ASI1600mm cool

[iapa]

I have been following this thread with interest, as I am considering the 1600MM bundle with LRGB, ha OIII filters etc. (31mm)

Therefore, I am looking for a comment from those what been using this camera as to the current view of it after they have over come initial teething issues/learning curve.

 

Thanks

[brrttpaul]

ditto, and also the difference between the 31 mm filter and the smaller ones, ( yes I know they slightly bigger). I would be using an ED80 so which would be the better filters to have?  I am also thinking of getting a MAK to go along with the new setup

[DaveS]

FLO say there's no vignetting with 1.25" filters above f/5, and only a little down to f/4 which can be taken out with flats in any case. @Gina images down to, I think, f/2.8 with a 1600 and 1.25" filters.

[Gina]

Yes, in fact f2.5 and no problem using flats.

[brrttpaul]

thx for the answers guys much appreciated

[iapa]

8 hours ago, DaveS said:

FLO say there's no vignetting with 1.25" filters above f/5, and only a little down to f/4 which can be taken out with flats in any case. @Gina images down to, I think, f/2.8 with a 1600 and 1.25" filters.

Hi,

Just to clarify, 'above' f5 you mean f6.5/f10 etc.

Often I see faster/better/less/larger than when people are discussing comparative f-ratios. But rarely say f5 is faster/better/less/larger than fx - me being daft, I can never work it out

In this case I think you mean slower than f5, i.e f6.5,f10 etc.

[Magnus_e]

1 hour ago, iapa said:

Hi,

Just to clarify, 'above' f5 you mean f6.5/f10 etc.

Often I see faster/better/less/larger than when people are discussing comparative f-ratios. But rarely say f5 is faster/better/less/larger than fx - me being daft, I can never work it out

In this case I think you mean slower than f5, i.e f6.5,f10 etc.

Hi iapa. 

The f number is focal length / aperture, so smaller numbers are faster. 

A short wide lens can be down to f1.2 or so, while a refractor is more usual @ f5 and up. 

[iapa]

28 minutes ago, Magnus_e said:

Hi iapa. 

The f number is focal length / aperture, so smaller numbers are faster. 

A short wide lens can be down to f1.2 or so, while a refractor is more usual @ f5 and up. 

Hi,

Yeah, that bit I know.

Its to comparisons people make

It is not always constistent, Sometime they will say 'greater' then f5, meaning an f-ratio between f5 and f1, something they say 'greater' when they mean the number is bigger, i.e. f5 - f10, which is 'slower'.

Last thing I would want if to go but £1500 of camera based on 'greater' than f5, when the author was talking about an F6.6 to f10

Or, the implication was that vignetting would start to occur at f5, but minimal at f4 and I have an f6.3 OTA  

 

[DaveS]

Yes, sorry I got my greater / lesser in a twist. What I meant was slower than f/5.

However, my f4.4 astrograph barely shows any vignetting.

[brrttpaul]

theres a £79 price difference on the 1.25 or 31 mm bundles ATM, is it worth paying the extra £79 and having the 31 mm?. im thinking its done with then as I would have all the filters I need anyway and they may be better if I do get a MAK later on

[halli]

Hi All

I am establishing a lens set up with my ASI 1600mm to give a wider feild.  I have obtained a second hand Pentax Takumar prime lens which is 200mm F4.  This appears to be a fairly recommended vintage lens for this purpose. I also have an Atik EFW2 filter wheel.   My set up is shown below

 

The camera is connected to the filter wheel via the standard supplied M42 female to female connector which gives about 11mm spacing then I have used a M54 to M42x0.75 aaptor on the lens side of the wheel  and then a  M42x0.75 to M42x1mm for connection to the lens.

Unfortunately I am just a tad short of achieving focus -  only a few mms -  so I need to shorten the camera to lens overall connection a wee bit.  

The M42 female to female between the 1600mm and EFW2 appears to be a good target as it  is around 11mm but these are not easy to come buy as most appear male to female !!

Does anyone know of a shorter adaptor for the ZWO  -  the ones on the lens side of the wheel are quite narrow - or has any other ideas on how I can fix this please ?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

[halli]

sorry too many pictures - cant seem to get rid of the duplicates !

[Mr Spock]

9 minutes ago, halli said:

sorry too many pictures - cant seem to get rid of the duplicates !

All fixed

[The storm fisherman]

48 minutes ago, halli said:

Hi All

I am establishing a lens set up with my ASI 1600mm to give a wider feild.  I have obtained a second hand Pentax Takumar prime lens which is 200mm F4.  This appears to be a fairly recommended vintage lens for this purpose. I also have an Atik EFW2 filter wheel.   My set up is shown below

 

The camera is connected to the filter wheel via the standard supplied M42 female to female connector which gives about 11mm spacing then I have used a M54 to M42x0.75 aaptor on the lens side of the wheel  and then a  M42x0.75 to M42x1mm for connection to the lens.

Unfortunately I am just a tad short of achieving focus -  only a few mms -  so I need to shorten the camera to lens overall connection a wee bit.  

The M42 female to female between the 1600mm and EFW2 appears to be a good target as it  is around 11mm but these are not easy to come buy as most appear male to female !!

Does anyone know of a shorter adaptor for the ZWO  -  the ones on the lens side of the wheel are quite narrow - or has any other ideas on how I can fix this please ?

Thanks

 

 

 

 

I just  solved a very similar  problem in that my M 48 TO M 42 adaptor was 3.5 mm too long for the field flattner to camera/ filter wheel set up. But a quick search on the internet turned up the  telescope house who  seemed to have a better range of the M 42 t to M 48 ring adaptors and FLO have a set of Delrin spacers about 0 .5 mm to get the exact spacing that is required although reading through the various threads if you are within  +/- 0.5 mm then you will be OK. There is someone i cant remember the name that can custom make one for you, i am shore some else will pop up with more details.

[halli]

Hi. Thanks for your response and the info.  Yep adapters are often problematic but this issue has got me stumped

PS. ta for sorting my pickies out Mr Spock

[SyedT]

I received my 1600MM-C a month ago, and have been imaging intermittently. I have to say I am thoroughly impressed so far. I am using no calibration frames at all and subs of up to 10 minutes, with 2-inch filters. These are a couple of my results, both in Ha. I've recently purchased an OIII filter and am on the lookout for an SII filter, so will go full narrowband soon hopefully. Too much LP to bother with LRGB for the timebeing. It's important to note that these images have not been processed at all, apart from a histogram stretch in PI.

Pelican Nebula - 3-panel mosaic (work in progress), total of 4h22 mins of exposure

Elephant's Trunk Nebula - 12x600s

[Allinthehead]

27 minutes ago, SyedT said:

Pelican Nebula - 3-panel mosaic (work in progress), total of 4h22 mins of exposure

Nice work. What scope?

[SyedT]

34 minutes ago, Allinthehead said:

Nice work. What scope?

Cheers! Skywatcher 80ED DS Pro; hoping to upgrade to a triplet apo at some point in the future.

[alcol620]

On 4/17/2017 at 10:47, SyedT said:

I received my 1600MM-C a month ago, and have been imaging intermittently. I have to say I am thoroughly impressed so far. I am using no calibration frames at all and subs of up to 10 minutes, with 2-inch filters. These are a couple of my results, both in Ha. I've recently purchased an OIII filter and am on the lookout for an SII filter, so will go full narrowband soon hopefully. Too much LP to bother with LRGB for the timebeing. It's important to note that these images have not been processed at all, apart from a histogram stretch in PI.

Pelican Nebula - 3-panel mosaic (work in progress), total of 4h22 mins of exposure

Elephant's Trunk Nebula - 12x600s

Hi Syed

Nice images. I note that you are taking 10m subs. Lots of posts about this camera suggest that the signal to noise ratio is improved with much shorter subs 5m maximum and down to a couple of minutes.  see https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/549417-asi1600-experiments-with-high-gain-nb-imaging/ 

What gain and offset did you use for the 10 minute subs? 

Regards

[SyedT]

1 hour ago, alcol620 said:

Hi Syed

Nice images. I note that you are taking 10m subs. Lots of posts about this camera suggest that the signal to noise ratio is improved with much shorter subs 5m maximum and down to a couple of minutes.  see https://www.cloudynights.com/topic/549417-asi1600-experiments-with-high-gain-nb-imaging/ 

What gain and offset did you use for the 10 minute subs? 

Regards

Thanks! I actually bought the 1600MM for precisely that reason, considering LP and the weather here. The elephant's trunk was my first session so I was trying to push the camera and see how it would perform at subs beyond 300s. The pelican nebula is  combination of 180s and 300s subs. I'm going to experiment with 200 and 300 gain at some point and see how that works out.

Everything was done at unity gain (gain 139, offset 21).

Cheers

[alcol620]

3 hours ago, SyedT said:

Thanks! I actually bought the 1600MM for precisely that reason, considering LP and the weather here. The elephant's trunk was my first session so I was trying to push the camera and see how it would perform at subs beyond 300s. The pelican nebula is  combination of 180s and 300s subs. I'm going to experiment with 200 and 300 gain at some point and see how that works out.

Everything was done at unity gain (gain 139, offset 21).

Cheers

Thanks Syed I also have the 1600 and I am trying to get used to it. I don't particularly understand the various camera settings as yet. ie which are best for different exposure lengths.

 

[iapa]

<sigh>

prevaricating for past week

• OSC/mono, 
• lrgb/lrgb Ha
• 1.25"/31mm/36mm

Finally settled on Mono,2.15", LRGB on the basis that if I like it, I'll get the lrgb/Ha/Sii/Oiii when I dual rig - or some more research/dithering/do I?/that much?

Wish I had done this a fortnight ago - Sat/Sun were completely clear skies.

[brrttpaul]

I have been looking at the bundles, idealy I want the bigger filter wheel and LRGB plus HA but they only do that with the mini wheel, also I have been thinking of the miniwheel with LRGB plus the HA (think its £1795 but not sure now) then theres the miniwheel with just the LRGB at £1660 (again I think) but I can buy a HA filter for £67 I assume this is a diferent filter as it works out cheaper to buy the LRGB bundle and a single filter seperate rather tha the LRGB plus HA together? its hard work lol

[Andyb90]

On 17/04/2017 at 10:47, SyedT said:

I received my 1600MM-C a month ago, and have been imaging intermittently. I have to say I am thoroughly impressed so far. I am using no calibration frames at all and subs of up to 10 minutes, with 2-inch filters. These are a couple of my results, both in Ha. I've recently purchased an OIII filter and am on the lookout for an SII filter, so will go full narrowband soon hopefully. Too much LP to bother with LRGB for the timebeing. It's important to note that these images have not been processed at all, apart from a histogram stretch in PI.

Pelican Nebula - 3-panel mosaic (work in progress), total of 4h22 mins of exposure

Elephant's Trunk Nebula - 12x600s

These are looking great. Out of interest which make of filters are you using?

Andy.

[SyedT]

2 hours ago, Andyb90 said:

These are looking great. Out of interest which make of filters are you using?

Andy.

Cheers Andy! I've been using a Baader 7nm Ha for the above, and have recently purchased a Baader 8.5nm OIII (and of course the clouds came without delay). I'll be sticking to Baader as they're tried and tested, and I've managed to get very good prices for almost new filters via ABS; I was considering Astronomik, but there tend to be fewer of those second-hand, plus I read that there's only a 1mm thread which could cause issues with my SX USB filter wheel. 

On 18/04/2017 at 22:09, alcol620 said:

Thanks Syed I also have the 1600 and I am trying to get used to it. I don't particularly understand the various camera settings as yet. ie which are best for different exposure lengths.

 

No problem! I agree that the switch from DSLR to CMOS or even across different CMOS/CCD sensors can be tricky. I'm quite happy with unity gain so far, but it won't be long before I start going up to 200/300 gain and seeing whether I can get more detail with 300s subs on fainter targets. I did quite a bit of reading about gain and offset in the 1600MM-C from various forums and decided to stick with unity gain since I'm only just starting out with a CMOS.