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A few bits ordered.


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I just ordered a few bits. a 9mm and a 32mm Celestron Omni Plossl EP's, and a 2x Barlow. As and when I progress further, these will be replaced with better EP's, but they have got to be an improvement over the 10 and 20mm ones supplied with my scope? I'd like a couple of filters for planetary viewing, but they can wait. 

Photography is what I'd love to do. I own a Cannon 60D and a 500D, but I understand that these are not the best to use for this kind of photography. I'll see how well I get on with general observing first before splashing out.

p.s. How do I get to write a signature under my posts? Cannot see the place to do this in my profile page???

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May I suggest buying a copy of the book "Every Photon Counts" it's available from Flo at the top of the page,it will tell you every thing you need to know about the dark art of astrophotography and probably save you a few quid in the process.

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Good tip, thanks. I've promised myself that I will get the basics of general observing under my belt first before branching out to other fields, but the photography is definitely what I'm drawn to. Thanks Jonn

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Try the DSLR's that you have first. Not sure why you say they are not the best but nothing ever is.

All you basically require is 400 or 800 ISO and the option to set it to fully manual. If the rear screen does not tilt don't worry, mine does and is of little use. Would not make a great deal of difference if it didn't tilt at all - as I found out the first time I used it. Pointed it all at the sky, Cassiopeia, put it on "Live view" and all I got was noise, nothing even resembling a star and the black sky was just twinkling pixels, noise I suspect, on the screen. To know if I was pointed at the right area I had to take a 20 second exposure then tell the camera to display that. I was aimed right.

Which reminds me I must get a laser pointer sight for it all.

One item you will require is an intervalometer or Remote Timer as they are sometimes called. Be realistic and do not expect 600 second exposure just go for 40 or 60 seconds. I like 40's as then I set a 20 second wait for a bit of sensor cooling and then start the next. Each then takes 60 seconds. So an hour of that and you have 60 40 second exposures to go play with. Not exactly advanced or pushing the boundries, but easy, and likely the least stressful way of getting going.

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3 hours ago, ronin said:

Try the DSLR's that you have first. Not sure why you say they are not the best but nothing ever is.

All you basically require is 400 or 800 ISO and the option to set it to fully manual. If the rear screen does not tilt don't worry, mine does and is of little use. Would not make a great deal of difference if it didn't tilt at all - as I found out the first time I used it. Pointed it all at the sky, Cassiopeia, put it on "Live view" and all I got was noise, nothing even resembling a star and the black sky was just twinkling pixels, noise I suspect, on the screen. To know if I was pointed at the right area I had to take a 20 second exposure then tell the camera to display that. I was aimed right.

Which reminds me I must get a laser pointer sight for it all.

One item you will require is an intervalometer or Remote Timer as they are sometimes called. Be realistic and do not expect 600 second exposure just go for 40 or 60 seconds. I like 40's as then I set a 20 second wait for a bit of sensor cooling and then start the next. Each then takes 60 seconds. So an hour of that and you have 60 40 second exposures to go play with. Not exactly advanced or pushing the boundries, but easy, and likely the least stressful way of getting going.

Thanks for the tips. The 60D has a rotating/tilting screen. My son has used it more than me (his college media course) and he can help me get it doing what I need so i can learn from him. I gave him my old 500D when my wife got me 60D but he prefers my new one :D

I have a remote release but don't think that it is a timer, so I'll look in the manual settings to see if there is a timer in there.

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