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jabeoo1

Lunt LS50C landed & incoming Moonlite for the LS50tHa

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After plenty of learning curves, lots of fiddling & questioning the capability of the filter, I have now proven to myself beyond doubt that its very very good indeed.  Once you use the scope in DS mode you won't want to go back.  

Seeing conditions here on Tuesday were really excellent, the Sun has become a little livelier lately & features on the disc have sprung into action.  The filters performance was finally allowed to really show off.   The level of clarity was astonishing. 

This is truthfully a brilliant bit of kit & highly recommended ! :)

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Its great to read you are enjoying your set up Jabe :laugh:  not that I was expecting anything else to be honest.

I have been wondering lately what effect a front etalon would have on the 80mm Esprit and the Quark :grin:  I dare not even look at the cost !!!!

Edited by Pig

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Jabeoo - brillant the new filter is delivering the results you'd hoped for. I haven't had a single clear non-work day since we last swapped reports, but had wondered how you were getting on. Are you still using TeleVue plossls mainly - at what magnification? And have you had any success with turning the filter to alter the sweet spot?

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I haven't had a single clear non-work day since we last swapped reports, but had wondered how you were getting on.

Are you still using TeleVue plossls mainly - at what magnification?

And have you had any success with turning the filter to alter the sweet spot?

You will get the chance with the clear days!    :)

Always TV plossls these days in all my scopes!, I regularly view with the 25mm, 20mm, 15mm & 11mm. (So x14, x17.5, x23 & x31).  I find this range covers it all from full disc detail all the way to more diluted scaled up active regions, prominences and filaments. 

The front etalon surface lens needs to be 180 - 270 degrees offset to the rest of my set up to really bring it all out.  I have read much info on this since you pointed out the 'clocking' technique to me.  Thanks ! ;)  I want to try and come up with an elegant solution to buffer the slop which occurs when backing off the filter.  I have some ideas and if they ever come to a reality I will let you know.  The other option is to get it machined from scratch but its going to be around £120.  

Oh and I forgot to ask, how is the new focuser performing?

I am currently waiting for the CNC machines at Moonlite to become free from the current production run.  I am really looking forward to ditching the stock focuser & getting some fine tuning in to eek it all out.  The Borg option also looks sleek!  I will get the details up ASAP....

Edited by jabeoo1
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The front etalon surface lens needs to be 180 - 270 degrees offset to the rest of my set up to really bring it all out.  I have read much info on this since you pointed out the 'clocking' technique to me.  Thanks ! ;)  I want to try and come up with an elegant solution to buffer the slop which occurs when backing off the filter.  I have some ideas and if they ever come to a reality I will let you know.  The other option is to get it machined from scratch but its going to be around £120

Wow - I'm impressed.

This really is the telescope that never stops giving - as long as you have the curiosity and patience to never stop looking

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The Lunt 50 moonlite should be back on track once they have finished making the Nitecrawlers

 

 

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Ron has started production on the LS50Tha's Moonlite focusers  :) 

The new moonlites profile are matched to the stock focusers profile, they cannot make them any shorter, so more in focus is sounding very unlikely.  

I am looking forward to seeing these. 

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Question to you all.  The new focuser:

With or Without the T2 thread on the draw tube?  

I only do visual so don't need it however if there is only one version of the focuser I am guessing that the imagers out there want it left on.  

Let me know what you want ! 

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Without for me. Even if I do imaging I'll be attaching the camera to the bf, not the focuser. If it doesn't hurt to leave it on, I don't mind as long as it doesn't add any extra length to the overall focuser draw tube.

Edited by Cometeer
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2 hours ago, Cometeer said:

Without for me. Even if I do imaging I'll be attaching the camera to the bf, not the focuser. If it doesn't hurt to leave it on, I don't mind as long as it doesn't add any extra length to the overall focuser draw tube.

Me too, length is going to be absolutely crucial.

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This DS really blew my socks off today, I can clarify I am very happy with this setup.   My well documented ups and downs are hopefully helpful to others, and at the same time not intended to put people off.  As with all things astronomical its about patience and willingness to persevere.  

When seeing is good and the features are actually there (cross reference with GONG) this thing really kicks things up a notch.  

In the words of Highburymark 'this scope just keeps giving',

I am more consistently enjoying this setup now :) 

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7 minutes ago, jabeoo1 said:

This DS really blew my socks off today, I can clarify I am very happy with this setup.   My well documented ups and downs are hopefully helpful to others, and at the same time not intended to put people off.  As with all things astronomical its about patience and willingness to persevere.  

When seeing is good and the features are actually there (cross reference with GONG) this thing really kicks things up a notch.  

In the words of Highburymark 'this scope just keeps giving',

I am more consistently enjoying this setup now :) 

As you said earlier once you use the D/S you probably will not use it without. As an imager the 2nd thing I do after powering up the PC, is screw on the Double stack :icon_biggrin:

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21 hours ago, bunnygod1 said:

As you said earlier once you use the D/S you probably will not use it without. As an imager the 2nd thing I do after powering up the PC, is screw on the Double stack :icon_biggrin:

I never even take mine off :icon_biggrin:

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2 hours ago, Cometeer said:

I never even take mine off :icon_biggrin:

Mine only comes off because it wont fit in my flight case :icon_biggrin:

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I use my DS Lunts on my TMB 92SS ... awesome!!! It is quite a deal to get things fine tuned... patience and perseverence are key elements in this.
Would like to buy a Baader Mark V binoviewer, but they are not available for the coming time...bummer. Instead I bought a 2nd hand Maxbright. 

I would like to get some suggestions for eyepieces, preferably zooms. Any advice is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Waldemar

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2 hours ago, Waldemar said:

I use my DS Lunts on my TMB 92SS ... awesome!!! It is quite a deal to get things fine tuned... patience and perseverence are key elements in this.
Would like to buy a Baader Mark V binoviewer, but they are not available for the coming time...bummer. Instead I bought a 2nd hand Maxbright. 

I would like to get some suggestions for eyepieces, preferably zooms. Any advice is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Waldemar

 

I love using my Delos with the Lunt, but the Baader Hyperion Zoom also works quite well.

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4 hours ago, Waldemar said:

I use my DS Lunts on my TMB 92SS ... awesome!!! It is quite a deal to get things fine tuned... patience and perseverence are key elements in this.
Would like to buy a Baader Mark V binoviewer, but they are not available for the coming time...bummer. Instead I bought a 2nd hand Maxbright. 

I would like to get some suggestions for eyepieces, preferably zooms. Any advice is really appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Waldemar

waldemar - I'm a zoom lover and can warmly recommend the Pentax XF zoom for ha solar - originally designed for a spotting scope, it's a superb solar eyepiece. 

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13 hours ago, Cometeer said:

I don't know if you guys saw this:

https://luntsolarsystems.com/product/1-25-feather-touch-focuser-2/

 

A feathertouch for the LS50. Looks like it's only single speed.

Looks similar dimensions to the helical focuser. Minimum focuser height of 48 mm and 15mm of travel. My replacement focus was a little under the minimum height and the travel is around 13mm on both of mine. The minimum travel is not an issue for ZWO camera uses threading direct in to the blocking diagonal. "In focus" is certainly of interest to myself as I still use a imaging source camera.

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