DIY Power panel.. The return !

[Vox45]

After using my PowerPanel v1.0 for a little while I decided that it was time to improve on my initial design. v1.0 was my first try at DIY so it had been a steep learning curve and I had made some rookie mistakes.

-> I should have gone with a better stepdown voltage converter. I went for cheap chinese pcb and they gave me a lot of issues with soldering and voltage regulation, so much that I did not trust them to plug my camera into

-> cutout holes were not to my satisfaction due to lack of experience and not using proper tools

-> wrong type of project box (too small and cover made out of aluminium)

-> using inline fuse instead of panel mounted fuse holders. Not sure that this is a real problem but I've seen the damage done to plastic fuse (automotive kind) and it made me rethink my choice of fuse. Whatever the case may be, panel mounted fuse holder are much easier to access so I went for that design this time.

This being version 2 of my powerpanel I was able to recycle bits from v1.0

1x switch 12 V/DC 12 V/DC 25 A
2x WAGO 8 poles (distribution)
1x Neutrik Speakon male
1x Neutrik Speakon female
2x Cigar lighter sockets
1x StarTech ST4200USBM Hub USB
1x XLR connector male female
1x StarTech ST4200USBM Hub USB

I added these bits for v2.0

1x 280pcs box shrink tubes (for safety)
1x Cigar lighter sockets (I had room left and who knows..)
1x Pixnor 5x20mm fast acting fuse (to replace the inline from v1.0)
1x 5 x 20 mm fuse holder (to replace the inline from v1.0)
1x DROK DC-DC 5V/12V SR Buck Step-down (to power my DSLR)
1x 4.5-30V/10A DC Amp Volt Gauge (no amp metering in v1.0)
1x Project box teko cp4 215 x 130 x 83 mm (bigger box, all plastic)

I decided to change the round voltmeter from v1.0 to a square DC Amp Volt Gauge as I wanted to be able to monitor how many amps my setup was pulling at peak utilization. The round one only showed volts (and was not pretty) 

In this version, I did stick to cig lighter plugs even though they get bad reviews from experienced DIYers. I like the convenience of having the plug fused to the proper rating so the device can be plugged in any socket without having to worry about the rating of the fuse for that socket. A solution would be to put an inline fuse on the cord itself but I am not there yet. I did keep 1 XLR connector to power the camera as it has a different voltage so it made sense for me to use a different connector. 

In v1.0 I had to cut the square hole for my USB Hub using a saw... and a LOT of patience. The result was not impressive. So, for my birthday, I asked for a Proxxon 28481 IB/E Professional drill/grinder. It is German and the reviews are very positive compared to its competitor. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of it. It has metal parts (not plastic) and is very quiet with no vibrations. I bought the Dremel set of cutting disk (including the PVC one) and the EZ speedclic adapter which is a amazing in its simplicity. The EZ speedclic works well with the Proxxon adapter.

Cutting holes

I designed the front panel using this software (free)

I was able to align everything in the software and print it out to actual size with very precise markings for the middle of each hole. In v1.0, I had to mark every holes using masking tape and measuring with a ruler but that method is not as precise as using a software to do the job.

Once the panel was printed on paper I just used spray-on paper glue.

 

I drilled the holes using this step bit, marking the correct hole size with a piece of tape as it is easier than counting each step while drilling ...

 

Once everything was cut to my licking, I removed the paper and glue. I have to admit that it was not as easy as I expected and there is still some glue left even afer soaking the glue in WD40. I will remove it using white spirit and see if that helps.

 

I fitted all the pieces together and was happy to see that everything aligned perfectly. There are little things I am not happy about (little defects in cutting) but overall, that is much better than v1.0

Next step will be the wiring...

I'll post more pics when I get there

 

[Knighty2112]

Looking good so far. Very professional looking already! Well done!  

Now, just keep that soldering iron steady!  

[Alien 13]

I have to admit that I have lots of version twos of projects, the new build is looking very good if it was me I would add a led with series resistor across each fuse so you know instantly when one has blown without fumbling around in the dark trying to measure it.

Alan 

[Vox45]

5 minutes ago, Knighty2112 said:

Looking good so far. Very professional looking already! Well done!  

Now, just keep that soldering iron steady!  

Thanks

I am getting better at it although there are still little defects. But, to me, the most important part of DIY is what I gained in confidence and what I learned along the way. In my case I learned a lot about soldering, type of plastics, connectors, fuses, voltage and amps and so on... I could have bought this for probably the same amount of what I spend on v1.0 and v2.0 (counting the tools) but where is the fun in that ?!

Plus, now that I have all the tools and gained some know how, I started to build a bench power supply... Before v1.0, I wouldn't have dared thinking about doing that ! I even started looking at Raspberry Pi stuff for v3.0

So now I have two hobbies, Astronomy and building stuff for astronomy.

[Vox45]

23 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

I have to admit that I have lots of version twos of projects, the new build is looking very good if it was me I would add a led with series resistor across each fuse so you know instantly when one has blown without fumbling around in the dark trying to measure it.

Alan 

I'll see if I can fit these in my carefully planned front panel

They have a saying in French " Le mieux est l'ennemie du bien " which would translate by "perfect is the enemy of the good" or something like that. Maybe I'll keep your idea in mind for v3.0

[Physopto]

." I could have bought this for probably the same amount of what I spend on v1.0 and v2.0 "

But it would not be exactly what you wanted and not "YOURS".

Looking good.

Derek

[Gina]

I don't think I shall be spending anything like that on my latest power and USB box!    I rather like the look of those Anderson connectors.  May be an improvement over XLR connectors.

[Alien 13]

1 hour ago, Vox45 said:

I'll see if I can fit these in my carefully planned front panel

They have a saying in French " Le mieux est l'ennemie du bien " which would translate by "perfect is the enemy of the good" or something like that. Maybe I'll keep your idea in mind for v3.0

One of my projects got to version 8 and I was still never completely satisfied,  you cant beat building your own kit and all the spare bits always come in handy.

You can buy tiny leds even the 3 mm ones would only require a small hole and can just be glued in place.

Alan

[ChrisLX200]

I don't know if this post is relevant or not - are you using a battery for power or a mains unit? Anyway, today I took delivery of the little PCB shown below, it's a breakout board which allows for quick conversion of a PC ATX power supply to a stand-alone bench supply. Costs about £10 from Amazon. It works with a 24-pin connector or (as below) the 20-pin connector found on older version. Also includes connectors for additional outputs which would normally go to graphics card or PCI ports on the MB, that lets you take advantage of the full output capacity of the PSU. Anyway, it works and saves a lot of mucking about done the usual way...

ChrisH

[Horwig]

That is a mighty fine looking job on the holes in the panel, not a single scratch, and I take it that there was no sign of hammer rash either, well done sir.

Edit: just had a look at that panel layout software, very interesting, now I'll have to dream up a project to give it a go

H

[Vox45]

15 hours ago, ChrisLX200 said:

I don't know if this post is relevant or not - are you using a battery for power or a mains unit? Anyway, today I took delivery of the little PCB shown below, it's a breakout board which allows for quick conversion of a PC ATX power supply to a stand-alone bench supply. Costs about £10 from Amazon. It works with a 24-pin connector or (as below) the 20-pin connector found on older version. Also includes connectors for additional outputs which would normally go to graphics card or PCI ports on the MB, that lets you take advantage of the full output capacity of the PSU. Anyway, it works and saves a lot of mucking about done the usual way...

 

ChrisH

I will be building a benchtop power supply using a Mean Well switching power supply and I will use a 12V Deep Cycle Marine Batterie in the field.

In order to be able to switch from one setup to the other I bought 3 of those cables (1x croc / 1x extension / 1x Eyelet terminal) The cables are fused and (according to the brochure) "Rugged, watertight connector for extreme environments"

I will fit one end of the 10' extension cable with a speakon connector that will plug into the power panel, the other hand will be either croc for when I am in the field with a battery or a male connector that will go into the benchtop when I am near an electrical outlet.

That was one of the main reason for me to go with a powerpanel instead of a powerbox as I can easilly plug it into whatever is convenient depending on the situation. Hopefully I did not overlook anything and this setup will be safe

[Vox45]

I made a little boo-boo using that glue ! I was told that the paper would come off as easy as using post-it notes ... yeah right! I had a hard time removing it all and had to go with paint thinner in the end The glue is gone but now I have little bright spots all over.

Not a big thing as I plan to insert the box in a lunch bag to offer a bit of protection against the elements ... I know it sounds weird but you'll see once it is done  

The initial plan was to use a pelican case but the price is too high and the case would be too heavy. The lunch bag is light, resistant to water, it will let air go through so nothing will get too hot and it has a little handle so I can put the cords in when I am done and zip it all up for transport... 

[Physopto]

"I will be building a benchtop power supply using a Mean Well switching power supply and I will use a 12V Deep Cycle Marine Batterie in the field. "

 

Why not just use the Deep Cycle Marine Battery at home as well. just put it on permanent (supply) charge whilst in use, using an intelligent charger (CTEK or some such)?

You would get a much better supply. I use my mount like that all the time...well not much at home top be honest, LP and weather

Derek

[Vox45]

22 minutes ago, Physopto said:

"I will be building a benchtop power supply using a Mean Well switching power supply and I will use a 12V Deep Cycle Marine Batterie in the field. "

 

Why not just use the Deep Cycle Marine Battery at home as well. just put it on permanent (supply) charge whilst in use, using an intelligent charger (CTEK or some such)?

You would get a much better supply. I use my mount like that all the time...well not much at home top be honest, LP and weather

Derek

The reason for the benchtop is not only when I am at home but near any electrical outlet. I go to a club that has piers with electrical outlets so I'd rather use this than a lug a battery.. the benchtop will be small and very light.

The other reason for the benchtop is when I travel to Canada, the PSU I chose can be switched to accomodate 88-132VAC or 176-264VAC with a frequency range of 47 ~ 63Hz so that should cover both Europe and NA.

I can see what you mean by better supply from a battery on permanent (supply) charge ... cleaner output, but how bad can a switched PSU be ?

[ChrisLX200]

25 minutes ago, Vox45 said:

 ... cleaner output, but how bad can a switched PSU be ?

Anywhere between good and un-usable... mainly depending on how well it was built ;-)

Switched power supplies can be a source of digital noise - especially bad for CCD cameras. Put the output on the oscilloscope to find out.

ChrisH

[Vox45]

15 minutes ago, ChrisLX200 said:

Anywhere between good and un-usable... mainly depending on how well it was built ;-)

Switched power supplies can be a source of digital noise - especially bad for CCD cameras. Put the output on the oscilloscope to find out.

ChrisH

As soon as I hit the submit button, I knew I was asking for trouble with this rhetorical question

I did some ressearch on this 'noise' component and I've read different point of view on this affecting or not CCD cameras. I started with this comparison between linear and switched where they mention that "some applications like audio equipment or very delicate test equipment may be sensitive to noise on the output of a switch-mode supply".

In my case I will be using a DSLR (less sensitive than CCD cameras ?) and there will be a Buck Step-down between the PSU and the camera... Not sure if this will help reducing the issue if this is really one with a DSLR.

[Vox45]

There was a small discussion here on AC to DC – Linear Versus Switch-Mode Power Supplies

[Alien 13]

It will help if you have a "star earthing" system within your box i.e. run a separate earth wire to each output terminal rather than just linking them.

Alan

[Vox45]

5 minutes ago, Alien 13 said:

It will help if you have a "star earthing" system within your box i.e. run a separate earth wire to each output terminal rather than just linking them.

Alan

Interesting ! I'll look into this

[Vox45]

I finally got around to the wiring and manage to melt the plastic on the XLR connector while soldering ... so I ordered a new connector as one of the pin became loose.

Everything else went fine, took me a lot of time to figure out evrything but in the end I was quite happy with myself even though the end result is far less pretty than what I had in mind

[Vox45]

Something went horribly wrong...

When I first tested the connection from the powerpanel to the mount, nothing happened. The mount on/off light did not turn on. So I unplugged everything and plugged the mount into my usual 12V5A power supply ... same thing. I thought I blew up something.

About 20 minutes later, I tried again and ... it worked. Mount turned on and I was able to slew on both axis.

I wonder how this could be. My powerpanel cannot output more than 13v (battery) so it cannot be a voltage spike. There is a 5A fuse in the cig lighter plug so it cannot be an overcurrent or the fuse would have blown.. Reverse polarity ? I doubt that as the wiring is pretty straight forward and the polarity is marked on the female plug, I also checked using a voltmeter and I got 12.6v output on the female plug...

So now I am puzzled on what could have cause this and how the mount was able to recover from it ? I will not test again with my powerpanel until I have sorted this out!

[Vox45]

Good news (for me at least) ... it was a bad case of Murphy's law !

After pondering for quite a while on what the problem could be, I went back to basic troubleshooting: "start from the outlet".

So I did. I tested every connection in my powerpanel and the cig ligther. Everything was fine, so I moved on to the cord itself by doing a continuity test ...

Lo and behold, the continuity test failled ! I opened up the cig light plug and this is what I found:

Yes that's right! One of the wire was torned up and the other was hanging by a few threads!

So, this was a text book case of Murphy's law: the wire failed at the exact moment I tried to test it with the powerpanel, leading me to believe that it was the panel that cause the faillure of the mount's electronics.

I cleaned everything and soldered the 2 wires back to the metal pieces and everything is now running fine.

[Gina]

It's often the simplest things that cause the most trouble!

[Vox45]

17 minutes ago, Gina said:

It's often the simplest things that cause the most trouble!

You can imagine the sunken feeling when I turned the power on and the mount went dead ... I banged my head on the wall vowing never to start a DIY project again as I thought I had fried the electronics of the mount ! Funny enough, the fact that I found the fault and was able to repair it by myself gives me the opposite feeling... I want to do more DIY now

Call me bipolar!

I am looking for lockable marine cig male plugs as I already have the lockable female version. After that experience with the vendor supplied plug I see how bad it is. In a future project, I will change the plugs to XLR or Speakon but for now, I think the lockable version will do fine.

[Physopto]

1 hour ago, Vox45 said:

Good news (for me at least) ... it was a bad case of Murphy's law !

After pondering for quite a while on what the problem could be, I went back to basic troubleshooting: "start from the outlet".

So I did. I tested every connection in my powerpanel and the cig ligther. Everything was fine, so I moved on to the cord itself by doing a continuity test ...

Lo and behold, the continuity test failled ! I opened up the cig light plug and this is what I found:

Yes that's right! One of the wire was torned up and the other was hanging by a few threads!

So, this was a text book case of Murphy's law: the wire failed at the exact moment I tried to test it with the powerpanel, leading me to believe that it was the panel that cause the faillure of the mount's electronics.

I cleaned everything and soldered the 2 wires back to the metal pieces and everything is now running fine.

One very good reason not to use this type of connection. They give a poor connection, wires easily broken as there is no proper strain relief  and are easily dislodged from the very poor socket structure.

XLR or Speekon are robust and used in the music industry specifically because of their tough nature, as they are thrown about all over the place. They have to withstand a fair amount of abuse time and time again without failing.

 

Derek