Jump to content

sgl_imaging_challenge_6_banner_jupiter_2021.jpg.eacb9f0c2f90fdaafda890646b3fc199.jpg

 

 

m42 stack first attempt with canon 6d any good?


scopekid1325
 Share

Recommended Posts

I see you have some vignetting/gradients on your image. Specialized astro-processing software can take care of stuff like that and do much more to give you better results, the two more interesting ones are the expensive PixInsight (which includes calibration/stacking) and the inexpensive StarTools (requires stacked images).

For the things you can do with Affinity photo, you could improve the color balance, right now you have too much green in the image. Also, depending on how the original data is, you may or may not be able to bring out the core a little better when stretching.

I attempted to adjust the colors, but a final jpg doesn't really give me much to work for, so it didn't come out well, you have to do it from your stacked 16bit image. In the end, colors are subjective, just a matter of preference...

Orion2.jpg

 

Edited by ecuador
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Thanx I  have all images in raw I'll try again must admit the centre is over shot a lot of the images are at ISO 12000 .Do u think I should take some at a lower ISO say 1600 then a few more a little higher and so on up to 12000  to give me a better centre . ? As for affinity photo I have never used any photo editing software before so am on a  learning curve . I only used the basic tools on there . Exposure, .Curves histogram,, etc but I see what I mean  about the green but I quite liked the smokey effect that it showed up . I'll play around again with it again though.... I have a couple more end results so far with more red in them... I used a uhc filter clipin with the camera. And it seems to work well maybe I could send u an,original raw image to see what it should really end up like.  Thanx for taking an interest and replying Colin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd be inclined to use Startools rather than Affinity as it's a dedicated astro processing software, and costs no more than Affinity. Worth trying the demo.

I'm not familiar with the 6D, but ISO12000 seems hellishly high. Contrary to what you might think it's not necessary to go that high; if anything it just limits your DR and makes blowing out the highlights more likely. You don't want it so high that digital gain rather than analogue gain is being used by the camera to get the sensitivity. It's the stacking of many frames that makes up for the feintness of the image.

How many frames did you stack, and what scope and mount are you using, just for reference?

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Thanx I  have all images in raw I'll try again must admit the centre is over shot a lot of the images are at ISO 12000 .Do u think I should take some at a lower ISO say 1600 then a few more a little higher and so on up to 12000  to give me a better centre . ? As for affinity photo I have never used any photo editing software before so am on a  learning curve . I only used the basic tools on there . Exposure, .Curves histogram,, etc but I see what I mean  about the green but I quite liked the smokey effect that it showed up . I'll play around again with it again though.... I have a couple more end results so far with more red in them... I used a uhc filter clipin with the camera. And it seems to work well maybe I could send u an,original raw image to see what it should really end up like.  Thanx for taking an interest and replying Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, The Admiral said:

I'd be inclined to use Startools rather than Affinity as it's a dedicated astro processing software, and costs no more than Affinity. Worth trying the demo.

I'm not familiar with the 6D, but ISO12000 seems hellishly high. Contrary to what you might think it's not necessary to go that high; if anything it just limits your DR and makes blowing out the highlights more likely. You don't want it so high that digital gain rather than analogue gain is being used by the camera to get the sensitivity. It's the stacking of many frames that makes up for the feintness of the image.

How many frames did you stack, and what scope and mount are you using, just for reference?

Ian

Hi I have an evolution 9.25 using 6d at prime focus I tried stacking 12 or so raw images . I realise that 12000 is prob way over what I needed I mixed in A couple of images can at around 1600 . But I've only just got camera and I'm giving it a try I shot some at 25000 and 52000 as well  ..Apart from blowing the middle I didn't think 12000 clone too bad 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, GoodOleJim said:

I envy your ability to do this. Is there a tutorial as to what supplies are needed, and what software is needed to pull photographs like this off? 

 

I'm not new to telescopes, but I'm green when it comes to astrophotography. 

hi i just learn as i go along and if u get stuck just ask questions on forums. i have a canon full frame camera u need a t ring and adaptor to fit camera to telescope 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, scopekid1325 said:

Hi how long was each exposure how many seconds at ISO 400

if memory serves me, they were 300 seconds each at iso 400
my scope is polar aligned using the polar align feature in sharpcap, and mounted on pier, scope was also guided using phd2,

Edited by JemC
add addional info
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, scopekid1325 said:

hi i just learn as i go along and if u get stuck just ask questions on forums. i have a canon full frame camera u need a t ring and adaptor to fit camera to telescope 

Thanks for the info! I assume you have a motor-driven telescope?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 15/02/2017 at 16:35, JemC said:

if memory serves me, they were 300 seconds each at iso 400
my scope is polar aligned using the polar align feature in sharpcap, and mounted on pier, scope was also guided using phd2,

i need to sort a wedge at some point .... if i polar align the tripod / mount will i be able to just put the scope on and go each time .....  as i dont want to polar align each time i go out...... then hopefully i should be able to take longer images for better finished products  colinb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By jacko61
      After some trial and error I'm getting some very good guiding results with PHD2 now. 60mm guidescope and ASI290MM mini camera. The M42 image taken late March was 12 x 15 second exposures taken manually with my dslr / C8 and a stopwatch. Stacked in DSS and played with a bit in GIMP. On the night I couldn't get APT to register the camera - turned out to be the mini USB cable (although later trials point to the socket in the camera being a bit loose too). 
      Bought an iOPTRON iPOLAR that arrived on Friday and had a play with that which has resulted in near perfect polar alignment. 2 star alignment and an additional 2 calibration stars on my Advanced GT mount means I'm getting very accurate GOTOs now and PHD2 (through the ST4 port on the ASI camera) seems to be guiding very well.  Last night after more cable faffing I managed to get everything working together to the point where I felt confident enough to leave it running by itself for an hour and a half (45 minutes of 180 second exposures plus 3 minutes each exposure to save the file - I've since found out I shouldn't have noise reduction switched on in the camera - DOH!) so M51 is 15 x 180 second @ ISO 800 lights and 5 x 180 second darks.  A little manipulation in GIMP and I think it's come out very well. Obviously still have a lot to learn and I'm going to have to start taking much longer exposures  but I'm quite pleased with these 2 pictures. 
      Graeme.
       

       

    • By alexbb
      This is another finished target for this season.
      I (quite) recently bought a TS Photoline 102 ED with FPL53 which performs surprisingly well for a doublet. So I put it to tests and imaging, in parallel with an older FPL51 AstroProfessional 102 ED doublet.
      The blue color correction is much better in the newer TS. I shoot luminance often with both and then take the highlights from the better scope.
      For this image I also used some older data that I had available, shot with a 130PDS, but that maybe only made my life more difficult. Not that otherwise I shot data through the refractors in a single panel with reducers/correctors, but also in 2 panels with no reducing correctors. Same about the RGB. Some shorter exposures from the backyard, some from a dark site, most of the G data from a dark site, B and R from home (clouds came in at the dark site) and a lot of other adventures.
      But in the end I managed to put them all together and made an image out of them.
      You can watch it in full resolution and see other details on astrobin: Great Orion Nebula
      Clear skies!
      Alex

    • By astrobena
      Heres my first ever shot of the Orion Nebula in a Bortal 8 sky (as well as my first nebula). I stacked 52 light frames with Deep Sky Stacker (with dark, bias and flat frames) and then edited the stacked image with photoshop. The Core looks kind of blown out, so I'll need some shorter exposures to combine with this version.
      I've also got a question linked to this: As i'm in a Bortal 8 location (on the edge of London, UK) i feel like i'm kind of limited by the exposure length befor the image just looks completly white/redisch from light pollution. For this photo i used 45 second Exposures but had to bump down the ISO to 200 to make it not look overexposed. In the end, does it really matter if the image looks overexposed due to light pollution because the light from the actuall DSO will still be there and can be filtered out through the power of editing or does this not really work?
      *Any other comments or things i can/should change with the image would be greatly appreciated
      Many Thanks to anyone taking their time to comment!

    • By AstroM1
      Nikon D5100 + WO ZS73 II Star Adventurer Pro 150 x 30 sec + DOF
    • By Nicola Hannah Butterfield
      First image from my new NEQ6 Pro driven mount, all other images before this were static.
      Sky Watcher 200P prime focus, 10x 60's lights, darks, bias and flats. ISO 200
      Bortle 6
      Yes I know there is a plane track through it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.