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gnomus

Cable routing options

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You are neglecting one important factor. That is as follows:

1) Post here seeking advice

2) Get useful advice

3) Ignore advice and go with first instincts

4) When it doesn't work as expected, re-read (2)

I find that this procedure helps to multiply expenditure splendidly.

You forgot the next problem - clutter!

My zip up cable protector arrived yesterday, I will let you know how I get on with it.  Job for the weekend.

Cheers,

Fondofchips.

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I think I've got it all under control now.  Here is my arrangement:

post-39248-0-89237800-1444309271_thumb.j

I've attached the bundle to the Tak clamshell (where it meets the Skywatcher plate) as in this photo:

post-39248-0-43531000-1444309277_thumb.j

I may move the bundle to the junction between the Tak base and the dovetail, but I have slewed this arrangement all over the place and nothing seems to be catching or dragging.  Thanks all for your help with this.

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Because I had a dangling USB cable and I was stupid my mount pulled the USB socket out of my Atik EFW2 filter wheel  :eek:. To Atik's enormous credit they will replace the entire EFW2 circuit board for EUR 30.80 + shipping + VAT which is great service. But I don't want to do it again! 

Because this particular mount is a travel mount I can't tie everything down. One way to attack the problem is to have a USB hub which moves with the scope. Then you only have one USB cable from the scope to the PC to worry about (and one power cable from the scope to the power supply).

The HiTec Hub Pro Ultimate saddle has a hub built in but it costs "around £700" and what do you do if the hub stops working?

http://www.eastmidlandsstargazers.org.uk/topic/7305-hitech-astro-mount-hub-pro-ultimate/

My alternative is to attach this slim, light weight Anker hub, which only costs £10, to my telescope's dovetail plate with double sided tape; this is easy because the hub is so small and light.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00Y25XFGK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Then I connected the camera, filter wheel and guidescope to the hub via short (0.5m) USB cables.  I use these:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FCK3AA0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Finally I connect the hub to the PC via a good quality long USB cable to the PC. I use this 3m cable

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008EQYRRY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01

and alternatively I use this 5m cable (because I left the first cable at home  :sad: )

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/IT-Products/Connectivity/Cables-Leads/Active-USB-3-0-Extension-Lead-5m/p/XC4126

But is it reliable? I have used it a lot and so far never got the dreaded "failure to connect" message.

Here is a picture showing the Tak baby Q with the Anker hub stuck to its dovetail on my HEQ5 travel mount. (The white patches are so that I know which way is "up" in the dark :grin: ). I haven't finalized the cable routing but even now it's not as messy as it looks...

post-24339-0-91116500-1444367942.jpg

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I beg to differ. Make a harness that has everything in it, and on every set-up you attach it with one cable tie. When you're done, cut the tie and pack the harness. Personally, I wouldn't even dream of operating that rig in that shape ;)

/per

post-9361-0-51682200-1444370003_thumb.jp

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I had the same approach Per is recommending, but the harness seemed a bit to stiff... I have now moved to a solution where everything is connected to a USB hub (fixed on the telescope side - actually on the Atik EFW2), and from the scope to the mount I only have 2 cables: one for power and one from hub to laptop.

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+1 for Per's approach.

The Fisual zip up cable sleeving makes it dead easy to swap out an errant cable. I have mine cable tied to the rear of the dovetail, and then again to the front. The harness then loops forward, is tied to the Mesu CW bar knob with some Velcro and the then looped to the pier top. No snagging, no dangling cables hanging from the mount, and all cable are ready for the different configurations that I use- DSO with guide scopes/ Solar with Lunt piggy-backed/ Solar with Quark on triplet/Lunar and planetary with C11 and USB filter wheel. The nylon sleeve also allows the cables to slide and move within the sleeve which prevents the harness from getting too stiff.

I've tried most other approaches and this, to me, seems the best.  Spiral wrap is a complete pig when you want to add or swap a cable. Cable-tieing is similar. Corrugated flexible conduit is a pig to swap cables and it is too stiff. Those "behind the TV" sleeve that zip up are also a paint when you need to change cables.

Maplins also do a sleeve that opens up and allows cables to be easily added. It's a bit tighter than the Fisual sleeving, but works just as well.

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Thanks for the suggestion to use Braided Nylon Sleeves Per, consider it stolen :grin:

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The cabling issue can be a real p.i.t.a., I do not understand why mount producers don't make options available for through the mount cabling.

After having had quite some problems with cable issues, this was one of many reasons to buy an ASA mount: all cabling, power for the motors and for the other equipment as well as USB is going through the mount, NO cable issues what so ever.  For attaching the Kendrick digifire, MicroTouch unit, GPS unit  and other things to the scope, I use a piece of plastic sheet with Velcro on it, mounted to a Baader rider clamp, so I can change things easily if necessary and use it for balancing as well.

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I didn't know you could get zip up cable management stuff like that. I notice Amazon has a couple of sizes. What diameter do people use?

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As someone occasionally called upon to fix robotic rigs I would just ask you tidy minded ones to label or colour code all your cables at each end since there is no way of identifying them if you don't.  :BangHead:

Seriously, it's a good idea.

Olly

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As someone occasionally called upon to fix robotic rigs I would just ask you tidy minded ones to label or colour code all your cables at each end since there is no way of identifying them if you don't.  :BangHead:

Seriously, it's a good idea.

Olly

These things are worth their weight in gold:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Cablebug2-small-Coloured-Labels-Cables/dp/B00GDHALKI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1453384063&sr=8-8&keywords=clip+on+cable+label

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Steve,

I use the second type. Nylon braided, no zip. In fact, I think it is exactly the one you reference to. They come in 25m packages if I remember correctly, but many sell them by the furlong as well.

 

/per

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On 2016-01-21 at 10:55, ollypenrice said:

As someone occasionally called upon to fix robotic rigs I would just ask you tidy minded ones to label or colour code all your cables at each end since there is no way of identifying them if you don't.  :BangHead:

Seriously, it's a good idea.

Olly

I do wonder who that can be aimed at!

Point taken, marking equipment packed pending next trip :)

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31 minutes ago, perfrej said:

I do wonder who that can be aimed at!

Point taken, marking equipment packed pending next trip :)

It's ever since I accidentally fried Yves' focus motor that I've been worried about this!!! Identical cables going to the fan and the focus motor...

Olly

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I do have some Belkin USB cables with color ends the PC end keeping it own socket all the time...Power cables are all 13.8v any thing different would certainly be ideally a different type of plug but labelled for sure.

 

DSC_1721.jpg

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5 hours ago, perfrej said:

Steve,

I use the second type. Nylon braided, no zip. In fact, I think it is exactly the one you reference to. They come in 25m packages if I remember correctly, but many sell them by the furlong as well.

 

/per

Thanks, Per, your image did look like there was no zip and although a zip would make it easier to install, a 'seamless' sleeve would suit me better. Trigger pulled and sleeving on its way to me. I've also bought some heat shrink material to 'seal' the ends for neatness, thus guaranteeing that one of my USB leads will now fail! That said, I've never had a problem with failed leads as I always build in sufficient slack to ensure that they are never under strain. If the heat shrink proves to be a pain to install then I have my trusty self amalgamating tape to hand as a Plan B.

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