Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b83b14cd4142fe10848741bb2a14c66b.jpg

LED Flat Panel Recommendations


Recommended Posts

I use an A3 electroluminescent panel from Earlsmann: http://www.earlsmann.co.uk/lighting-components/electroluminescent-products/el-panels . Unfortunately they don't seem to have the shop part of their website any more, but say that you should contact them on the phone. I seem to remember it costing in the £100 region. It works perfectly.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one of the A3 Huion ones and they are ok, but unless you use a covering on the front it's hard to get a consistent brightness as you keep your finger on the button to change level, so unless fully on you don't know what level it's at. This is fine though if you set the level each time you do flats rather than run a script in SGPro or similar as I do.  The flats produced from it were fine once set up with a couple of layers of tinted acetate and it then just turned on full brightness.

I recently got the one Dave linked to and it is very good, but of course not cheap.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is far easier to take flats as if they are full power it's difficult to get a short enough exposure. Even the dimmable ones need a couple of sheet of plain white paper on the front surface.

I also use a Huion LS4, good value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, RayD said:

unless you use a covering on the front it's hard to get a consistent brightness as you keep your finger on the button to change level, so unless fully on you don't know what level it's at. This is fine though if you set the level each time you do flats rather than run a script in SGPro or similar as I do.

This has gone straight over my head, sorry can you explain this more please? Cheers. Also what acetate did you use on yours?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, bendiddley said:

This has gone straight over my head, sorry can you explain this more please? Cheers. Also what acetate did you use on yours?

Basically if you just momentarily push the button from off, it goes on to the last level, but if you push and hold the button then the light level goes up or down (with each push) linearly until you take your finger off the button.  For my flats I needed 22,000 ADU, so to get this with any degree of regularity I had to tape 2 layers of film over the front.  It works fine, but having the Artesky one just makes it easier as you can adjust using the volt meter.  The other problem is you need to push the button to turn on, so no good for using remotely as it won't turn on just by applying power.

I'll dig out the film I used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, bendiddley said:

This has gone straight over my head, sorry can you explain this more please? Cheers. Also what acetate did you use on yours?

If the light is too bright you can't take a short enough flat exposure, I aim for around 3 to 5 seconds depending on the filter, if you're using a DSLR then you only need one set of flats.

So once you  set an exposure setting of 3 seconds then you alter the brightness of the screen to obtain a correctly exposed flat as measured with APT os other imaging software.

You can buy sheets of semi translucent plastic on EBay or use sheets of copy paper

Dave

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.