Received telescope for Christmas, not sure if what I am seeing is intended

[Shand]

Hi all,

I recently received this for christmas:

http://www.ozscopes.com.au/skywatcher-black-diamond-bd2001p-ota-reflector-telescope.html

I also received a a laser to collimate the telescope.

Last night, at least in Australia we had this event:

http://theconversation.com/a-rare-christmas-full-moon-and-other-astronomical-treats-of-the-festive-season-52639

Adjusted the telescope with the laser as best I could went out side to check out the moon, found the area with the scope on top of the telescope (looked nice through this) then when I went to look through the eyepiece the attached image is basically the same as what I see when I look (taken with my phone but you get the idea). The moon was very bright last night but I thought it would be a bit more magnified then that.

Not sure what I have done incorrectly. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

[wxsatuser]

Looks out of focus, you did try focusing I presume.

[johnoelliott]

What eyepiece were you using?

The image is way out of focus, were you not able to get it focused at all on the moon or any bright star?

[MarsG76]

Shand,

Welcome to Cloudy Nights.   that is a mighty fine telescope you got for Christmas.  Should serve you well.

First, are you an absolute newbie or do you have years of experience with telescopes.  It would help us to know.  

Have you ever collimated a telescope before?    If you are new at this perhaps this will help.  Yours will work basically the same way.

How to Collimate an Orion Dob using a Collimation cap or laser

If that photo is supposed to be the moon then you are seriously out of focus.

What eyepiece were you using?  Did it come with the telescope?   Was it seated all the way into the focuser?

Were you using any form of a filter?

SGL.. ;-)

[MarsG76]

Aside from being out of focus, how many eyepieces do you have... the magnification is dependent on the eyepiece focal length... for example a 10mm eyepiece will give you a higher magnification than a 25mm... counter intuitive but that's how it works, smaller number = higher magnification.. to workout the magnification you divide the telescope focal length by the eye piece focal length... so if using the eye pieces I used as a example on your scope, that would be 1000/10 = 100X magnification or 1000/25 = 40X magnification.

[Shand]

Thanks for all the help, much appreciated

Yep telescopes are completely new to me, I had followed some videos I had found on how to collimate the telescope which I believe is as good as I can do it. FYI I followed this video 

I didn't realize until literally an hour ago that I am able to turn the eyepiece to focus it, although just looking through it (it's currently day here) I cannot notice any difference, I'll need to wait until tonight. Feel like such an idiot that I didn't know this last night!

My telescope came with a 28mm eye piece. I have no idea what I am expecting to see with my set up and finding things feel exciting yet so daunting - at least using such a large telescope appears to be.

[Dave In Vermont]

Ed is also, in his defense, a denizen of Cloudy Nights. When you act as a compedium of data, it's easy to forget upon which road your driving on.

I also have a CN account. But I doubt he's quite figured out who I am over there in the swamp.....

Tee hee hee,

Dave

[Alan64]

...a beautiful telescope.

I'd get a simple, passive, combination Cheshire-and-sight tube, and double check the collimation... http://www.ozscopes.com.au/skywatcher-newtonian-collimation-eyepiece.html

Laser collimators are known to require collimation in and of themselves.  I wouldn't entrust my Newtonian to such alone.

This is a view of the scene through my 150mm f/5, through the passive tool, and of its well-collimated optical train...

http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm

[dweller25]

Hello Shand and wecome to SGL.

To focus the view you need to move the eyepiece closer or further from the tube - you do this by turning the rubber coated knobs just below the eyepiece.

During the day try to focus on something around a mile away - anything less and it may be too close to come into focus within the limits of the focuser range.

[Astro Imp]

I didn't realize until literally an hour ago that I am able to turn the eyepiece to focus it, although just looking through it (it's currently day here) I cannot notice any difference, I'll need to wait until tonight. Feel like such an idiot that I didn't know this last night!

When turning the focus knob is the tube moving in and out? If not you need to adjust the thumb screw underneath the focuser.

Don't worry we'll get you sorted, we all had to start somewhere.

HTH and good luck.

[ronin]

As already said it looks well out of focus and turning that bit at the top as you have discovered takes care of that. Equally you have one that allows you to turn it - couple of people have received their scope with the focus unit set too tight to adjust.

I have access to a scope that has an electronic focuser, I wear glasses but often observe with them off. When this scope is "locked" the focus wheels turn, but they are actually disengaged and just do nothing when they turn. So I take glasses off, look through the eyepiece, adjust focus and absolutely nothing happens. I am starting to remember this characteristic of the scope but still fall into the trap.

For future reference there is (or should be) a small plate "under" the focuser that has some small screws in - one is for tension (how hard to turn) and one is for locking it completely. The others hold the plate on.

Now the dirty trick that is often played on people getting one of these for the first time:

The scope can take a 2" eyepiece or a 1.25" eyepiece. When shipped out they put the 2" adaptor in, then they put the 1.25" adaptor in the 2" adaptor. And it all looks right.

You then come along and drop the 1.25" eyepiece in and it will not focus.

You have to have either the 2" adaptor in or the 1.25" eyepiece adaptor in NOT both.

So check the focus unit and gently ease out the 1.25" adaptor, then look and gently ease out the 2" adaptor, then put the 1.25" adaptor back in all on its own.

If collimation is OK leave it alone, until you know what the routine is I suspect that you could upset the scope as much as make any improvement.

I note that the blurb says "Recommended Usage - Astrophotography", not sure that is 100% correct. The 200P scope for that is designated "200 PDS".

If the scope is a 200 PDS then tell us as I think you will need an additional item - a small extender for the focuser/eyepiece.

[Shand]

Thanks everyone.

I am sure the scope has a 2" eyepiece and came with an adapter to put a 1.25" in to it.

I don't have any other eyepieces but the one it came with, the 28mm.

I don't really like my attempt at collimating the scope, I'll try again and post some pictures of what I have achieved.

[Alan64]

A 200mm f/5 is an excellent choice, and for observing the gamut.  I have one myself, and in the process of being restored...

It was a custom-order back in 2003, and configured specifically for its f/5 ratio.  The company never offered 200mm f/5 instruments within its regular line.

Ownership of a Newtonian can be daunting at first, but the art of collimation is soon mastered, with the right tools and guidance.  In time, you will be astounded at what that 200mm f/5 will exhibit when properly collimated.

That to be accomplished is quite simple really.  The celestial light enters the front opening in a straight line.  It then strikes the primary mirror in the back and, due to the mirror's parabola or curvature, transforms the column of light into a cone and directs it towards the smaller, angled secondary mirror at the front.  By the time the cone of light reaches the secondary, it is only as wide as the secondary itself.  The secondary then continues the path of the light cone and directs it into the eyepiece... http://img.bhs4.com/3B/3/3B3B99B5B9659E8D1F84FB764451A1ADDEA13AD5_large.jpg

The secondary mirror is oval in shape, but when one looks straight down upon it through the focusser, it should appear round...

It must appear round and centered within the focusser's opening.  Then, the primary mirror is tilted just so to point the light cone directly at the secondary, and lastly for the secondary to direct it into the eyepiece.

You'll soon get the hang of it, but I strongly suggest getting the aforementioned passive tool, as well as a collimation cap(if one did not come with the kit)... http://www.firstlightoptics.com/other-collimation-tools/rigel-aline-collimation-cap.html

You might even get by with just the cap, but the sight-tube feature of the passive tool is necessary at times.

Laser collimators are for Newtonians of such longer lengths whereby one cannot look through the focusser and adjust the collimation screws on the back of the tube at the same time.  The less-expensive laser units are not much more than novelties.  At a length at or less than 1000mm,  a 200mm f/5 doesn't need one at all. 

[BritAngler]

That's a great 'scope you have there, and one that will see you through many years of frustration as you look up at yet another cloudy sky. I was going to mention the 1.25" and 2" adapters, but Ronin already mentioned that....

For collimating, Astro Baby's page is one of the best using a Cheshire eyepiece and a collimating cap  http://www.astro-baby.com/collimation/astro%20babys%20collimation%20guide.htm

Forget laser collimators for now, they just add a whole new set of issues and many (like myself) don't use one at all.