cuivenion Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 When taking darks do I need to take one after every light, or can I do a batch of them at the end of the session? Also should I leave a gap between subs to allow the sensor to cool, and if so for how long? Should I also do this with the darks? I use an Altair GPCAM. Thanks for any help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geordie85 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Dark frames should be taken at the same temp as your light frames. Most people do them at the end of their imaging session. It would be alot more hassle for you of you take 1 light then 1 dark then 1 light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuivenion Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 Thanks, I'm asking because in some cases the darks don't seem to be removing the amp glow, I thought this might be the reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollypenrice Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Losing imaging time to dark taking would not be a good use of time. More subs will always win. You might get a better temperature match from a dark taken straight after a light but one dark will add noise, not remove it. You need a stack. So this being so, doing them at the end is the way. Have you tried ditchng darks altogether? Maybe try a master bias as a dark, dithering between subs and a Sigma stacking routine? Olly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuivenion Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 I'm not guiding yet unfortunately so I can't dither, I've found the sigma stacking works better than the other options even when not dithering. I imagine dithering will have a better effect though. I don't want to start guiding just yet as I'm playing with the mount to try and get the best performance out of it at the moment. If there's a way to dither without guiding I'd try that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alien 13 Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 11 minutes ago, cuivenion said: I'm not guiding yet unfortunately so I can't dither, I've found the sigma stacking works better than the other options even when not dithering. I imagine dithering will have a better effect though. I don't want to start guiding just yet as I'm playing with the mount to try and get the best performance out of it at the moment. If there's a way to dither without guiding I'd try that. I have found that a mount that has erratic PE like my EQ3-2 does a reasonable job at dithering unguided. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollypenrice Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 19 minutes ago, Alien 13 said: I have found that a mount that has erratic PE like my EQ3-2 does a reasonable job at dithering unguided. Alan Yup, that's why the sigma will be working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuivenion Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 20 minutes ago, Alien 13 said: I have found that a mount that has erratic PE like my EQ3-2 does a reasonable job at dithering unguided. Alan Yeah I reckon my mount might be similar lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldemar Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 It maybe convenient for you to make a dark library during daytime if your camera can cool down to the same temperature as when making lights, and combine them to a Master dark. The same goes for Bias Your camera needs to be really shielded from heat sources, so it won't pick up infrared wavelenghts. Just a cap is usually not enough. If you can not reach the right temperature because too high ambient temperatures, you can put your cam in the fridge. Leads in between the door rubbers will cause a slight loss of temperature of your fridge of course. Let them out at the top of the door, cold air tends to go down, because of the higher density. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuivenion Posted October 15, 2016 Author Share Posted October 15, 2016 The cam doesn't have cooling or a temperature sensor I'm afraid, but thanks for the reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alacant Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 7 hours ago, Alien 13 said: EQ3-2 does a reasonable job at dithering unguided Unfortunately not as for dither to work you must move the sensor only between exposures, not during them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waldemar Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 4 hours ago, cuivenion said: The cam doesn't have cooling or a temperature sensor I'm afraid, but thanks for the reply. I did not realise that, sorry... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuivenion Posted October 16, 2016 Author Share Posted October 16, 2016 2 hours ago, Waldemar said: I did not realise that, sorry... No problem, a cooled cam would be nice, one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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