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Dixie

EQ8 Improvements

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It would be good somewhere to list the fettling done by Skywatcher on its EQ8.  I've just got one and I'm please to say those tough to tighten bolts on the saddle (to retain the OTA) have been recessed with an allen socket. Previously you risk slicing your fingers apart trying to get a grip in the confined space. Pix attached.   Just buy a T handle and even getting the C14 on board is easier.

 

bolt.jpg

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The bottom two look pretty mashed up - how long will they last until you need to replace the bolts?

--

Mark

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I would buy a suitable Box spanner to go over the out of the handles this will give a grip to tighten the knob it wouldn't need to use a bar just hand tighten...

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At some point they will need replacing - but at least Skywatcher has listened.  

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For the price of the Eq8 I would have thought fettling wouldn't be needed and yes the bottom two do look pretty mashed.

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You'd have thought in this day and age they'd have torx screws.

Dave

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This is my solution, it works very well, I don't even tighten the two outside ones, just pinch them up.

Ray

image.jpeg

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Is there a reason why Skywatcher used these bolts instead of the ones on the NEQ6?

--

Mark

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Socket head bolts are usuallly damaged by poor quality, ill fitting allen keys.  It's worth buying a decent set (or individual key) - a T handle type would be best.

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One of the problems with these bolts is that they corrode in wet conditions. They need to be replaced with stainless steel and the heads need to be isolated from the slide with washers to prevent wear and the corrosive effects caused by not being lubricated. Alloy is  a devil to prevent it corroding as the pressure of the bolts and clamping cause the anodization to be damaged. The original bolts are cheap mild steel. This reacts with the alloy in damp or wet conditions. In fact you will find most of the screws on the mount turn rusty after a short while.  Treating with WD40 can slow this down but will not stop it. The EQ8 is  a really good mount let down by stupid cost cutting in certain areas. In an observatory environment it should do fine with care.

Derek

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3 hours ago, triton1 said:

For the price of the Eq8 I would have thought fettling wouldn't be needed and yes the bottom two do look pretty mashed.

No mount is perfect.  And at its price point the EQ8 has no competition.  I strongly suspect the mount will be improved over time in the same way as the EQ6 which was much lambasted in its early years.

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Stainless has been known to seize in alloy through electrochemical reaction and while it's corrosion resistant, it's very hard and brittle.  If you have a stainless bolt break then it's a nightmare to remove.  I'd go with a good quality high tensile steel bolt - they don't seize in alloy unless it's down to corrosion and a light smear of copper grease on the threads will prevent that.  Hex head or Torx is ok as long as the tools used are good quality.  If you want to prevent rust then WD40 isn't really the best thing,  something like ACF50 is designed for the job but it's messy. 

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Copper reacts with aluminium alloys. You cannot use copperslip or any product containing copper as a lubricant. Plain high melt point grease is OK. 

Derek

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Reminds me of the discussions on Bicycle Forums about what grease to use on seat posts - that's the post that the saddle attaches to.

They're usually aluminium alloy, or steel on cheap bikes, and fix into steel, alloy, or carbon fibre frames, depending on your budget.

They rarely get moved once adjusted and are an absolute pig to remove once corrosion has occurred, which can be the result of damp or catalytic action.

Michael

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Never used the hand controller, just EQMOD. But there was a plastic bolt on controller clip support supplied to hold the controller when not in use.

Derek

 

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10 hours ago, teleskopjo said:

What are your solutions to hold the hand controller in place other than left dangling? :)

A mobile phone/satnav  holder for a bicycle - it has a grip that can fit around the bolts on my pier and an extension lead to allow me more freedom of movement

Edited by ngwillym

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On 2/25/2016 at 23:20, Physopto said:

Copper reacts with aluminium alloys. You cannot use copperslip or any product containing copper as a lubricant. Plain high melt point grease is OK. 

Derek

Copper slip is used extensively on bolts used to attach aluminium alloy motorcycle parts to prevent seizing through corrosion.  It's use is recommended and to be honest, I've never seen it do any damage.  Parts that are moved regularly nothing shouldn't need anything at all though. :)

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1 hour ago, Islander said:

Copper slip is used extensively on bolts used to attach aluminium alloy motorcycle parts to prevent seizing through corrosion.  It's use is recommended and to be honest, I've never seen it do any damage.  Parts that are moved regularly nothing shouldn't need anything at all though. :)

Yes I can understand this. I used it extensively whilst at sea on parts that could achieve high temperatures and on steel to steel fixings as a none stick lubricant. But I also used it once on my Toyota Amazon alloy wheels. After six months I had great difficulty in removing the wheels. In the end I had to resort to slackening the bolts and moving the car a few feet back and forth in the path to break the bond that had formed between the steel hub and the alloy wheel. Galvanic corrosion had formed between the parts. The back face of the wheels had very extensive damage and had corroded and pitted. I never used it again and never had the problem again.

Derek

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On 3/8/2016 at 15:49, teleskopjo said:

What are your solutions to hold the hand controller in place other than left dangling? :)

I bought a magnet at a hardware store and attached this plastic cup to it. It can be moved around the mount easily and also sticks to my rolling toolbox/desk when I'm imaging, as long as it has ferrous metal to stick to. My wife may be angry when she finds out what I did! 

20160130_102757.jpg

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