Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_lunar_landings.thumb.jpg.b50378d0845690d8a03305a49923eb40.jpg

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have always had an interest in astronomy/stargazing. Looking up into a clear night sky wondering what it would be like to be out there is always a summers night pass time favorite of mine. Although, having a high interest in this area as a child I became otherwise engaged in other activities like playing console games, and then more recently raising my own young children. However, my interest in astronomy and stargazing has since returned and I have recently wanted to begin looking into the night sky with a telescope. I am a complete novice when it comes to this and just wondered what would be a good beginners scope. I have recently been interested in buying the Celestron Astromaster 130EQ. I have read numerous reviews about this scope and everyone says that its really good scope for beginners. I have looked at images that people have taken through this scope using additional filters and lenses and I am more than impressed with what can be achieved.

I am completely new to telescopes and wouldn't really know where to start. I had a low-grade telescope as a child, branded National Geographic which was great for looking at the moon with, it came with 2 lenses. I still have it but would prefer a 'more advanced', 'more profesional' scope.

Any help/tips would be great. I have a maximum budget for this of £250GBP  but could stretch to £300GBP 

Thanks all.

 

Edited by watevacoward

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my favourite sky objects are open star clusters and globular clusters. In which case, I wouldn't settle for anything less than an 8-inch Newt.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, Merlin said:

my favourite sky objects are open star clusters and globular clusters. In which case, I wouldn't settle for anything less than an 8-inch Newt.

I think this would be a little out of my price range....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

a skywatcher 150p dob if you happy with doing mainly vis but you can still image with it " moon, planets, brighter dso" or a skywatcher 150p on a eq5 mount if you want to beable to take longer exspsures, you would also need a tracking motor on the RA . clear skys, charl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, watevacoward said:

Hi,

I have always had an interest in astronomy/stargazing. Looking up into a clear night sky wondering what it would be like to be out there is always a summers night pass time favorite of mine. Although, having a high interest in this area as a child I became otherwise engaged in other activities like playing console games, and then more recently raising my own young children. However, my interest in astronomy and stargazing has since returned and I have recently wanted to begin looking into the night sky with a telescope. I am a complete novice when it comes to this and just wondered what would be a good beginners scope. I have recently been interested in buying the Celestron Astromaster 130EQ. I have read numerous reviews about this scope and everyone says that its really good scope for beginners. I have looked at images that people have taken through this scope using additional filters and lenses and I am more than impressed with what can be achieved.

I am completely new to telescopes and wouldn't really know where to start. I had a low-grade telescope as a child, branded National Geographic which was great for looking at the moon with, it came with 2 lenses. I still have it but would prefer a 'more advanced', 'more profesional' scope.

Any help/tips would be great. I have a maximum budget for this of £250GBP  but could stretch to £300GBP 

Thanks all.

 

Newer 130/650 astromasters don't have parabolic mirrors anymore AFAIK. If you can get an older one, that would be better. On /r/telescopes they even suggest removing it from the sticky for beginners, as the build quality went downhill. You are much better off with a 130p dobson, like AWB Heritage, or Skywatcher Heritage, or go up a notch and buy somthing with an aperture of 150mm. Dobson mount is much more stable in this price range, than lousy EQ mounts are. Yeah, it does not look as cool as an EQ mount with all those turnknobs, bits and pieces, but it is much more functional.

Also, if the pockets are not too deep, check out used telescopes here
don't hurry, sometimes there are really really nice scopes on astro classifieds for nice prices and imho you are much better off with a used decent scope than with a brand new grocery-store-quality scope.

Edited by kilix
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, kilix said:

Newer 130/650 astromasters don't have parabolic mirrors anymore AFAIK. If you can get an older one, that would be better. On /r/telescopes they even suggest removing it from the sticky for beginners, as the build quality went downhill. You are much better off with a 130p dobson, like AWB Heritage, or Skywatcher Heritage, or go up a notch and buy somthing with an aperture of 150mm. Dobson mount is much more stable in this price range, than lousy EQ mounts are. Yeah, it does not look as cool as an EQ mount with all those turnknobs, bits and pieces, but it is much more functional.

 

So what your saying is, that a band new Celestron Astromaster 130EQ isn't as good as it either seems or used to be?
Honestly, Celestron is the only brand I am aware of, however whilst looking over multiple forums, websites, reviews the brand 'Skywatcher' keep cropping up. Are they better than Celestron overall? or does it depend on the buyers intentions for the scope/mount etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cut my astronomical teeth on the Astromaster 130EQ and though it got me going, for which I am very pleased, looking back it was a frustrating time and found more negatives than positives, so would advise against it. If you particularly wanted a scope like that then I would go for the Skywatcher version which looks similar but is a better package. https://www.firstlightoptics.com/reflectors/skywatcher-explorer-130p.html

However, Kilix's  comments about the Heritage 130P are bang on. It is so easy to use by comparison, has the same focal length and aperture, has a parabolic mirror and a usable finder. It is so easy to deploy and packs away into almost nothing compared to an 130EQ setup. Yes you do need some kind of  wall, garden table or other firm support to bring it up to the necessary height, but I think one contributor here sits on a small seat and has it mounted on an upturned bucket. If low tech' works use it! Optically the 130 Heritage can certainly provide surprisingly good views. Neil English on his own web site waxes lyrical about the abilities of the "little" Heritage 130, its worth looking up.

All that said, if you can muster the extra money for the bigger 150P it will be money well spent. You will get an F8 scope which will be easier on eyepieces, will be much easier to collimate and it has a 2" focuser which will give you a better choice of eyepieces  when you inevitably get round to buy a few more. It would I think be an all round more satisfying scope to own.

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/dobsonians/skywatcher-skyliner-150p-dobsonian.html

Edited by Alfian
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

Hello and welcome to SGL

For visual purposes then your best scope to go for is the skywatcher 200p. This is reflector scope on a Dobson mount. These scopes are tried and tested on this forum by many members and get great reviews. This scope will have enough aperture for DSO and also perform great on planetary and lunar. The 200p skywatcher will be a great scope for the beginner and take you into the intermediate stages of the hobby. And will be within your budget especially if you buy second hand. These scopes do come up in the sales section on this SGL site and can be a great bargain for the novice. Great bang for buck telescope 

I hope you like the above and it helps☺     

   

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are very similar and some of the scope sold by both share everything except the brand name.  In my opinion the question you have asked cannot be answered with the info you have given.

Many here are into photography using a telescope and therefore have a totally different need to those who just observe the sky.

I do think you need to decide if photography may be something you want to have a go at and also the budget you have. Dont worry its not like we are going to empty your wallet for you it just helps other give you better advice.

It may also be helpful to know if you are going to travel to a site to use the scope or if your using it in your back garden.

 

Cheers and welcome.

 

Spill.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

8" dob...its the U.K.'s best selling starter scope...and for a reason, the views you get are fantastic and can bet set up in 10min tops....welcome along from up the road...where abouts are you?

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Timebandit said:

 

 

Hello and welcome to SGL

For visual purposes then your best scope to go for is the skywatcher 200p. This is reflector scope on a Dobson mount. These scopes are tried and tested on this forum by many members and get great reviews. This scope will have enough aperture for DSO and also perform great on planetary and lunar. The 200p skywatcher will be a great scope for the beginner and take you into the intermediate stages of the hobby. And will be within your budget especially if you buy second hand. These scopes do come up in the sales section on this SGL site and can be a great bargain for the novice. Great bang for buck telescope 

I hope you like the above and it helps☺     

   

read this...then read it again!...good advise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
37 minutes ago, watevacoward said:

So what your saying is, that a band new Celestron Astromaster 130EQ isn't as good as it either seems or used to be?
Honestly, Celestron is the only brand I am aware of, however whilst looking over multiple forums, websites, reviews the brand 'Skywatcher' keep cropping up. Are they better than Celestron overall? or does it depend on the buyers intentions for the scope/mount etc.

The company that owns and makes Skywatcher scopes has for the past few year also owned the Celestron brand. Dissapointing that the Astromaster does not now have a parabolic mirror, if that is the case.

I would check out the scopes on the First Light Optics website - they don't tend to sell poor quality stuff:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes.html

A 6" dobsonian telescope would give you good performance with some future potential and is within budget. An 8" would be even better !

Welcome to the forum by the way :icon_biggrin:

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello and a warm welcome to the SGL. I too would recommend the Skywatcher 8 inch Dobsonian. A great way to start out.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi. Do consider where you will store any telescope and where your observing location is. If there are stairs between the two it won't take much to put you off bothering to observe in our fical weather. The best telescope for you will be the one you'll get outside to use.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, watevacoward said:

So what your saying is, that a band new Celestron Astromaster 130EQ isn't as good as it either seems or used to be?
Honestly, Celestron is the only brand I am aware of, however whilst looking over multiple forums, websites, reviews the brand 'Skywatcher' keep cropping up. Are they better than Celestron overall? or does it depend on the buyers intentions for the scope/mount etc.

exactly. If you cannot get an older model, of which you are certain that it was made during it's parabolic era, then don't buy celestron astromaster. Even then, don't buy it. There are better scopes for that price.

Skywatcher, Orion and Celestron scopes are nowadays made by a chinese company named Synta and they are all the same essentially.

Amateur astronomers everywhere would advice you to buy the biggest behemoth that you can afford, but bear in mind @happy-kat's advice. Take transport into account. 10" dobson sure is nice and all, but if you cannot be arsed to haul it outside and it gets used twice in a year, then that was not the best buy.
Where is your observational site? Do you have a garden with no streetlamps blasting it with light? Or do you need to transport the scope with a car or do you plan to transport it in a backpack? Sure as hell you wouldn't carry a 25kg 10" dob in a backpack :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
29 minutes ago, happy-kat said:

Hi. Do consider where you will store any telescope and where your observing location is. If there are stairs between the two it won't take much to put you off bothering to observe in our fical weather. The best telescope for you will be the one you'll get outside to use.

A most valid point indeed!

As stated by someone around these fora - the best telescope is the one you'll use the most often. Also factor in, at least where I live & observe from, it should be a scope you can quickly take down and get it to shelter - when the unplanned-for black-thunderhead decided to make an un-announced appearance.

The 'Weather-Gods' are full of fun, little surprises for us scope-folk! :p

Dave

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many end up with more than one score, is finding the balance as a beginner for the telescope that will feed your interest.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, kilix said:

if you cannot be **** to haul it outside

choose your words a little carefully pls...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What about either a 6 inch dob or a Heritage 130p? Both doable with your budget  (change back with the second option), both optically good and easy to use. Alternatively maybe a 130p on an eq3. If it were me I'd go for the 6 inch dob. Billy.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Heritage 130P is a surprising telescope, the views have been VG and if extreme portability is required its a good option. The larger 150mm f8 and 200mm f6 would be an excellent choice and I would personally lean toward the 200mm f6 dob.

Edited by jetstream

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A good reflector hard to beat - good for planetary views and good for DSO's, no false color and relatively cheap - i agree with above, 150-200mm reflector will give you loads of opportunity to see if the hobby is for you - second hand is not a bad bet as a lot of good quality equipment is out there and not much risk of issues- best wishes Tony.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, consider also that a 130mm Newton on equatorial mount is not very comfortable to use.

I suggest the Skywatcher Dobson 150p, which costs more or less the same, is far more immediate and comfortable to use, has better performances and requires less maintenance; a in fact reflector needs to be collimated, but the slower its f-ratio, the less care you need for collimation - and f8 (the 150p) is far slower than f5 (the Astromaster 130).

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
20 hours ago, watevacoward said:

 

Any help/tips would be great. I have a maximum budget for this of £250GBP  but could stretch to £300GBP 

Thanks all.

 

I was in the same boat as you a few months ago and this site was fantastic for advice. After debating about all different kinds of scopes I finally went for the Skywatcher 200P Dobsonian which can be bought at the top end of your budget brand new although I went for a second hand one so I could have a bit of cash spare for accessories. I am so happy I got this telescope, it's so easy to use and from my garden shed to my garden it takes about 5 minutes to set up and start viewing and also takes that time to put away. It's big and bulky though but that hasn't got in my way so far...... Hope this helps.... Scott

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tend to say get a half decent small scope that you will use. Nothing big and nothing fancy. Half the choice is the mount these days, they arew tending to go over to the electronic side. So you need to decide on that and likely more thought then on the scope.

If you want and are hally with a manual one then one of the Alt/Ax mounted Celestron refractors - reason for a refractor is that you and the eyepiece are at the right end to play with the mount adjustment bits.

If you want a reflector then go get a 150P dobsonian. A dobsonian is simple in some ways but they also have a learning curve. One person about 2 years ago catagorised them as a "specialist scope", meaning I presume that you first had to learn to use one before they produced the views and viewing expected.

Just do not get a scope you do not really want, as then you will not use it and give up. Seen it done too often.

ES do a nice small 80mm refractor package but it is not available here, US only as best I can tell, also cannot see it in any of the EU retailers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ A very portable telescope will always find a space in the car for trips away or to visit family etc. even when you have a bigger telescope.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Florence
      I just made an account on here so I could ask this! I have been trying to install the camera driver for a NexImage camera (for a NexStar 6SE telescope) on my Windows 10 computer, but since I bought this telescope in 2004, everything is out of date. The problem is when I plug the camera into the computer at the same time as having the NexImage downloads disk. The instructions say that when this happens, a "Found New Hardware" wizard should appear, and I just follow the prompts to download it. However, this is not coming up. My computer recognises the camera is plugged in, but for some reason it only recognises it as an audio device. 
      I have tried downloading a driver from the Celestron website, but none of them seem to recognise the camera is plugged in. The model no. is #93712, if anyone knows how to fix this problem.
      Thanks, Flo
    • By Wavseeker
      Ladies and gentleman, 
      Thank you for helping me in advance. 
      As a kid I've always been fascinated with the sky and what was in it. The nights sky is filled with beautiful stars and nebulae and I want to see them for myself and be amazed how insignificant we really are compared to this vast open space. So let me adress some of the key points that I want for a first scope.
      1. Around €1000
      2. Big aperture, I want to see as much as possible and as far as possible while not losing a clear image
      3. I would like to have a push to or go to system
      4. Beginner friendly
      5. Size is not a problem 
      8. I prefer reflectors since it seems they give more aperture for the money but if you know a better scope that sees more with less aperture let me know
      9. I have a Canon 550D and maybe I could use this for a bit of astrophotography. This is last on the list tho and can be scrapped if the first 3 points aren't met
      Of course build quality is very important when making my choice so keep that in mind as well.
      I'm looking forward to you guys advice. 
       Happy stargazing and clear skies! 
    • By GavinC
      Hello,
      Does anyone have any experience or knowledge about whether it's possible to mount alternative OTAs with a dovetail or rings to the mount that comes with a Celestron Nexstar 80GT?  In particular I am wondering about attaching a SW Heritage 130P?  I know that Celestron did a 130mm reflecting 'scope on his mount, but it looks to also have that plastic tube clamp, seen on the 80mm image below.
      Thanks,
      Gavin

    • By orfest
      [A few more photos are in the imgur album]
      Made this telescope for observing sunspots. The Sun gets projected onto a piece of paper after bouncing from 3 mirrors inside the frame.

      It's compact, light, takes only a few seconds to point at the Sun, and sketching sunspots is as easy as circling the spots on a piece of paper.

      It can even project the Moon:

      The design is inspired by a commerically available telescope, but I’ve done all the designing myself, just for the fun of it.
      Sunspotter is full of little details that make it interesting. How do you fix the eyepiece in the exact place where it needs to be? How do you keep the lens in place and perfectly aligned?
      Building the telescope was a lot of fun, I’ve learned to use a jigsaw, X-Carve and a 3D printer. The plan is to use it to complete the Astroleague Sunspotter Observing Program, but unfortunately I completed it at the minimum of a Sun cycle, and won’t see any sunspots until next year.
       
      Telescope parameters:
      Magnification: 75x Size: 41cm x 41cm x 15cm Weight: 1kg Design: Keplerian Projection size: 75mm Materials needed:
      Lens: Ø52mm f=750mm achromatic doublet Mirrors: 1, 2, 3 Eyepiece: Baader 10mm ortho 1.5m² of 10mm plywood Wooden glue 5m of PLA filament 12 nails Compressed air Isopropyl alcohol Tools I used:
      Jigsaw with a 30° bevel capacity X-Carve 1000 3D printer A laser pointer Clamp Learned modelling basics in:
      LibreCAD Easel TinkerCAD Fusion 360  
      Part 1: Choosing the lens
      The idea of a sunspotter is that the light goes through the lens, travels inside the telescope, bouncing from 3 mirrors, enters an eyepiece and the image gets projected on one of its sides.
      The distance the light travels before entering an eyepiece is the focal length and it determines the size of the telescope.
      I chose a Ø52mm f=750mm achromatic double. Observing the Sun doesn’t require a large aperture, 50mm is more than enough. I wanted a high magnification and went for the longest focal length I could find, which was 750mm. Achromatic doublet design is what people use in refractors. If it is good enough for a refractor, it’s definitely good enough for my project.
       
      With the focal length chosen I could design the wooden parts. A drawing showed that the frame needed to have sides 30cm long, but I wasn’t sure about the placement of the mirrors and went for 31cm sides, planning to shorten the light path as needed by adjusting mirror positions.
      This is the LibreCAD drawing of the layout of parts on a piece of plywood:

      Part 2: Building the base
      Having a drawing of the base in LibreCAD, I printed the drawing 1:1 scale on multiple A4 sheets of paper and glued them together. I transferred the drawing to a piece of cardboard and cut it out.

      Applied this cardboard template to the sheet of plywood, and cut out two parts with a jigsaw.. I’m not an experienced user of jigsaw, and couldn’t manage to cut half-circles accurately enough. Even worse was that the two parts were very different. I didn’t want the frame to randomly tilt left or right when adjusting its altitude, and had to spend a lot of time with sandpaper to make the halves as similar as I could.
       
      Glued the two large parts with three small parts in the middle. Additionally nailed the parts and the base was ready.
       
      Part 3: Frame
      The frame is simply a triangle made of three pieces, with short sides cut at a 30° angle. Most jigsaws can cut at 45°, but not at 30°. Had to buy a new jigsaw with a 30° bevel capacity.
      Cut out three sides, cut short sides at a 30° angle, but didn’t put them together just yet.
      The lens needs to be perfectly aligned with the Sun-facing part of the frame, otherwise the Sun projection isn't circular but elongated.
      My solution was to carve a hole with a little step as shown on the image.

      The inner hole is Ø46.5mm, the outer hole is Ø50.8mm.
      The outer hole is the exact size to let the lens fit, but with a little bit of friction. Had to carve several holes to find the minimal size the lens could fit in.
      The step is just large enough to have enough surface for the glue to keep the lens in place, I didn't want to reduce the aperture too much.
      I used an X-Carve for carving and Easel for modelling.
       
      With all 3 sides ready, I could assemble the frame. It appeared that my 30° angle cuts were not very precise, but after some sandpapering the sides started fitting together alright. Glued the parts together and left them to dry for a day. To apply some pressure on the joints, I wound several twine loops around the frame really tight, made sure all sides fitted well together and left it to dry like that for a day.

      Part 4: Mirrors
      When selecting mirrors I was looking for the smallest mirror that fit the cone of light. Small mirrors are a lot easier to place, and they let me better control the length of the light path. I considered using elliptic mirrors, but they were bulky and really hard to place. All mirrors are first surface mirrors, otherwise planning their locations would be a lot more confusing.
      This was my original plan of placing the mirrors:

      As you can see, all the angles and distances were carefully measured, and I wanted to simply make mirror holders of those exact dimensions. This was clearly a bad idea.
      I 3d-printed some parts like this:

      And only later I realized that the frame angles are not exactly 60°, and that there are drops of glue along the edges that don’t let me fit the pieces deep enough in the joint between the sides.
      I cut angles from all the mirror holders:

      After I put the first mirror in place I realized the angles are all wrong, and that I needed to re-do the holder. Separating the mirror from the holder was a huge pain, which resulted in an accident. The mirror fell off the desk and got damaged.

      Luckily, only the back side got damaged, the front side was still working:

      The final designs of mirror holders looks like this:

      The holes in the front surface let me apply pressure on the back of the mirror if I ever want to separate it from the holder. The recesses collect the excess glue to avoid mirror skewing when gluing them.
      All other holes are simply to save the filament.
       
      Part 5: Placing mirrors
      What I learned is that you can’t plan positions of several pieces with high precision and just hope that it all comes together. I needed a feedback about the precision of mirror positions.
      I used a laser pointer to verify mirror positions at each step.
      In the picture you can see that the laser is firmly set in a hole in another piece of wood, with layers of isolation tape on the tip of the laser pointer to make it stable. A clamp holds the piece of wood in place, ensuring that the laser ray goes in the same direction as a solar ray would. A crosshair of black thread at the center of the lens ensures the laser goes exactly through the center of the lens.


      When placing each mirror, I marked the spot where I expected the laser to end up. While gluing the mirror holder to the frame, I kept the laser as close to that spot as possible. If for some reason, the laser couldn’t hit the expected spot, I did my best with placing the mirror, and recalculated locations of the following mirrors.
      I saw the first sunspots after placing all the mirrors and simply holding an eyepiece in hand.

      Part 6: Eyepiece holder
      I tried eyepieces of different focal length and liked the picture I got with a 10mm eyepiece the most.
      An eyepiece needs to be in a very exact spot to produce a sharp image. At this point it was obvious that my frame doesn’t match the model, and that I didn’t even know what exactly was wrong with the frame. I didn’t want to rely on the model and moved forward with trial-and-error.
      I printed several parts to hold the eyepiece, with different eyepiece locations:

      The part in the photo was a total disaster. It needed quite a lot of filament, at the same didn’t have enough surface area to be glued to the frame, and not enough surface area to hold the eyepiece firmly.
      The next iteration was a lot better:

      This part has a lot more surface area, and needs less filament to be printed. I intentionally printed the hole for the eyepiece too small, and had to sandpaper it a little bit, to make the eyepiece stay firmly fixed.
      Adjusting the focus is done by sliding the eyepiece up and down until the Sun becomes a circle with well defined borders.
       
      Part 7: Dust
      All optical parts should be kept clean. Dust on the mirrors and the lens will make the image darker. Dust on the eyepiece will show up as artifacts on the projected image. Unlike sunspots, the artifacts will not move with the Sun. To clean the eyepiece I used compressed air. To clean the mirrors I used isopropyl alcohol.
       
      Part 8: Fire safety
      Don’t leave devices with magnifying lenses lying around. Once the Sun happened to be in such a spot that its light went right through the lens, burning through the cap of the eyepiece. Luckily, nobody was hurt and no other damage was done.

      Part 9: Future work
      Build quality of the base is very poor. The frame tilts sideways when adjusting its altitude despite all my efforts. I’d like to build a new base, but leave all the work to the machines. I already have a model for an X-Carve to make both base parts, compatible with my current frame:

      A notch along the edge of the half-circle should eliminate the tilt. The precision of the machining should make the base very stable. Maybe next year, when sunspots become a common daily sight, I’ll get to this project.
       
      Thank you for reading this far!
      I hope you enjoyed it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.