Jump to content

stargazine_ep43_banner.thumb.jpg.ea2a27954a074b4478d83359648ce4e2.jpg

Tonight's feeble effort....


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 26
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

now would you believe it, not moving it a quarter but a slither to the left actually worked! I just kept repeating that till I finally started to see the historgram move across! now to try the curves!

Posted Images

Get on YOU TUBE and search for processing videos - if you look for Doug German Astrophotography, there are a load of tutorials that are great to get started with - they are for photoshop, but the principles are the same in GIMP if you are using that programme?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I used a couple of the vids that were suggested on this forum. The only problem is (and I think this is what the guy above was referring to) is that my black area starts in the bottom left and I've got no way of moving it across when doing the curving. I'm guessing I might head more dark photos when stacking so the contrast is more obvious?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm still learning a lot myself, so might not be the best person to help here, but what subs did you stack and what programme did you use? This might help people with more experience than I diagnose the issue you might be having.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Subs are the basic pictures you are taking and then stack....so LIGHTS are your actual picture files,. DARKS are the Dark Frame Subs, BIAS (Bias Subs) and FLATS (Flat subs). Stick them all together in a programme like DSS (Deep Sky Stacker) and it will put them all together in a TIFF or FITS file that you can fiddle with in Photoshop. If you only had a few short LIGHT subs in your stack it might be harder to process, so it would help to know how many you had. If you click on the link in my sig, I have a little DSS tutorial on my blog that might help?

Have you tried adjusted the Levels in PS before curves? What does that graph look like?

If you haven't already grabbed a copy, I can recommend Making Every Photon Count - which is available through the site sponsor FLO, which gives a great basic grounding in all things AP from chosing equipment, taking photos and processing them.

I have found it frustrating, but rewarding if you keep at it - each incremental improvement in your own skill/understanding is really rewarding.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Start with levels, you should have a histogram type shape with a gap to the left, try moving the left hand pointer near the back of the pointy black bit sticking up :)
Best to start with levels as it doesn't alter the actual data as opposed to curves.

You can go mad and click on the left hand eye dropper icon at the bottom of the curves window and click somewhere on your background and turn it black, not recommended but gives you an idea, you really need to just click around on things and see the effect, you can always go back.

Dave

Had a quick hack at a screen shot, needs more data and calibration frames56c1c845c837f_orionnebss.PNG.ba03828bdc9

Edited by Davey-T
Link to post
Share on other sites

ok used 12 light frames and 12 darks/ exposure was for 5 seconds each on 800 ISO using a Cannon 350D I'm going to attempt some more tonight (gotta take advantage of the clear skies!)

How many should I look at taking then?

cheers for the assistance.

 

kazz

 

(sorry I've been a nuisance but am certainly struggling with all the new terminology and abbreviations)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Depending on what lens you are using...I'm presuming you are using just a DSLR and not a telescope...you could push the exposure to longer. I believe the rule is something like 500/fl to get the exposure. I've never had much luck with just DSLR photography though, so I'm not the expert.

Take as many lights as you can, the more data the better.

Are you shooting in RAW format?

Link to post
Share on other sites

yes all on RAW and on just the DLSR (not had a great deal of luck on the telescope so thought I would go back to basics(!) on just the camera for the moment. Ive just jumped outside this second and done another load so we will see if that produces anything slightly better.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't worry about asking any question, you're not being a nuisance, far from it, plenty of folk have been and are in your position so you're helping others .

5 secs isn't very long so take as many exposures as you can experiment with ISO to see how far you can push it although the 350d is a bit noisier than later models I believe.

Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites

OK here's an example pic, if you open the curves window and hold down the CTRL key and click on the sky background it will put a black marker on the curve line, you can move this up and down to alter the background level, in this I've pulled it down to darken it.

Dave

 

Curves 2.PNG

Curves.PNG

Link to post
Share on other sites

@Kazzmaniandevil: In your last screenshot, drag the middle slider (just above the 1.00 box) about a quarter of the way to the left. Then click OK. Then get the levels dialogue box again and repeat this about 5 times. This will bring the histogram "hump" nearer to the middle. You should then see some more of the nebula.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.