HELP - T ring cold welded to new camera!!!

[michaelmorris]

Last night I was testing out spacings and adaptors for my new Atik 460EX camera.  I added a 3mm T ring into the train next to camera and forgot to add a Delrin ring first.  Now I can't remove it!! I've tried a pair of grips but it won't budge.  Ideas please.

[Davey-T]

Don't use grips  it will distort it and jam it, first just try holding it it your hand, surprising what a small temperature change can do, try the sole of a trainer pressed against it to get some purchased.

Dave

[AndyH]

Rubber gloves most often do the trick.

 

Andy

[AndyH]

As recommended by those Borg folk

https://digiborg.wordpress.com/2015/08/12/borg-90fl-binoscope-borg-tools/

 

I don't have posh gloves, I use the kitchen marigolds

[zicklurky]

A trainer with rubber soles is my tool of choice, works every time on the most stuck bits.

Back when I started astro I used a pair of grips on a stuck filter, it's completely warped now.

[Alien 13]

As the people above have said, even pressure either with the palms of your hand or trainers or best of all a table tennis bat.

Alan

[BXRO]

Try putting it in the fridge (around 4°C) or even the freezer (around -18°C) see if that helps, don't forget to wrap it up to prevent condensation

[JOC]

Can you wrap an elastic band around the outside of the ring - it might help to get a grip on it.  You can also buy a jam-jar opener that has a rubber adjustable strap on it which might also help.  However, scientifically I'm with the temperature change guys, a few ice cubes in a plastic bag wedged inside the ring for a minute or so might help.

[Davey-T]

Before you put it back together lubricate it with something, I use this from Wickes just a small amount wiped on with a cotton bud does the trick.

Dave

 

[steppenwolf]

'Marigolds' and Armstrong but don't hold the ring tightly as this can deform it and make it grip even harder - fingertips through the kitchen gloves and a light touch will do it.

[JOC]

You would have to be incredibly careful in this instance not to deform the ring, but sometimes a light tap in the direction of turn against the side of stuck object can also work.  Another thing carefully worth trying would be to try and get some fine oil (Like WD40) into the joint with a cotton bud.  I am a veteran of freeing up stuck items having spent formative years freeing up all manner of ground glass stoppers when doing laboratory work, there are lots of things to try, but a difference of temperature is the one that most often bears fruit in my experience.

[PhotoGav]

Arrrgh, I feel your pain Michael, I have often struggled with a stuck T-ring on my QSI. It is infuriating. The last time this happened I popped it in the fridge for about ten minutes, then gave it the Marigolds treatment and it did come free. I rather like the table tennis bat and trainers ideas though - I will be trying that next time. Don't go at it with the pliers though, however tempting, it will cause more harm than good even if it does get the ring off. Good luck and I look forward to reading the report that says you have freed the pesky blighter!

[Eric the Halibut]

Hello,

I had exactly the same problem with my 490ex and the safest solution was to use a strap wrench - very cheap on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Baby-Boa-Constrictor-Strap-Wrench-Jar-Lid-Opener-Undo-Open-/231411340712?hash=item35e130d5a8:g:ez4AAOSwnDxUgHPK   and works every time.

Rgds,

Alex

 

Avalon Fast Reverse Mount; TS 130 Photoline; Skywatcher ED80; ES CometCatcher; Astromodified Canon 1100D; Canon 700D; Atik 490EX; ZWO 224MC

[astro mick]

Disposable rubber gloves usually works.

[michaelmorris]

Thanks fior the advice guys

I tried the fridge for 30 mins, then gently heating the outer part of the camera with my hand, then pushing a trainer on the ring - nothing, not a sausage.  

In the end I lost patience and very gently mangled the damn thing out!   

I now have a camera that is can be kept the right distance from the focal reducer and a piece of scrap metal!  I'm sure this isn't the recommended method and it does mean I've trashed a 3mm T ring, but at least it's sorted. 

I've ordered some more Delrin rings from FLO.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/adapters/baader-t2-delrin-spacer-ring-set.html

 

 

[AndyH]

You sir, are the proud owner of a rare and collectable Salvador Dalí  T-Ring !

[michaelmorris]

13 minutes ago, AndyH said:

You sir, are the proud owner of a rare and collectable Salvador Dalí  T-Ring !

I'll fish it out the bin and send it off to Christie's for a valuation.

[steppenwolf]

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhh!

I feel better now. Michael, no offence mate but if I ever offered to lend you any of my gear to try out, I hereby withdraw that offer .......

[Davey-T]

Use some lubrication next time 

Dave

[DaveS]

I've started to use original Turtle Wax following Olly's advice.

I've had a few cold-welded components in my time but nothing that bad .

[Merlin66]

I keep reminding members.....

Before this happens to you....just smear the thread lightly with boot polish. This has worked extremely well for the past twenty years.

DON'T use WD40, Vaseline, grease etc. etc. These products can soften/ melt/ de-gas and cause even more expensive problems to your optics.

 

[michaelmorris]

2 hours ago, DaveS said:

I've had a few cold-welded components in my time but nothing that bad .

I've never had anything stuck that fast either.

The problem was exacerbated by

1 -  The T ring was just 3mm high so it was difficult to grip.

2 - I really didn't want to apply much force to the head of the camera.

3 - My initial attempt at (gently) loosing the T ring with a pair of grips may have distorted it a little.

In the end I decided to sacrifice the T ring in order to make sure I didn't damage the camera.  I know it doesn't look it, but the force applied to bend the T ring was actually applied very slowly and gingerly. I needed to get at least two parts of the ring at roughly 90 deg from each other to start bending inwards in order to release the opposite edges from the female thread on the camera.

I considered cutting the ring, but I really didn't want to risk damaging the camera or swarf hitting the window over the imaging chip.  Spraying in some form of releasing agent (such as WD40) into the thread right next to the window over the imaging chip was never an option.

The combination of Delrin spacers and a very small amount of boot polish (thanks for the tip Merlin66) should hopefully prevent a re-occurrence.

[Uranium235]

10 hours ago, michaelmorris said:

Last night I was testing out spacings and adaptors for my new Atik 460EX camera.  I added a 3mm T ring into the train next to camera and forgot to add a Delrin ring first.  Now I can't remove it!! I've tried a pair of grips but it won't budge.  Ideas please.

Glad you got it sorted mate. Remember what I did for that chap at SGL XII? Yep... rubber gloves or recently ive been using some rubberised riggers gloves that a gas fitter left behind a few months ago (blummin good they are too!).

But, when that wont shift it - I have been known to hackaw two notches in the thread and use a bit of steel slotted into the notches to apply the turning force. Much like the notches you get in a Baader MPCC T-thread - actually... I dont know why more manufacurers dont employ that design, its really useful.

So in future, either get the boot polish out, and/or use a delrin spacer. 

[michaelmorris]

1 hour ago, Uranium235 said:

But, when that wont shift it - I have been known to hackaw two notches in the thread and use a bit of steel slotted into the notches to apply the turning force. Much like the notches you get in a Baader MPCC T-thread - actually... I dont know why more manufacurers dont employ that design, its really useful.

So in future, either get the boot polish out, and/or use a delrin spacer. 

As I said, with 2 mm max to play with, I didn't fancy putting a hacksaw blade so close to the camera.