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PA first and then do the goto alignment. How do you mean rough PA using guidescope? You should only be using the polarscope of your mount to do your polar alignment, ignore whether you can or can't see polaris in any of your telescopes. You are attaching the polemaster to your mount to do your PA and not your guidescope?

I'm no expert when it comes to guiding, but I've read that tolerable RMS is dependant on the equipment you are using. In either case I would assume that the lower the RMS better.  Here was what my graph looked like on a good night, it's not always as flat but RMS was low and the pictures I was getting from camera were not trailing. Perhaps someone with better guidng knowledge can chime in if I'm wrong :D

phd.png

Hope this helps.

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On 1/24/2017 at 19:52, Carl M said:

 

That does help I could only dream of a graph like that at moment. I have set my RA and dec aggression lower at 60-80. How bigger difference that makes? I use guiding assistant for min-mo and backlash, 

How do you balance your scope in DEC

Will insert my next graph if its not to embarrassing :) 

What i mean is i use polar scope to do a initial alignment, to make sure mount is pointing in correct direction. Then i replace it with the polemaster. Then do more accurate polar alignment with polemaster. 

Then do goto alignment with alignment, + calibration stars. Dave are you suggesting that if PA is good no need for alignment stars?

Would imaging/ guiding be far easier with say a 80mm refractor?

Cheers

Dean

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17 minutes ago, gonzostar said:

Then do goto alignment with alignment, + calibration stars. Dave are you suggesting that if PA is good no need for alignment stars?

Would imaging/ guiding be far easier with say a 80mm refractor?

Cheers

Dean

No need for the star alignment process if you're imaging, once polar aligned I GoTo the target then centre and frame it on the camera.

A short focus refractor is a lot easier to image with than a long focal length SCT.

Dave

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On 26/01/2017 at 16:05, Carl M said:

PA first and then do the goto alignment. How do you mean rough PA using guidescope? You should only be using the polarscope of your mount to do your polar alignment, ignore whether you can or can't see polaris in any of your telescopes. You are attaching the polemaster to your mount to do your PA and not your guidescope?

I'm no expert when it comes to guiding, but I've read that tolerable RMS is dependant on the equipment you are using. In either case I would assume that the lower the RMS better.  Here was what my graph looked like on a good night, it's not always as flat but RMS was low and the pictures I was getting from camera were not trailing. Perhaps someone with better guidng knowledge can chime in if I'm wrong :D

phd.png

Hope this helps.

How dis you get your screen shot? Tried to save yesterdays shot of the Himalayas but ended up in a FIT file?

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13 minutes ago, gonzostar said:

How dis you get your screen shot? Tried to save yesterdays shot of the Himalayas but ended up in a FIT file?

You can use the windows snipping tool to capture an image of the screen.

Dave

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Curious, seems to be drifting north and east, may require some fiddling with PHD and make sure guidescope mounting is solid.

M41 is not really a good choice of target lurking low down, I should try something higher up to start with.

Dave

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2 minutes ago, gonzostar said:

Cheers Dave, could that be a balance issue? cable drag 

Next session will post the phd2 screen shot. I secure guidescope as tight as i can

 

Dean

Could be all sorts of things you can only check it all, try taking images at different elevations and either side of the meridian to see if it affects the way the eggs go.

Dave

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Not sure whether you have it activated in PHD2 but it should save and deposit a guide log .txt file somewhere on your computer. If you have the log you can open it with a log viewer and show the graph from there as well as RMS values I believe.

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