Show us your Solar Observing Equipment

[paulastro]

Andrew, would I be correct in thinking that the Baader Newtonian flange would be more easily available and perhaps cheaper?

Edited February 19, 2016 by paulastro

[AWR]

What I meant to say was that the Baader Newtonian Focuser fits to the Lunt once you remove the base plate (I THINK!).  The Baader focuser should be cheaper than the Moonlite. 

If you want to use the Moonlite focuser, you need the Moonlite Lunt flange.

HTH Andrew

[paulastro]

That looks cool, you should go into production

Edited February 19, 2016 by paulastro

[paulastro]

Thanks for the clarification re the Baader focuser and the Moonlite flange issue Andrew - I was a bit slow on the uptake there for a moment

[spaceboy]

On ‎09‎/‎01‎/‎2016 at 19:07, spaceboy said:

 Here's mine. All I need now is the sun

Slight up date to my previous post.

This is for solar when I'm too lazy to nudge the scope

[janesdsg]

On 08/02/2016 at 10:10, paulastro said:

I haven't seen your ad for the etalon.  I just wandered if it was a 50mm or 60mm?  I have a 60mm Lunt and DS it with a second 60mm etalon, and use it with my binoviewer with SW 40mm eyepieces.  I nearly always use it in this configuration and the 40mm EPs give a nice view, plenty bright enough for me.  I occasionally use it with 32mm EPs in good conditions, though it does go a little too dull with the 32xs for my liking - still usable though.  Going to 25mm EPs is too dull for me.

I would also add that I always use a dark cloth over my head for solar observing as it makes a huge difference in what you can see as you probably already know.

Which ioptron cuibe mount is it you are using by the way?

Regards, Paul

Hi Paul

I'm just about to order a Lunt 60/60DS from FLO and want to use it with Maxbright binoviewers so I was very interested to see your post.  I've not decided on a mount - what do you use for this combination?

Regards

Jane

[garryblueboy]

Here is My Lunt 50 with  some new toys Added  A Moonlite focuser and a Double stack and new Alloy case .

[Floater]

Bonny to see, Garry ... and a well-placed resurrection/redirection of a thread. ??

Stay bright.

[John]

I can't recall whether I've posted this - my Tak FC100DL in white light solar mode:

 

[Highburymark]

Good to see this thread spring back into life. Moonlite looks v smart Garry. I'm waiting to see what the Feathertouch for the Lunt will be like before deciding - but interested to hear what you think of your new focuser.

John - good to see your beautiful DL primed for white light. I'm close to pressing the button on an FC-100DC at the moment, and if I have any change left, which frankly is unlikely, a Lunt wedge wouldn't go amiss.

[Cometeer]

7 hours ago, Highburymark said:

Good to see this thread spring back into life. Moonlite looks v smart Garry. I'm waiting to see what the Feathertouch for the Lunt will be like before deciding - but interested to hear what you think of your new focuser.

John - good to see your beautiful DL primed for white light. I'm close to pressing the button on an FC-100DC at the moment, and if I have any change left, which frankly is unlikely, a Lunt wedge wouldn't go amiss.

Perhaps I can be of assistance: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/552017-feathertouch-focuser-for-lunt-50/

[Highburymark]

18 hours ago, Cometeer said:

Perhaps I can be of assistance: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/552017-feathertouch-focuser-for-lunt-50/

Thanks Cometeer - I had been following this thread on CN but had missed the last few days - what's interesting about the Feathertouch is it seems to centre the sweet spot - something I'd very much welcome in my own scope. I like the look of the Moonlite but at the moment am favouring the single speed Feathertouch

[Cometeer]

10 minutes ago, Highburymark said:

Thanks Cometeer - I had been following this thread on CN but had missed the last few days - what's interesting about the Feathertouch is it seems to centre the sweet spot - something I'd very much welcome in my own scope. I like the look of the Moonlite but at the moment am favouring the single speed Feathertouch

 

I have a FT (dual speed) on the way for an outreach scope. Will post a review on CN.

Edited October 26, 2016 by Cometeer

[Dave In Vermont]

Simple and grab & go - one of my ST80 F/5 scopes solar-outfitted:

 

 

I love these Helio-Pod's from FAR Laboratories in Massachusetts. They make finding & centering our Sun a breeze:

 

 

BE VERY CAREFUL LOOKING AT THE SUN! CHECK & RE-CHECK YOUR EQUIPMENT. ALWAYS!

Dave

 

[Ben Cartwright SASS]

I have been observing solar for about a year now, did it as a way to avoid light pollution, but the biggest thing is that sun constantly changes!!

 

 

 

 

[alanjgreen]

Here is my Lunt LS60 double stack H-alpha setup (got it out now the sun is awake!)

 

I have made a few modifications to the basic double stack setup

1. swapped out the crappy chinese focuser for a Baader NT focuser (can be trusted to hold my MarkV)

2. added a TS 360° Rotation with M90 thread between the LS60 and the DS60 units, it allows me to rotate the DS60 to find the best position for the conditions.

3. unscrewed the 1.25" eyepiece holder from the blocking filter and attached a Baader heavy duty T2 quick changer directly to the blocking filter

4. MarkV (with x1.7 GPC screwed inside) attaches direct to the quick changer.

The mount is a SkyTee2 with ADM saddle upgrade.

 

Alan

 

Edited January 14, 2017 by alanjgreen

[alanjgreen]

On 2/19/2016 at 11:17, AWR said:

What I meant to say was that the Baader Newtonian Focuser fits to the Lunt once you remove the base plate (I THINK!).  The Baader focuser should be cheaper than the Moonlite. 

If you want to use the Moonlite focuser, you need the Moonlite Lunt flange.

HTH Andrew

 

On 2/19/2016 at 11:01, paulastro said:

Andrew, would I be correct in thinking that the Baader Newtonian flange would be more easily available and perhaps cheaper?

 

Andrew, Paul

See the pic of my setup posted in a post just above.

I have the Baader NT focuser attached. Yes, you just remove the base plate (there are 4 grub screws holding it on) from the NT focuser.

The main focuser unit is then an exact fit for the LS60, just need to loosen 3 grub screws on the scope to get the chinese one off.

NT focuser slips straight in, tighten the 3 grub screws and youre good to go!

Alan

 

Edited January 14, 2017 by alanjgreen

[Moonshane]

Here's my three

102mm f7 ed

120mm f7.5 ed

100mm f10 pst mod

 

[alanjgreen]

On 2/8/2016 at 20:44, paulastro said:

Many thanks for your response.  Perhaps 50mm as a DS is not considered bright enough by many people, though I've never heard anything along these lines.  I would have thought someone might be interested to use it as a stand alone etalon an a small refractor.  I don't know if you including a BF with the etalon, but if not this may be putting people off. 

Adding a DS50 to the LS60 effectively reduces the aperture to 50mm. When I was buying my setup from Ian King, he told of several customers who found the DS50 underwhelming on the LS60 but said no-one had ever complained when double stacking with the DS60.

It helped push me to go the extra for a DS60.

I only use binos with my double stack setup. I never use single stack.

Lack of brightness in not an issue.

Will your DS50 fit onto a LS50? Maybe you could find out then try to also sell it to a LS50 owner?

 

 

[janesdsg]

On 14/01/2017 at 13:12, alanjgreen said:

Here is my Lunt LS60 double stack H-alpha setup (got it out now the sun is awake!)

 

I have made a few modifications to the basic double stack setup

1. swapped out the crappy chinese focuser for a Baader NT focuser (can be trusted to hold my MarkV)

2. added a TS 360° Rotation with M90 thread between the LS60 and the DS60 units, it allows me to rotate the DS60 to find the best position for the conditions.

3. unscrewed the 1.25" eyepiece holder from the blocking filter and attached a Baader heavy duty T2 quick changer directly to the blocking filter

4. MarkV (with x1.7 GPC screwed inside) attaches direct to the quick changer.

The mount is a SkyTee2 with ADM saddle upgrade.

 

Alan

 

Hi Alan

Is this the Baader focuser you have:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-diamond-steeltrack-focusers/baader-steeltrack-diamond-nt-for-newtonians.html

I have a similar set-up to you and have been thinking of changing the focuser for something a little sturdier when using binoviewers ... and I've yet to choose what my partner is buying me for Christmas 2016

Jane

[alanjgreen]

37 minutes ago, janesdsg said:

Hi Alan

Is this the Baader focuser you have:

https://www.firstlightoptics.com/baader-diamond-steeltrack-focusers/baader-steeltrack-diamond-nt-for-newtonians.html

I have a similar set-up to you and have been thinking of changing the focuser for something a little sturdier when using binoviewers ... and I've yet to choose what my partner is buying me for Christmas 2016

Yes, the "diamond" is the new version, mine is the previous steel track. I imagine  the size is identical. They have just improved the focuser mechanism.

 

Edited January 15, 2017 by alanjgreen

[janesdsg]

Tks for the info.  PM sent.

Edited January 15, 2017 by janesdsg
Forgot to add text

[Floater]

Hi, from me, too, Alan. Just about to take a dip into binoviewing with the same scope setup, so may I ask what /which EPs in your pic? There's a familiar colour scheme ... ?

My default is a 12mm Cemax and not sure if I should twin it with another for the binoviewer or go for TV 15mm.

Any comment?

Any others wish to comment, please?

Edited January 15, 2017 by Floater

[Moonshane]

Look like 24mm Panoptic which with the 1.7 x gpc equates to 14mm.  In my 100mm pst mod I use 25mm and 18mm eyepieces with with a 1.7x gpc but that's a longer 1000mm focal length of course.

[alanjgreen]

14 hours ago, Floater said:

Just about to take a dip into binoviewing with the same scope setup, so may I ask what /which EPs in your pic? There's a familiar colour scheme .

Floater,

As moonshane says, the pic has the TeleVue Panoptic 24s shown. With my binos (and x1.7 GPC) then the panoptic24 are my goto eyepieces. (they are equivalent to using 14mm without the barlow)

14mm gives x35 magnigication on the sun. This produces a nice size, clear image all year around. This is the magnification level I would recommend as a starting point purely because it is useable for 12 months of the year.

The pan24's are exceptional eyepieces and I often find that they show stuff that you miss at a higher magnification - I would never part with them

When I want more power, I drop to a pair of panoptic 19, (with the barlow they are equivalent to 12mm) which gives x41 magnification. This magnification is great for active regions and proms. But in the lunt60, the sun is now larger than the sweet spot so you lose the ability to see the whole thing sharply.

I use the pan19s a lot from March-Sept (as the sun gets higher & out of the atmosphere) but always start with the pan24 to get a wider all-over view.

Occasionally, (in the summer) I drop to a pair of Delos17.3 (equivalent to 10mm without the barlow), giving x50 magnification. On days of great seeing you can really get into the action areas. But these days are few & far between.

I personally do not go over x50 on the sun. Sharp focus becomes a challenge beyond this point.

Other people seem to get down to 8mm & 6mm but my experiences are that this is too much for a razor sharp view. Of course, my scope is a double stack so either I have lost a bit of brightness to get to the higher magnifications or my DS system just shows more stuff so I can see better where the focus point is

 

Floater, Your choices of 12 & 15 seem spot on to me (if you are able to get away without a barlow to achieve focus)

It maybe not worth getting any new EPs until you have achieved focus. You can test this out with one eyepiece and one eye!

Once you know the barlow size then factor that into the eyepiece size calcs. Aiming for x35, x42 & x50.

Alan

Edited January 16, 2017 by alanjgreen