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smuudge

Would these batteries power my 130SLT ?

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Just make sure when buying any power supply that the polarity matches your mount (tip positive?). If you make a mistake you will fry your circuit board.

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The Annke reads as the better however it is some 10" long, the other is smaller, just thinking they will likely sit on the base where the mount arm joins.

The 8000mH one needs a converter made, that is 2 bits from Maplin they come to about £4-£5 for them and you need to make the connector up.

The 8000mH one takes a bit to charge, gets to 11.8volt in the given time but for 12.8 volts add another 5 to 6 hours.

Just bought the same one for myself for a Meade ETX 105.

One advantage of the Annke is that it reads that it supplies 13.2 volt, which on scopes is useful, as I get the idea that 12v is minimal and that 13v is better, also cold nights and general use will drop the performance. They do not sit at 12v all the time.

Any idea about the description for the Annke that says:

This interface is only used in Rubik's cube do when using the power supply output power supply.

This is in the second image down.

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Hi Ronin thanks. Could you clarify what couple of bits you bought from Maplins please? Is it very tricky to do. Would hate to get it wrong and fry the circuit board of my SLT!

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Just got delivery of the same Annke unit, but alas I can't tell you if it's any good yet, as I'm still waiting for my scope to arrive. It seems very solid and quite nicely made, but be warned that the instructions are only vaguely approximating English. I'll report back when I have more info!

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Hi guys the Anke has the following type connector.

The size is DC 5.5 and the tip is positive current

Would this fit the 130slt?

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Smuudge, I am planning to just use the cigarette lighter output socket on the battery pack. If you plan to do something else I would check with Celestron for the input specs.

I will be powering an Orion 127 Mak with StarSeeker IV mount (SynScan v4) when the bloomin' thing arrives!

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Hi guys the Anke has the following type connector.

The size is DC 5.5 and the tip is positive current

Would this fit the 130slt?

Hi,

5.5mm is correct for the OD (outside diameter), however, the ID (inside diameter) of the tip needs to be 2.1mm... some are around 2.3mm or larger and will not make a connection to the pin in the centre of the socket on the mount.

The Positive tip polarity is correct.

Good luck and be careful how you charge that battery... don't leave it un-attended... lithium batteries must be handled and charged with great care... if the battery gets too warm to touch when charging then disconnect it immediately and seek help from a qualified engineer.

It should also have a LOW VOLTAGE cut-out or warning light to prevent over-discharge; which would severely damage the battery.

Good luck.

Best regards.

Sandy. :grin:

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Hi everyone thanks for the feedback. Just heard from the manufacturer again and it is a 2.1mm inner connector so should do the job!

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Hi guys. One other option I've been looking at Anker® Astro Pro2 20000mAh Multi-Voltage (5V 12V 16V 19V) Portable Power Bank External Battery USB Charger for Tablets, Netbooks, Notebooks, Laptops and Smart Phones -- Compatible with HP, Dell, Acer, Asus, Toshiba Notebooks, Google Glass, Nexus Tablets, iPads, iPhone 6 5S 5C 5 4S, Samsung Galaxy S5 S4, S3, Note 4 3 2 and More https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00BUJCMUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LXgzwbRB9CGTR

Would this be better than my original suggestion?

Thanks!

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The big question with devices like that is 20000mAh, is the capacity, the device also supplies 5, 12, 16 and 19V.  But at what voltage is the 20000mAh or to simplify, 20Ah.  Knowing Anker Kit, I would suspect that it'll be 20Ah at 5V.  So at 12V it will behave more like a 8Ah.  I did the maths roughly, but you have have to allow some inefficiency for the voltage change from 5 to 12v.  That's before the battery gets cold outside and leaks charge.

The other question that I'd have about that piece of kit is - you are going to be using it at night, and there is a single button to change between the voltages.  Are you sure that you really want to trust that you'll never plug the scope into that battery when it's been accidentally set to 19V?  Would your scope's electronics survive that encounter?

Personally, I'd be looking for a dedicated 12v only supply.

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