Jump to content

Stargazers Lounge Uses Cookies

Like most websites, SGL uses cookies in order to deliver a secure, personalised service, to provide social media functions and to analyse our traffic. Continued use of SGL indicates your acceptance of our cookie policy.

sgl_imaging_challenge_banner_terminator_challenge_winners.thumb.jpg.6becf44442bc7105be59da91b2bee295.jpg

Recommended Posts

Ok....ill start by admitting that I thought I was imaging the North American Nebula but missed and never noticed it was the Pelican until the processing.

 

4 x 10min, ISO 800 frames, no bias, no flats, no darks. Canon 1000D cooled to -4c at the camera sensor using my home made  DSLR cooler box, CLS clip in filter. 130P-DS with a MPCC MK3.

 

This was first light for my cooled camera and had some teething issues so only for 4 frames before it got light. I am am thinking its quite good considering but not much to reference that against. Also pleased by the noise reduction, not sure darks are required?

 

Would love any comments on how I could better process it etc, as I am still quite new to astro-photography and only really have CS2.

 

 

Pelican-Nebula-Processed-v5.jpg

Edited by Adam J
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, StargeezerTim said:

What a good miss!

Thanks Lol, it was a great night, really clear and i was sat messing about with the cool box. By the time I had the bugs ironed out I just grabbed what I could get :). Here is the full image. 

Pelican-Nebula-Processed-v3.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Adam J said:

Ok....ill start by admitting that I thought I was imaging the North American Nebula but missed and never noticed it was the Pelican until the processing.

 

4 x 10min, ISO 800 frames, no bias, no lights, no darks. Canon 1000D cooled to -4c at the camera sensor using my home made  DSLR cooler box, CLS clip in filter. 130P-DS with a MPCC MK3.

 

This was first light for my cooled camera and had some teething issues so only for 4 frames before it got light. I am am thinking its quite good considering but not much to reference that against. Also pleased by the noise reduction, not sure darks are required?

 

Would love any comments on how I could better process it etc, as I am still quite new to astro-photography and only really have CS2.

 

 

Pelican-Nebula-Processed-v5.jpg

"No lights, no bias, no darks" 

dont you mean "no flats, no bias, no darks" as the subs used are lights...!! :)

Bill

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 minutes ago, RuralBill said:

"No lights, no bias, no darks" 

dont you mean "no flats, no bias, no darks" as the subs used are lights...!! :)

Bill

Oops...Yes that is what i meant lol, ill go back and edit it. :)  Although 4 x light frames is virtually nothing lol.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great image!

In the full frame there is some green in the background that can be eliminated  with HLVG in PS or SCNR in PI.

Since red is the dominant colour, have you tried processing it as a single channel B/W image?

(I tried a quick & dirty approach on your jpeg, but the star reduction that I applied turned out to be a star "dimming". A little too "dirty" to show.)

Edited by wimvb
added

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
30 minutes ago, wimvb said:

Great image!

In the full frame there is some green in the background that can be eliminated  with HLVG in PS or SCNR in PI.

Since red is the dominant colour, have you tried processing it as a single channel B/W image?

(I tried a quick & dirty approach on your jpeg, but the star reduction that I applied turned out to be a star "dimming". A little too "dirty" to show.)

I should be so lucky as to have PI lol. I'll pull the green channel down a little in photo shop.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
46 minutes ago, wimvb said:

Great image!

In the full frame there is some green in the background that can be eliminated  with HLVG in PS or SCNR in PI.

Since red is the dominant colour, have you tried processing it as a single channel B/W image?

(I tried a quick & dirty approach on your jpeg, but the star reduction that I applied turned out to be a star "dimming". A little too "dirty" to show.)

Hows that? .....to be honest it may be a jpg compression thing that looks blue not and its not green or blue in the original tif image....

 

Pelican-Nebula-v3.1.jpg

Edited by Adam J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I might get shot down in flames, but try taking a copy and using levels to set red and blue to black.

Now convert the green image to 16 bit greyscale and do a stretch on it. If it shows extra detail, blend it in as a LUM layer.

You may find a cyan coloured version (a mix of blue and green) shows the most detail.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Xiga
      Back in early Feb I tried imaging Markarian's Chain, but after 2 subs I encountered guiding issues (a first for me) so had to give up. 
      So just for kicks and giggles, I decided to process them! ? 
      So this is 2 x 10mins. With the D5300, 80ED and HEQ5-Pro. 'Stacked' (if it's even right to use that term!) in APP, and processed in PS. Then reduced to 75% for posting. 
      Why oh why oh why..... I honestly don't even know myself ?

    • By Deflavio
      I know DSLRs are more for “official” AP imaging and I should probably stick with my trusty ASI224 or maybe think about a 294 or similar sensors but....as probably many, I have a DSLR sitting at home not doing much. Can I do EAA with it?
       
      Today is quite easy to have 24Mp in relativity cheap bodies so why not to use it somehow? Small pixels..I know, but maybe going for wide field and bright objects with fast lenses it may still work and give something interesting. Anyone tried? Any experience? 
       
      What I really like of EAA is the ability to do everything while observing and without the need to come back for long processing sessions. I have searched around a bit but I can’t find a stacking software like Sharpcap for DSLR doing live viewing as well as stacking. I think I could somehow save each frame in a folder and then stack them with DSS (if I got the name right) but can I then control remotely the camera, exposition and have live preview when slewing around?
       
      Just interested to know if anyone know more about this or more in general discuss about DSLR and EAA.
       
      Flavio
    • By Xiga
      Hi guys
      I'm breaking the cardinal rule here of posting late at night, right after finishing PP, so let's see what sense the dawn brings! ? 
      I shot this in the early hrs of 29th of March. There was no moon present (i think!) and conditions were pretty good, AFAIK. 
      This is 28 x 360s, so about 2.75 hrs in total. Taken as usual with the D5300, IDAS-D1, and SW 80ED. 
      APP used for stacking and gradient reduction, everything else done in PS. 
      Would have liked twice, or 3 times, the data, but it's just not happening, so i've just decided to process what i've got. 
      Thanks for looking, and all CC welcome as always ?

    • By masjstovel
      Hi,

      I'm totally New to this hobby and i'm having trouble understanding something in stellarium.
      I have ordered (not recieved) a Sky-Watcher Explorer 150PDS, which has a 25mm eyepiece 50degrees FOV as a default.
      I also have a Nikon D810.

      I wanted to get an idea of what my field of view would be with the 25mm eyepiece (30x on 750mm focal length), 
      and also what it would be With my Nikon D810 mounted shooting prime Focus - no eyepieces.

      What surprised me was that it wasnt much difference between the frame and size of the object i get with 30x magnification (25mm eyepiece), and what i get with the Nikon D810 mounted. 
      I dont get this. What magnification do i get With my DSLR mounted with no eyepiece?



    • By chris_33
      i am looking for a coma corrector for astrophotography, i have a skywatcher 254/1200 pds, a nikon d5100, and a skywatcher off axis guider, what would you recommend?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.