Jump to content

Banner.jpg.b89429c566825f6ab32bcafbada449c9.jpg

DIY Power panel.. The return !


Vox45

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, Physopto said:

One very good reason not to use this type of connection. They give a poor connection, wires easily broken as there is no proper strain relief  and are easily dislodged from the very poor socket structure.

XLR or Speekon are robust and used in the music industry specifically because of their tough nature, as they are thrown about all over the place. They have to withstand a fair amount of abuse time and time again without failing.

 

Derek

I agree. That is why I moved to an XLR for my DSLR and a Speakon for the main input. Being a noob in all this I used this project to test the different forms of connectors. I have to say that I really like the Speakon although they are a bit bulky. My only beef with the XLR and Speakon is that they are not fused at the connector unlike the cig lighter plug. I really like the fact that I do not have to worry about where I connect my cig plug as it contains the proper fuse for the device that it plugs in.

I guess I could solve this by putting an inline fuse on the device side of the Speakon or XLR... unless there is another kind of connector that has the best of both worlds, but if so,  I have yet to find it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

What I have done is to use different pin configurations and sockets to match for each item. That way you cannot plug into the wrong socket. I also fuse each individually in the supply box at the side of the sockets with 20x 5 mm water resistant fuse holders. I use Speekon for the supply wiring to the box and all the rest are XLR. Between 3 pin to 7 pin. You can easily wire up the XLR to accept two wires onto several pins, so a seven pin plug and socket  is wired with two adjacent pins shorted together to take the current and allow reduced resistance for the connection (use 4 pins in total).

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Physopto said:

What I have done is to use different pin configurations and sockets to match for each item. That way you cannot plug into the wrong socket. I also fuse each individually in the supply box at the side of the sockets with 20x 5 mm water resistant fuse holders. I use Speekon for the supply wiring to the box and all the rest are XLR. Between 3 pin to 7 pin. You can easily wire up the XLR to accept two wires onto several pins, so a seven pin plug and socket  is wired with two adjacent pins shorted together to take the current and allow reduced resistance for the connection (use 4 pins in total).

Derek

I see ! I think this is the way I'll go for my PowerPanel v3.00.

It's really my OCD talking because my plan is to leave all the cables permanently plugged in on the panel side (hence the carrying bag shown above) so not a lot of risks of mixing anything, but better safe than sorry !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"I see ! I think this is the way I'll go for my PowerPanel v3.00.

It's really my OCD talking because my plan is to leave all the cables permanently plugged in on the panel side (hence the carrying bag shown above) so not a lot of risks of mixing anything, but better safe than sorry !"

 

Just for info. I use my gear at Star Parties so need to strip down for transport hence the extra precautions.!!

20160426_121811.jpg

 

20160426_121950.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Physopto said:

Having trouble here with this post.

Sorry Chris but they are not waterproof, water resistant maybe! But do look better quality than most. Still do not like those types of plugs though.

Derek

Well I guess that's true - 'waterproof' suggests they'll work under water! However, mine have been totally dripping in dew and that has not caused any problems - so perhaps about as 'water-resistant' as we need them to be ;-)

ChrisH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

41 minutes ago, ChrisLX200 said:

Depends on the quality of the 12v cigar plug, those I use are secure and waterproof. Never had an issue in 3 years use with them...

ChrisH

Yes, I am still looking for a replacement but can't seem to find male plugs that are lockable .. Maybe it is only the female side that needs to be lockable and there is no such thing as male lockable ?

I use these  http://tinyurl.com/jxo2nl4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One slight modification that you might want to consider.  That Volt/Ammeter that you have on your new box will be using up power.  However, it doesn't need to be powered up all the time, if you add a switch for the red wire (I think it's the red one anyway, I could check on mine if you want)  You can turn the display off, saving a little bit of power - but also stopping the glow and giving an opportunity to darken things just that little bit more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, cjdawson said:

One slight modification that you might want to consider.  That Volt/Ammeter that you have on your new box will be using up power.  However, it doesn't need to be powered up all the time, if you add a switch for the red wire (I think it's the red one anyway, I could check on mine if you want)  You can turn the display off, saving a little bit of power - but also stopping the glow and giving an opportunity to darken things just that little bit more.

I am taking notes for version 3.0 of the box ;)

The powepanel will sit in the carry bag I showed in a previous post. I will cut out a square so I can look at the voltmeter through the bag by lifting a little flap, so brightness is not an issue. But I did not think of power consumption... I agree a switch would be nice :)

The other things I noted is that next time I will avoid using solid wire, I'll use stranded instead. I used solide wire of 1.5mm² and I am a bit concerned that moving the wires put so much tension on the solder joint that they could just break. Fortunatly I should not have to move the wires once everyting is set. Standed would have been easier to work with when laying the wires in the box and soldering would have been easier on me.

Also, 1.5mm² was maybe a bit of an overkilll !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't be so sure that 1.5mm was over kill.  A quick google and that's about 20Amps.  Sounds like the cabling that I used for my batty box.  IIRC my box was has cabling rated for 50Amp, the thinking is that each of the cigar sockets is rated at 10Amp. Then there's the scope socket that could pull 10amp in total (scope + dew heaters  + other gubbins)  then theres the 4 usb charging ports.  Overkill would have been the cabling that I added on the battery for charging.  It's also rated high enough that I could use it to jump start a car (not that jumping a car with a leisure battery is a good idea)

It's better to have over egged the cake than underdone it and regretted it later (think melting and fire and smoke)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Physopto said:

Having trouble here with this post.

Sorry Chris but they are not waterproof, water resistant maybe! But do look better quality than most. Still do not like those types of plugs though.

Derek

I've been in the company of many an imager that rely on these types of connection, to see them frustrated at losing power and tracking several times in one night.

I'd agree Derek that they are the worst connectors ever invented. I only run dew heaters from my power tank but the main connections are XLR sockets nowadays. 

I've come across cigarette sockets/plugs that are IP rated but If you look on caravanning/marine forums most wouldn't give them a thought.

Speekon STX range is IP54 rated. Yes we're not going to submerge anything hopefully but dew corrodes. 

If you do use these as others say get the best quality you can of the lock in type. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just received the cables I've ordered from the US. Since they did not ship to France, I had to have them sent to my father in Canada and then shipped to Paris...

The idea was for me to be able to connect to anything I would come across. So I got those 3 cables from NOCO.

1x 10 feet extension cable. I cut the female connector end and replaced it with a speakon connector to plug into my powerpanel, the other (male) end will connect to the female end of the 2 others. This way I can go from one type of connection to the other very easily

IMG_2264_cr.JPG

1x female to croc connector so I can use any battery I come across in the field

IMG_2259_cr.JPG

1x female to eyelet. This one I will use to connect to my DIY bench PSU.

IMG_2261_cr.JPG

I really like them, you can feel the quality of the connectors...

- Built-in fuse protection for increased safety

- Rugged, watertight connector for extreme environments.

- 16AWG

As I am almost done with the powerpanel I will now start a thread for my DIY bench PSU :)

Good times!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

53 minutes ago, Vox45 said:

I just received the cables I've ordered from the US. Since they did not ship to France, I had to have them sent to my father in Canada and then shipped to Paris...

The idea was for me to be able to connect to anything I would come across. So I got those 3 cables from NOCO.

1x 10 feet extension cable. I cut the female connector end and replaced it with a speakon connector to plug into my powerpanel, the other (male) end will connect to the female end of the 2 others. This way I can go from one type of connection to the other very easily

IMG_2264_cr.JPG

1x female to croc connector so I can use any battery I come across in the field

IMG_2259_cr.JPG

1x female to eyelet. This one I will use to connect to my DIY bench PSU.

IMG_2261_cr.JPG

I really like them, you can feel the quality of the connectors...

- Built-in fuse protection for increased safety

- Rugged, watertight connector for extreme environments.

- 16AWG

As I am almost done with the powerpanel I will now start a thread for my DIY bench PSU :)

Good times!

Actually the type of connector used, the flat male and female, is a fairly waterproof type and it is the almost identical to the connectors used by CTEK for their battery chargers. Possibly even made buy the same people as they are so similar, not sure about that! They seem to be rated at about 10 or more amps (12 volts). Speekon are rated at about 30 to 40 amps (constant) dependant upon type. All  are at least IP54 I believe and some IP65/7. There are Chinese copies that quote IP67 ????

I forgot Bulgin also make waterproof connectors but they are pricey and bulky.

 

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enjoyed this thread alot @Vox45.

I am at the plannng stages myself and have the same usb hub as you (except its 7 slot) I was hoping to see you found a way around having the power connection at the front (stupid Idea). I've been pondering pulling it apart and re-routing the power supply but tbh, I'm a bit concerned that my inadequacies might render the hub useless :). No doubt I will probably go for the same solution as you have used.

Thanks for the thread, it's helped a lot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Scott said:

Enjoyed this thread alot @Vox45.

I am at the plannng stages myself and have the same usb hub as you (except its 7 slot) I was hoping to see you found a way around having the power connection at the front (stupid Idea). I've been pondering pulling it apart and re-routing the power supply but tbh, I'm a bit concerned that my inadequacies might render the hub useless :). No doubt I will probably go for the same solution as you have used.

Thanks for the thread, it's helped a lot

I am glad you are enjoying it ! As a matter of fact, I tend to start thread to document my process and if it helps at least one person along the way than I am happy. I did learn A LOT from other threads so I try to give back :)

Regarding the HUB I wish I had gone with a 7 ports from the start. All the ports will be used (focuser, guide cam, DSLR, EQDirect) so I am out of USB ports now :(

Note that this hub has jumpers inside that let you isolate the input from either the computer or the 12V source. It is not documented but Gina in another thread did post pictures on how to isolate the power source, which I did.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Super stupid question, even worst because I am done now but it never occured to me that this could be an issue before...

I just realised by looking back at my original order that the panel mounted fuse holders are rated like this: "AC 250 V 10 A"

What does this mean in my setup as I use 12V DC ... I saw so many powerpanel with these kind of fuse holder that I never had second thought buying those.

Another thing, does the wiring as an impact or can I use either prong Interchangeably ? in other words, is there a in/out ? it did not see any markings indicating this on the fuse holder

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes there is an in and out on the fuse holder in your terms.  The bottom of the holder should be positive. By that I mean that the uppermost contact ( one nearest to the fuse cap) is negative.

Fixapart Fuse holder 5x20 screw cap

Yours may well be different looking  tab on the side is the negative.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Physopto said:

Yes there is an in and out on the fuse holder in your terms.  The bottom of the holder should be positive. By that I mean that the uppermost contact ( one nearest to the fuse cap) is negative.

Yours may well be different looking  tab on the side is the negative.

Call me dimwitt but I do not understand what negative/positive means in this case.

For exemple: to fuse my XLR connector  I took the red wire (from 'positive') to one of the prong of the fuse holder then from the other prong (still positive in my mind since it is 'inline') it goes to the positive prong of my XLR connector ... I do not see where 'negative' fits into this...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No definitely not a daft question, me not explaining well sorry.

Positive input goes to the base of the fuse holder. Output still positive from the connection next to the cap to the device. Sorry for the terminology. The idea is that if a fuse is or has to be checked or replaced you do not touch the positive by accident when the fuse is held in the cap. The uppermost contact is the first to touch the fuse when putting in a fuse. So it is the dead connection, ( negative). When you push the fuse completely in it makes the circuit between the positive and the uppermost connection though the fuse element, (negative or outlet side of the holder). Thus sending power out to the device. Hope that makes sense.

Derek

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ho thank you for the explanation, that is really good to know and it makes a lot of sens !

There is one (the 1st I did) that is not proper then .... when came the time to do the other 2, I guestimate that they should be done the way you describe... pure luck!

About the AC versus DC I found this explanation

" With AC power, the current and voltage oscillate back and forth.  This oscillation helps the fuse to clear quickly.  DC power on the other hand doesn't oscillate so the fuse must find other means to clear itself when opening. Because of these differences, some fuses are designed specifically to be used in DC applications (such as automotive fuses) . Some AC rated fuses may be used in DC applications, however there may be a voltage de-rating in these cases."

So I guess that the important part is "some fuses are designed specifically to be used in DC applications (such as automotive fuses)" ... I am a bit reassured then.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Glad it helped a bit.

Just to muddy the waters, when the convention of positive and negative was introduced way back when, they decided that electricity (DC) went from positive to negative.  Unfortunately they were wrong it goes from negative to positive (DC). It is the electrons in the valence cloud that moves through the wires as they are very loosley held by the atoms.  :evil4: It was far too late when they realised the mistake so we are left with it.

Ain't life a bitch!  :p

Derek

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.