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Looking at flocking my C9.25 and need to remove the corrector plate and secondary.

Simple question, how do you remove the corrector when there are 2 lugs in the way that the front cover use?

I can't see how to get the corrector ring / corrector past out without removing them, they look like they are part of the support ring and not added after.

Photo will hopefully explain this better.

20160424_163252.jpg

Edited by moriniboy
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Done it, only needs one taking out, will probably tap the hole and use a stainless hex head so it can be removed again easily in the future.

Link here Think you'll like the thread linked above

Just found that if I want to take the original orange Losmandy dovetail off I need a 9/64 allen key. I can't figure out why in this modern age we still get scopes which have both imperial and metric f

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Just found that if I want to take the original orange Losmandy dovetail off I need a 9/64 allen key. I can't figure out why in this modern age we still get scopes which have both imperial and metric fasteners on them, surely it should be one or the other (rant over)

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41 minutes ago, moriniboy said:

Just found that if I want to take the original orange Losmandy dovetail off I need a 9/64 allen key. I can't figure out why in this modern age we still get scopes which have both imperial and metric fasteners on them, surely it should be one or the other (rant over)

That is the USA, mostly imperial but where dependent on foreign suppliers or the Navy, then metric.  NASA never standardised, at some real cost.  It would be nice if it only affected Americans but we all have to suffer...

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In passing are you using self adhesive paper which is readily available or card which is said to have lower reflectivity and which makes no permanent alteration to the scope?

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Current thoughts are just to stick the DC-Fix onto the tube, I have however bought some flexible black card and may try this before I finally decide. If it looks like a good job I would then flock the card and use it as a friction fit solution.

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10 hours ago, moriniboy said:

Current thoughts are just to stick the DC-Fix onto the tube, I have however bought some flexible black card and may try this before I finally decide. If it looks like a good job I would then flock the card and use it as a friction fit solution.

Self adehsive flocking paper is readily available from Wilko (http://reviews.wilko.com/6551-en_gb/0309578/wilko-com-d-c-fix-original-deco-self-adhesive-film-velour-black-348-0005-reviews/reviews.htm) or FLO (https://www.firstlightoptics.com/misc/black-velour-telescope-flocking-material.html), but where have you managed to get flocked card?  Protostar used to be a source but people have reported problems with buying from this source.  Lyra Optic also had it once, but no longer.  Astro Systems Holland list flocking paper (http://www.astrosystems.nl/#!for-sale/crsf), but I am am not clear whether this is self adhesive or card backed.

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Photo of baffle, decided to leave last few mm clear internally.

The part of the baffle flares at the end closest to the secondary, I had to do an individual piece to cater for this (just visible on the photo).

As it was accessible I also decided to flock the outside of the baffle as well, it will probably not help at all but at least I know it has been done.

Flocking 3.JPG

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Just before re-installing the corrector, flash used like the original photo.

There is an identical C9.25 in our group which has not been flocked, I'm looking forward to a side by side test.

Photos are not altered in any way.

Flocking 4.JPG

Flocking 1.jpg

Edited by moriniboy
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Excuse my ignorance but does a SCT need flocking ?? Yer i can understand the drawer tube but doesnt the baffle stop any internal scatter ?

Big slap coming on left side of face i feel lol ;) great job however, love flocking, its amazing how reflective matt black is until you flock it !

Hope you get some noticeable results matey.

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when i did mine, i also flocked inside the secondary tube, bit late now though, did you hoover inside after, as you will get fibres all over your mirror and front plate

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Used one of those pet hair sticky rollers to remove any loose fibres before installing then I used a light misting of hairspary to secure any near loose ones.

Don't mind taking it to bits in the future, will consider the secondary thanks.

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  • 10 months later...

Sorry about the dumb question but I just bought the same scope and I'm completely incapable of exposing the collimation screws. How do you do that? It must be very simple, I guess,  but I am putting a lot of pressure and nothing happens -I worry about breaking something. There is a ring that can be unscrewed; I would imagine that this is to remove the secondary mirror so I don't want to tamper with it. Any help, please? It's the same, exact model than it's shown here.

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