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souls33k3r

ASI1600MM-C on Celestron EdgeHD 8" setup

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Hi All,

I was about to jump on the ASI1600 bandwagon but one thing that i'm not too sure of is the configuration of this setup.

I currently have a 0.7x reducer which will be used with this CCD, i'm looking to buy the ASI1600MM-C along with it's ZWO 8 POS FW and to keep the cost down i am looking to purchased ZWO LRGB set and then save up for Astrodon 1.25" or a 31mm NB set.

So what i know is that as soon as i introduce the reducer, the back focus is brought down to 105mm. 

Can anyone help me with the spacers that are required here? also where will the go in the image train/order of it (pics are always welcomed)

Maybe i've got this completely wrong but i am under the impression that it will be in the below order

 

0.7x reducer > some spacers to cover the remaining back focus > filter wheel > CCD

 

What i was suggested as the spacers is 

http://www.365astronomy.com/Baader-Varilock-46-Lockable-T-2-Extension-Tube.html

 

 

Thanks in advance

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This fall, I bought my first CCD camera for my Celestron EDGE HD 800  -  a ZWO ASI1600MM - Cooled, with their 5 POS EFW  (since they didn't have a 8 POS at the time). Since I'm new at astrophotography, I bought their LRGB filters specific for the 1600MM-Cooled.

I had the same questions as you have and came up with the calculations as follows:

 

With Celestron 0.7x reducer :  105 mm

Celestron T-Adapter:  50mm

Adapter extension (comes with Celestron T-Adapter): 28.5mm

ZWO ASI1600MM-cooled: 6.5 mm

EFW: 10mm

 

Total back focus: 95mm

I bought a set of different T-ring extensions from Telescope Camera adapters for about $USD30. They are really well made and used a 10mm extension ring to make up the needed space (Total 105mm).  Note I have no affiliation with this company but like you were assisted by other astrophotographers.

 

T-ring extension set.png

 

I've just bought a OAG to assist in eliminating flexure from my setup.

 

Good Luck with your ZWO camera - it's great!

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The next person to refer to the ASI1600 as a CCD will get a poke in the eye!

P.S.apologies to the OP, I can't help with the spacing question at all! 

Edited by CraigT82
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Lol,  sorry Craig bad habits mate. 

@fielderda:Ok this is what I was thinking,  the T-adapter for Celestron EdgeHD 8" is 78.3mm which has like you rightly pointed out can be split in to two parts,  one 50mm and the next 28.3mm. Assuming I use the complete set,  below are my calculations and in this order:

Using 0.7x reducer brings the back focus down to 105mm

CMOS (6.5mm) > ZWO EFW (20mm) > Celestron T-adapter for EdgeHD 8 (78.3mm) 

That is 104.8mm...  So I dot think I'll need any extra spacers since I already do own the T-adapter

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This seems a correct calculation since my ZWO EFW (5 POS) is only 10mm accounting for the difference between your 8 POS and mine.

 

 

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I'm a newbie at mono CMOS astrophotography but the LRGB filters for the 1600MM are a good entry level but I've been pleased with them. 

The EFW is excellent is smooth and quiet. The only caution is getting filters that thread properly and are not to thick to impede movement of the wheel. I'm plenty pleased with my ZWO products!

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Nice one mate. Yeah I've seen good results with the LRGB set so far but then saying that I live in a light polluted area so no matter what I choose, it won't be as good as I would've expected, ZWO or otherwise, I wasn't willing to spend more on a good set of them bad boys. 

NB filters is a different ball game, am getting the 1mm thin NB filters which I've be told have proper edges that will a lot in to ZWO EFW nicely. Time shall tell :)

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Here's a first light with my ASI1600MM-Cooled and my EDGE HD 8. Not great, but a good start in my opinion for a newbie.

Full downtown light pollution; LRGB; 30 sec exposure; RGB binned at 2x2; stacked with Nebulosity and finished in PS

Still lots to learn!

 

M27_LRGB_Nov 3, 2016_Processed Nov 26, 2016.jpg

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7 hours ago, fielderda said:

Here's a first light with my ASI1600MM-Cooled and my EDGE HD 8. Not great, but a good start in my opinion for a newbie.

Full downtown light pollution; LRGB; 30 sec exposure; RGB binned at 2x2; stacked with Nebulosity and finished in PS

Still lots to learn!

 

M27_LRGB_Nov 3, 2016_Processed Nov 26, 2016.jpg

Wow! That's not bad at all mate. I am impressed, especially with the LP and then also how pinpoint your stars are. Ok given it was only 30s exposure but imaging what you can achieve with much longer exposure. 

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On ‎27‎/‎12‎/‎2016 at 00:48, souls33k3r said:

Cheers mate, most certainly will be needing that for sure :)

Why are you using a reducer?   Sorry can't get rid of the quote for some reason.

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It's ok mate, not to worry.

Well without the reducer i'll be working at native F/10 and 2032m FL which is going to be very slow and narrow FOV. To give myself a fighting chance a reducer is required to bring the F ration down to F/7 @ 1422m FL. In short, more photons in less time than the native f ratio with better fov

Does that answer your question?

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Oooh,  I think you're going to be seriously oversampled though I see you are binning 2x2.  Good luck - great start :)  BTW Astrodon 1.25" mounted filters work fine in the ZWO EFW mini.

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Gina, that's exactly what the plan is. Unfortunately Astrodon filters were just a tad too much for me so i've gone with the ZWO 31mm LRGB filters and for NB, i've gone ahead with Astronomik 31mm 6nm complete set.

Awaiting delivery so let's see what this brings to the table :)

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I look forward to seeing more of your results - particularly NB as that is my main field of interest :)

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Same, NB is my thing too. LRGB i went for ZWO because no matter which brand i would've went for, i won't be able to achieve better results since i live in a heavily light polluted area. So whatever i can salvage from LRGB, i'll be happy with :)

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The speed of the system is not linked absolutely to the F ratio rule in AP when using reducers. If you are interested in everything that fills the frame then the rule applies in useful way. If your real target is a small discrete object framed by dark sky which doesn't interest you, then the F ratio rule does not apply. (It becomes the F ratio myth.) The photographic F ratio rule is predicated upon varying the aperture.  A focal reducer leaves the aperture where it was and alters the focal length, so it brings in no new light from the discrete object. The two situations are entirely different.

I wonder what the effect of binning really is on this CMOS camera. From what I've read it may bring no increase in signal to noise, in which case why bin at all? More homework needed! I like many aspects of the camera so I'd better get studying.

Olly

Edited by ollypenrice

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Maybe the only benefit is to reduce the amount of data generated.  I haven't tried binning with this camera but I have with the ASI178MM and that didn't seem to increase the sensitivity.  But it was useful for zooming in and focussing as I could image faster over my WiFi link with the Raspberry Pi 3.

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On 25/12/2016 at 16:42, CraigT82 said:

The next person to refer to the ASI1600 as a CCD will get a poke in the eye!

P.S.apologies to the OP, I can't help with the spacing question at all! 

I was thinking the same thing...

Didnt think it was that complicated.. i suppose asking a camera to do 2 separate things complicates the matter a little..

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Just came across this post while looking for something else but found it interesting. I’ve heard that Sony are discontinuing CCD chip production in 5 years time. CMOS seems destined to become the only option but cmos chips are also improving rapidly. Same guy said you can’t bin a cmos chip, it’s done in software hence the lack of improvement in sensitivity. He still thinks the Sony 694 chip is the best he’s used. I’ve got that chip in my QSI660 and have the ASI1600 cmos on my Hyperstar rig. I now feel compelled to try imaging with this on my Edge 8 with the reducer and with the QSI and comparing results. Obviously the field of view will be different but will be interesting to see what results I get. If I can fit it in before the light nights arrive I’ll post some images. I’ll be using Baader filters but not sure wether to go NB or Broadband. I’ll need to see what looks a good target. 

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4 hours ago, Geordie mc said:

Just came across this post while looking for something else but found it interesting. I’ve heard that Sony are discontinuing CCD chip production in 5 years time. CMOS seems destined to become the only option but cmos chips are also improving rapidly. Same guy said you can’t bin a cmos chip, it’s done in software hence the lack of improvement in sensitivity. He still thinks the Sony 694 chip is the best he’s used. I’ve got that chip in my QSI660 and have the ASI1600 cmos on my Hyperstar rig. I now feel compelled to try imaging with this on my Edge 8 with the reducer and with the QSI and comparing results. Obviously the field of view will be different but will be interesting to see what results I get. If I can fit it in before the light nights arrive I’ll post some images. I’ll be using Baader filters but not sure wether to go NB or Broadband. I’ll need to see what looks a good target. 

Id be very interested of the results!

How do you like the 1600 on the hyperstar? Pondering about that for my hyperstar c8hd rig. 

Clear skies!! 

 

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Well, I find binning the ASI1600MM-Cool increases sensitivity considerably!

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