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Anyone used the Optolong 2" LRGB filters for using with a mono camera? Thought as their L series filters are so good that the LRGB set would not have any issues, they're one of the cheapest set also.
There's the Baader ones but I've read about the halos they create, the newer CCD ones released this year also seem to have the same issues.
Looking for recommendations.
I recently spent my Xmas money on an L-Enhance filter as I have seen amazing results with this filter.
I took it for a test run on the Y Cas Nebula last night (not the best night, but when is?)
I managed to get around 43 mins of time.
I normally shoot 1 min exposures with my 1000D modified camera but I thought I'd go for 90 seconds as the filter would reduce brightness? (any thoughts on exposure times here would be great)
The results were not as great as I was hoping for - see below.
O over stretched it just to see if I had captured the 'ghost'. He's there, but it turns out really grainy and not the nice subtle wispy nebula that I see from other folks.
So my questions are:
- is this a tricky nebula target?
- What exposure times should I run?
- Is 43 mins way too little for this (or any) target?
- any other advice???
Canon 1000D - modified
Skywatcher 72ED Telescope
Skywatcher AzGTI mount (AZ mode at the moment until I can get polar alignment working with SharpCap)
Any thoughts, hints, tips greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!
Hi! So Ive found some pictures from an arxiv report in a database which I need for my project and converted them to fits files (The picture on the left). The one that was used in the arxiv report (picture on right) is a zoomed in picture of a galaxy in that picture, where its clearly visible. However when I try zooming in on the exakt coordinates of the galaxy in the fits image, its just plain black. I want the picture "raw", that's why I saved it as fits and not their pdf picture from report. Someone suggested first stretching the image for a more detailed image but some filters had to be used though... the only thing I can find on the tables of the images is that filter F160W was used. I have no idea how to move forward now, completely stuck. Would appreciate some help!
By Anonymous Astronomer
I'm looking to buy some NB filters and wanna make the best decision.
1. Does the size of the filter impacts the quality of the image? (is it a big impact?)
2. I know that lower HBW is best, but... for example: does the difference between 35nm and 7nm is worth the price?
3.Can you recommend some H-alpha, OIII, SII?
Thank you in advance!
First the disclaimer. This is my first attempt to sketch Mars, or indeed any planet. Also, it started to rain and I had to abandon it with some urgency (hence no orientation marker). I used a HB pencil and a blending stump. But I think I can see a couple of features that match Ade Ashford's app.
The Wratten 21 filter improved the view enormously (although you may find that hard to believe looking at the picture) helping show the surface detail and improving the seeing. I tried it the day before in my 80mm refractor, but that just made the image too dim, but on the 115mm it was very good, so I recommend it to anyone with 115mm or larger.
I tried sketching the moon (Plato) several years ago, but SWMBO pronounced it (I'll paraphrase her here) more Feline Anatomical than Selenographical. While this one may look more like a two year's old attempt at drawing a rabbit, at least no one can confuse it with the rear end of the cat. So regardless of the criticism I receive here, I'll give it another go tonight (weather permitting). 🧐