Lodestar x2 issues

[HighHo]

I have just got a Lodestar x2 camera but having issues before I have even really started, in PHD2 with the cap on I get a fair few pixels showing (tested also outside last night with same issue). If I take darks and then use them I just get an image similar to a de-tuned TV. I have tried both the SVX and ascom driver and 2 diffrent computers. I am hoping I have just missed something stupid, I have attached images below if anyone can help, just want to ensure im not doing something silly before contacting the seller (FLO).

Cheers.

[ChrisLX200]

That's perfectly normal, you get some hot pixels which the darks have taken care of, then PHD2 has automatically stretched the image to an average grey.

ChrisH

[HighHo]

Thanks Chris good too hear, heard some people say there Lodestar's had just a few hot pixels so wasnt sure it mine was within the 'acceptable range', not sure I understand the average grey as just looks like a mess to me with the dark frames (looks like the static from a detuned analog TV signal). Hopefully if this is all normal it will all make sense when I have a star in the camera image,

[ChrisLX200]

Thanks Chris good too hear, heard some people say there Lodestar's had just a few hot pixels so wasnt sure it mine was within the 'acceptable range', not sure I understand the average grey as just looks like a mess to me with the dark frames (looks like the static from a detuned analog TV signal). Hopefully if this is all normal it will all make sense when I have a star in the camera image,

It is all as expected, but I doubt you'll be using 10sec guide exposures so unlikely to see that many 'hot' pixels anyway. PHD2 tries its best to average the display out to show whatever is in there - even if there's nothing! So a plain black image is stretched enormously until something shows - and what you have there shows you have a good flat background. My Lodestar has about 5 hot pixels which show up well with 1sec exposures, but they disappear with darks. The fuzzy grey background also disappears as soon as a star is in the FOV and PHD2 stretches the whole image again to accommodate it.

ChrisH

[HighHo]

Thanks Chris, that all makes sense about the strech, excuse my ignorance as its my first guidecam and weather has not been on my side to try it since reciving it (have done focusing in daylight, so hopefully ready to go!)

Even at 1 seconds all the hot pixels from my 10 second image one are still visable (I count around 40), does this high for a brand new camera?

Cheers,

Alex.

[ChrisLX200]

Thanks Chris, that all makes sense about the strech, excuse my ignorance as its my first guidecam and weather has not been on my side to try it since reciving it (have done focusing in daylight, so hopefully ready to go!)

Even at 1 seconds all the hot pixels from my 10 second image one are still visable (I count around 40), does this high for a brand new camera?

Cheers,

Alex.

There is a difference between Hot (or 'warm') pixels and 'stuck' pixels which read maximum output all the time. At the moment you cannot tell what they are - all you know is they 'appear' hotter than the average background. You would need to take your 10sec exposure and use a program that will read out the value of the pixels - if the hot ones are all 255 (8-bit image) then you know they're stuck on full brightness. The info you will get by doing this is just to satisfy your curiosity really because the camera will still function anyway using dark frames. The thing to avoid is failing to use darks then trying to guide on one of these hot pixels! (BTDT). It is annoying to find these things in your apparently brand new camera but that's just the way CCDs work (not CMOS - which generally are less noisy). They are also temperature sensitive, so if you were taking images in a warm room that would exacerbate the problem, outside in the cold they will be reduced both in number and brightness (unless they really are 'stuck' - which would be surprising to be honest).

ChrisH

[HighHo]

Thanks for all your help and resurrances Chris, much appericated. I got chance to try the camera last night and all worked perfectly so I am happy! Normally would try equipment before asking for help but im moving this week so was a bit parinoid I wouldnt have chance to test it within a reasonable time (if there had been an issue). As a side note think I have seen some of your results also on startools forums which have been fantasic!

[ChrisLX200]

Thanks, I like StarTools ;-)  Glad your camera is OK  - just be sure to secure/support the lead that goes into the back of it, even the X2 seems to suffer from damaged socket connectors if the lead gets pulled (the older versions were renowned for this problem). Make a loop and secure it with a cable-tie to the camera body, this will take any strain off the connector itself.

ChrisH