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Please forgive me in advance for my newbie and potentially frustrating question here!
I have got an HEQ5 mount for my skymax 180 that I was given for Christmas. We have tried following many YouTube videos and reading what we can to get this set up and polar aligned and feel like we are missing something fundamental as when we go to then star align with the GOTO remote, it points at the floor instead of the moon or the star we are trying to align to. So far we have used 5 freezing nights of trying to do these things to no avail and it is rather frustrating and extremely disappointing!
So I am wondering please, what is the best way for me to actually set this thing up so we can finally enjoy using the scope? Do I need to have Home position sorted before I've aligned so once we have (hopefully) done that then we can navigate everything easier? Is that potentially what we are missing?
With lockdown i dont have a handy shop to visit or anyone else that knows how to do this and while I am sure patience is a virtue, I feel so overwhelmed by it all! Any advice or recommendations on what to watch or do to help us are gratefully received!
Again, I am sorry for being such a newb, I am hopeful once we crack this it will become second nature over time! Thank you!
I shot luminance for this trio of galaxies in December and after two clear nights in January I managed to get RGB as well.
Larger image can be found in my blog: https://www.evenfall.space/post/galactic-waltz
SkyWatcher Esprit 100mm f/5.5
EQ6 guided with ASI224MC
TS Optics LRGB filters. L: 196x120s, R: 60x120s, G: 72x120s, B: 60x120s. Total integration time approx. 13 hours.
Hi all, just getting straight to the point.
Just got a Rasp Pi 400 (equivalent to Pi4-4GB), and looking to get into guiding through this as it's obviously a popular (and successful) technique.
Plan is to have the RPi as mini computer at home, running it with RaspPiOS (supplied on µSD with the full kit), then use it with a SECOND micro SD card for astro - I figure having another SD to run Astroberry (as on SGL) may ignore any issues with the family using the pi for other stuff in the house, giving a stand-alone 'computer' as the OS and files would be available on different SD's.
From this point, I'd setup as follows:
Connect the RPi directly via USB to the mount (it's the newer SW-AZ-EQ6Pro with the USB-B port on the mount)
Guidescope (240mm f/4) with T7C (equivalent to ZWO Mini) again USB-B direct to RPi
Nikon DSLR (either on telescope or using camera lenses) connected to RPi via Nikon USB (using the 3 USB points on the RPi-400) to control capture and later using this for plate-solving (but that's not for just right now!)
I don't spy any flaws in the plan, it's just going to be a matter of testing and setting things up hoping to follow the guide for Astroberry as linked to SGL below...
Or is there an alternative OS? From brief reading, Astroberry includes KStars & PHD2 which is what I've got for use on the macbook (although not used in earnest as it doesn't appear to like the cold too much!)
What about guiding software - I know KStars comes with it's own, and can run PHD2 from within, with PHD2 being the industry standard (and simplest?) to use?
Control will then be sitting in the warm via OS-X, which seems to be again a common technique as I've had posts on my other questions about this!
Just thinking how this setup would compare to normal astrophotography setups. Imagine a Nikon coolpix p1000 on an equatorial mount. Has anyone done that yet?
As I saw in the YouTube videos about the camera, it has absolutely no chromatic aberration, so I assume it's got apochromatic lens. It's magnification is extremely good (125x with 16MP sensor). The aperture is quite small tho compared to many different refractors available.
So what do you think about the idea: astrophotography with a Nikon?
A second attempt at the Witch’s Broom Nebula (NGC6960), this time in narrowband. It took me 3.5 months to acquire the data, which was caused by a combination of poor UK weather and the partial obstruction by trees at my location.
Although imaged in narrowband, I tried to go for realistic looking colours so started with Ha mapped to red and OIII mapped to blue with a synthetic green generated from a Ha/OIII mix. After a few hue adjustments, I ended up with a colour image which mainly gave blue/reddish stars and nebula. I found that detail could be boosted by creating a super luminance image from the individually stacked narrow band stacks and then deconvolving the result which I then blended into the colour result via Pixinsight’s LRGB process. The image represents 16.5 hours integration time.