but aggressive.

[davyludo]

1 minute ago, Louis D said:

I always start with Goo-Gone which is mostly a light oil to dissolve whatever is there.  Since it leaves a residue, I follow up with either window cleaner and/or iospropyl alcohol to get rid of that.  None of these three will dissolve anything.  Only in the most extreme situations do I resort to using xylene or MEK.  Both are effective but aggressive.

Awesome, thanks for the advice Louis 

[Louis D]

Just now, davyludo said:

Awesome, thanks for the advice Louis 

No problem.  I shouldn't have said that Goo-Gone dissolves "whatever" is there.  What it really does is loosen and make more fluid whatever is there.  It does a poor job on sticky residue, but just fine on oily, greasy, tar-like messes.  I've used it to help remove dried out lubricants in the past.

Xylene really does excel at removing sticky adhesive residue, but use it strictly on glass, ceramics, and metals.  I was concerned about the bearing surfaces of your mount being made of PTFE or similar.  Many fluid heads use it internally to provide a smooth, non-sticking motion.  After reading up on PTFE, though, it appears to only be dissolveable by perfluorinated solvents which are not generally available to the public, so I may have been overly cautious.

[iapa]

would a domestic steam cleaner remove 'stock' 'lubricant' on the mount, and/or lithium/teflon based lubricants?

[Louis D]

2 hours ago, iapa said:

would a domestic steam cleaner remove 'stock' 'lubricant' on the mount, and/or lithium/teflon based lubricants?

I doubt anything using water as a solvent is going to loosen non-ionic lubricants.

You didn't hear it from me, but back in the 70s, my family used gasoline in a shallow dish to soak super greasy/dirty chains for several hours/days to get them clean.  Such approaches are highly frowned upon today for multiple reasons.  I only bring it up because extended soaking of parts in a solvent is the ultimate way to remove crud.

[Alan64]

I've used charcoal-lighter fluid, the kind for grilling outdoors, to clean old grease off and out.  It works wonders in that regard, and is safe for all materials and surfaces.

You might be surprised as to just how many of those little bottles of this brand-name cleaner and that are actually and essentially the same thing.

I use old toothbrushes and coarse artists' brushes with the fluid to clean, gear-teeth for example; and paper towels, rags and cotton-swabs soaked with the fluid for other areas.  You can also use 91% rubbing-alcohol in addition for certain areas.  After cleaning with the fluid, wipe away the excess and allow to evaporate.  Despite the fluid's relatively low-odor, always use any cleaning fluid in a well-ventilated area.

Never use acetone, especially on plastic.  There are only certain instances in which to use acetone.  For instance, if you modify a plastic part, and rough and jagged edges are left, acetone will smooth them out.  You then "paint" the acetone over the plastic.  For example, when I flocked my 150mm f/5 Newtonian all the way up to the outer edge of the aperture, the dust-cap would no longer fit.  As it was, and before the flocking, the cap would snap shut, like it was never to be removed...

It now glides in and out, butter-smooth, and will not fall out.

Such is a rare instance in which acetone is useful with astronomical equipment.

[Dave In Vermont]

Charcoal lighter-fluid works well. I also use Gum-Out carbuerator-cleaner (spray-can). Contains toluene - same as some types of glue. But I'd be cleaning metal-parts. Probably not advisable on plastics. But whatever you use, just use a rag and remove the stuff after your item is clean. Don't just leave it there to sit.

And be certain your work area is well-ventilated - like outdoors. You don't want to be breathing this stuff - like some idiots do to "catch'a buzz, dude!" It cuts off oxygen to the brain - same effect as drowning.

"With heroin, you get hooked. But 'huffing' glue will get you stuck." - Lenny Bruce

 

Dave

[Alan64]

Charcoal-lighter fluid dissolves grease almost instantly, and adhesives, especially that left behind after the removal of duct-tape.  It behaves similarly to mineral spirits, and is harmless to plastics.  It is petroleum-based, and therefore flammable, so care should be used in that regard.  I've found that I've needed nothing much other, really, within my tinkerdom.

Best of all, you get a lot within a single bottle, and it's cheap to boot.

[iapa]

14 hours ago, Louis D said:

I doubt anything using water as a solvent is going to loosen non-ionic lubricants.

You didn't hear it from me, but back in the 70s, my family used gasoline in a shallow dish to soak super greasy/dirty chains for several hours/days to get them clean.  Such approaches are highly frowned upon today for multiple reasons.  I only bring it up because extended soaking of parts in a solvent is the ultimate way to remove crud.

sorry did I hear something

Did the same thing myself - in a cold garage of a winter evening; had to keep going outside to be able to breathe

[Louis D]

I didn't hear nuttin'.

[Alfian]

Inspired by this thread, I set too with my AZ4 this pm as there was a bit of stiction. What a difference! Smooth as silk now. Thanks guys.

[davyludo]

11 minutes ago, Alfian said:

Inspired by this thread, I set too with my AZ4 this pm as there was a bit of suction. What a difference! Smooth as silk now. Thanks guys.

Stop making me jealous! My super lube seems to have gone missing in the post...I was planning on stripping the AZ4 down today  

Although today I went and bought a box to transport my telescope in....so still some sort of astronomy related success today!