Jump to content

SkySurveyBanner.jpg.21855908fce40597655603b6c9af720d.jpg

Ideas for repackaging cooled DSLR


LarryC

Recommended Posts

Over the winter I TEC/water cooled my modded Canon 600D and it works well, giving me sensor delta Ts of over 40F (~20C).  Following Gina's trailblazing, I've since been working on removing all the unnecessary pieces and parts of  another camera, a 550D.  Now that I have an idea of how much I can strip off a camera,  I plan to strip the 600D and mount it and its TEC and TEC controller in a plastic or aluminum box of some sort.  The problem is that to fit everything, I need a box about 5" x 5" x 3"  (~13cm x 13cm x8cm), but I can't find anything near enough to those dimensions.  This would be a perfect use for a 3D printer, but I don't have access to one.  Does anyone have any ideas where I might find something that might work?

 

For anyone interested, here's the current "finished" cooled DSLR:

 

 

IMG_1165.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks.  If I can't find a nice lightweight plastic or aluminum enclosure online that fits but isn't excessively large, I'll probably make it from acrylic, since I have a bunch in my shop.  Though I may try thin ABS material, but I don't have as much experience welding ABS.  The acrylic weight does begin to add up and I would most likely have to paint the inside and probably outside to make it light proof, so I don't think this would be the ideal case material, but it may be my best option. 

 

Larry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can solvent weld ABS with acetone - I find this works very well.  For joints where there isn't perfectly flat surfaces and contact I use a solution of ABS in acetone as a glue.  Although I have a 3D printer (3 in fact) there are some items that are easier to produce in two or more parts and glue them together - either due to size or because of complicated shape.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

finally got my finger out and started my camera rebuild. only got the coma corrector fitted so far though. just uses compression by screwing into my t-adaptor. gonna add usb and power sockets and fit an arduino lcd to the back to monitor the peltier and whatnot.

IMG_20160528_203350_zpsh3bulctx.jpg

 

got these ordered... 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-Bar-Stainless-Steel-Kitchen-Cabinet-Cupboard-Door-Handles-Drawer-Pulls-Knobs-/181722761993?var=&hash=item2a4f854b09:m:ma_Caqfxu3fMWxWGTcvTpug

they'll look quite snazzy with the lcd sat between them on the back :headbang:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did the solder bridges, even checked with a magnifying glass... put the ribbon back in, and nothing... reconnected the lcd, nothing... there's 8v at the terminals i soldered on for external power so that's not the problem.

not sure if this is right, but i'm showing a short between X and Y in this image

2014-03-23-21.43.21_zpsyskjssns.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Almost certain from looking at my photos but I'll see if I can find the hardware and check.  I think your problem could be solder bridges - one or both as shown in anotated copy of your photo attached.

Capture2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!

2 part problem.

1st was that i must have knocked something when dismantling the case... a complete (everything off down to the chassis) rebuild, and plugging that annoying little switch under the battery flap

happy... is an understatement

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.