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As i would like to give it a try with a color camera and therefore need the funds i am selling my Mono camera setup.
All come in original boxes in excellent working condition, filters have been in the filter wheel since i bought them.
Atik 383l+ Mono boxed with all extras £900
Astrodon Ha 3nm 36mm boxed £620 SOLD
Astrodon Oiii 3nm 36mm boxed £620 SOLD
Astrodon Lum 36mm boxed £180 SOLD
I will be happy to send any photos to someone who is interested.
Payment via Paypal in Uk Pounds or Euros (buyer will pays the fees if any)
Safe and Secured shipping with tracking number. Postage expenses by me.
Has anyone had any experience installing ASCOM driver onto the EQM 35 pros SynScan hand controller for using with PHD2? I'm watching a tutorial using PHD2 and the chap is using ASCOM for connecting his computer to his guide camera instead of using a cable. So the computer becomes the middle man instead of the mount.
I have a remote telescope set up in Spain. It has an Atik EFW3 7 position filter wheel. I use Seqeunce Generator Pro to control the set up.
I was advised by the owner of the remote site that he uses a Pegasus Astro Ultimate Powerbox v2 which considerably simplified the cabling. So, I decided buy one also.
It was installed a few days ago.
However we have been having significant problems with the filter wheel. Before the Powerbox was installed, the filter wheel had performed flawlessly for over a year.
The problems are:-
The filter wheel, on start up, often does not move when commanded to do so in SGP. It sometimes says "Moving" in SGP but then stays at the Luminance filter which is in Position 1 on the filter wheel. If I close both SGP and disconnect the Powerbox and start again, it then sometimes (but not always) starts to accept instructions to move correctly for filters 1 to 5.
However, even when it is moving the filters correctly, filters 6 and 7 are inaccessible. It acts like they are not there at all.
The site owner has checked the cables and they are properly installed.
Can you please offer any advice on how to proceed? I do like the Powerbox concept and hope I can continue to use it.
Thanks for looking.
A few months back, i bought my first mono camera, an Atik 383l+ from Martin @Xsubmariner off here. I hadn't had a chance to give it a whirl until last night.
I thought about getting the 80ED out, but i've been wanting to do some widefield stuff for a while, so i attached an old Tamron 135mm F2.8 vintage M42 lens i picked up last year for next to nothing. The lens needs to be stopped down to F5.6 (perhaps less, i haven't tested though) to produce acceptable stars in broadband, but i was hoping it could be used more wide open for Narrowband. I used step-down rings screwed on to the end of the lens hood to bring the aperture down to 37mm, which is about F3.65 (i did briefly try it wide open in Ha, and it wasn't that bad tbh, but i could still make out some comet-shaped stars in a few places so i opted to stop it down a bit to play it safe). I have a TS Optics filter drawer in the optical train, so i can still swap out filters without too much fuss. I still have about 3-4mm of extra backfocus space to spare, but i can already find focus as it is, so i'm not sure if it's that important that i haven't fully used it all up.
Focusing was tough. I was focusing using a Bahtinov mask on Deneb, and i had to use 10s subs (subframes) at 2x2 bin to get bright enough spikes for Bahtinov Grabber to pick up to the spikes ok. Even then, it was showing the focus error moving about quite a bit, even without me touching the focus ring. In the end i just got it as close as i could and went with it.
Conditions were not great. Some clear spells, but there was a lot of cloud passing through. I figures it would be good enough for a test session. The Phd guide graph looked horrific, and was somewhere in the 1-2" range (image scale is 8.4" so not a big deal hopefully). I bodged together a couple of old dovetails to add enough weight to counter-balance the 5Kg counterweight. It just about does. It's not perfect by any means, but hopefully sufficient for this purpose.
I would ideally like to shoot 1200s subs, but couldn't last night due to the constant clouds (Phd lost the guide star countless times). I was about to give up, but persisted and aimed for 600s subs. Glad i did, as i ended up with 6 useable subs, even if a couple were affected by some thin cloud.
Did a quick stack in APP and a 10 min process in PS, just to get a rough idea of what i can expect from this. I used Flats and a couple of Darks just to do a rough calibration. Didn't do any gradient reduction, was in too much of a hurry after packing up last night. Overall i'm fairly pleased with how it performed. I'm obviously not aiming for Samyang 135mm F2 levels of performance here, but for purely NB bi-colour mosaics i think it can do a job.
I've included a picture of the rig below as well, in case anyone's interested.
6 x 600s (1 Hr)
Atik 383l+ 2" Baader Ha 7nm
Tamron Adaptall2 135mm F2.8 (@F3.65)