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leemanley

Anyone got any 1100D modded images to share ?

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Why do you want to use an IR filter?  It's only used for planetary and Moon imaging as far as I know.

The idea of modding a DSLR is to remove the IR filter.  

Looking at your Avatar name I am guessing you live in Birmingham, in which case the filter you need is a CLS filter and yes these can be clip in filters.

Carole 

Edited by carastro
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Why do you want to use an IR filter?  It's only used for planetary and Moon imaging as far as I know.

It can also be useful for DSO imaging. The problem with the stock IR filter in off-the-shelf cameras is they also block some visible light, crucially attenuating the Ha line. But with no filter at all the camera will register IR in the red channel. This can lead to star bloating especially when using a refractor, even an apo scope isn't designed to focus infra-red light at the same point as visible light.

I don't know how much impact this has on the final image quality really, all of my images have been taken without an IR filter in place. It would be interesting to see a side-by-side comparison.

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Here's some of mine...details can be found by clicking on the images...Not quite an ED80 but similar focal length. I use a Canon 650D now instead of the Canon 1100D...

As mentioned above, a UV/IR filter is recommended for refractors to prevent star bloating.

10462076866_99c7dd560a_b.jpg

M42 - Orion Nebula With NGC1993/5/7 - The Running Man by Stuart, on Flickr

10196711903_fe49344d7f_b.jpg

Horsehead and Flame Nebula by Stuart, on Flickr

8754184319_8c7f8747e7_b.jpg

2013-05-05 - M16 - Eagle Nebula by Stuart, on Flickr

8479735668_15541d5663_b.jpg

2013-02-14 - NGC2244 - Rosette Nebula by Stuart, on Flickr

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Those images are stunning Stuart, I have a 650D but not brave enough to modify it yet.

Alan

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Those images are stunning Stuart, I have a 650D but not brave enough to modify it yet.

 Alan

Just clench...then 2 hours after it is done you can unclench...I like the 650D...the flip-out touch display is a nice bonus. Gary Honis provides a nice step-by-step guide.

I have also modified a Canon 6D as well...that was much more nerve wrecking...

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I have sent my 6D for baader modd. And I hope I can use it for weddings and portrait.

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Unlike some other models of camera, there are two filters in a stock 1100D.  Removing one of them produces a standard 'astro modded' one that loses its ability to autofocus correctly (apart from in live view).  The baader filter restores this ability without blocking the Ha that the original filter does.  You don't need the baader filter if all you're going to use it for is astro.  This is how mine is modded.

The second filter thats on an 1100D blocks IR anyway, but doesn't block the normal Ha far red.  This is usually left in, as it prevents star bloat.

You can remove both (known as a 'full spectrum' mod, but then you need to install an IR filter anyway, or you get the bloat.

However, both methods end up slewing the colour balance towards the red end, so you need to use custom white balance to use them for normal photography.  The price of 1100Ds these days is reasonable, so it's better to dedicate one to astro if possible.  

Edited by AstroAdam
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So you've left the IR filter in then Adam? What does the other filter do? Nice picks BTW!

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Cheers :)

The mod itself was done by a member of my astro society.  Like I said, the second filter was left in, which blocks the IR that causes bloating without significantly affecting the passing of the Ha band.   I tried before modding it, and the red nebulosity I picked up in, for example, the horsehead, was significantly less.  However, Ieaving the second filter in means i don't get the bloat.  All the images above were taken with ED refractors...

I think the first filter has a relatively wider blocking profile than the second...

One thing to note is that the slightly bigger stars on the HH image are due to a slight focus issue rather than a bloat issue.  It was before I got my Bahtinov mask, and before I had the use of APT for on-screen live view focusing :)

Edited by AstroAdam

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Finally managed to catch up on this thread which has some interesting points in it. I am going to be retiring my 200PDS till autumn in favour of dual rigging my ED80/AR80 for some nice widfields of Cygnus over the next couple of months. 
As I have fully modded my 1100d, to avoid star bloat, do you think my 2" skywatcher LP filter help as I I dont yet have a clip-in filter.
Thanks
Lee

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Finally managed to catch up on this thread which has some interesting points in it. I am going to be retiring my 200PDS till autumn in favour of dual rigging my ED80/AR80 for some nice widfields of Cygnus over the next couple of months. 

As I have fully modded my 1100d, to avoid star bloat, do you think my 2" skywatcher LP filter help as I I dont yet have a clip-in filter.

Thanks

Lee

Here is the transmission graph of a Skywatcher LP filter:

post-33415-0-65980000-1434956900.jpg

It certainly blocks the ultra-violet, but appears to allow the far infra-red through and this will probably cause star-bloat in a refractor.

I am only speaking theoretically though, as I have neither a modded camera, nor a refractor to take pictures through, but the physics is sound.

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I don't know how much impact this has on the final image quality really, all of my images have been taken without an IR filter in place. It would be interesting to see a side-by-side comparison.

I was in error here, my modded 1100D isn't full spectrum. I had it modified by Cheap Astrophotography and they only removed one of the two filters that were originally in the camera, so it still blocks IR and UV light. This is why i haven't had any problems with star bloat when using camera lenses. Hope I didn't cause any confusion.

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Interesting thread this, some absolutely terrific images on show, well done to all!

I own a 60D and HEQ5 Pro & C8 and am interested in picking up an 80ED and trying my hand at some imaging myself at some point. The camera would have to be used as a family camera as well though, so I've been drawn towards http://m.cheapastrophotography.vpweb.co.uk/Home.html

However I'm a bit confused, can someone clear this up for me please?

Basically if I wanted to retain the ability to use the Auto functions of the camera for daytime use (I'm new to the whole Dslr thing!), so no messing about with custom white balances, would I just need to have a Full Spectrum Mod (so removing all internal filters), and then just swap between using an Astronomik OWB clip in filter for daytime, and the CLS clip in filter for Astro? With this method could i still use the built in flash for evening non Astro use, just as per a non modded camera? And what about the normal Baader replacement filter, would it not be needed?

Am I missing anything else here?

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a before and after of M42 when i modded my 1100D. Just a couple of minutes of subs but you get the picture.

m42_compare_zps06d4ab91.png

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Hi Lee,

Here are two of mine. Both taken by my Baader modded 1100d and WO Star71. The one from the IC1396 is pure Ha using an Astronomik 12nm ha filter under the Moon light.

Regards,

A.G

Wow loved you rendition to M31.

I would love to see a tutorial on how you processed it.

Enviado de meu SM-G530BT usando Tapatalk

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One of mine. Modded 1100D + Canon EF 300/4L IS + AstroTrac. Approximately 4 hours worth of 2- and 3-minute exposures @ISO800.

post-45229-0-76707200-1436386532_thumb.j

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Martin, thats a stunning bit of work, star colour, resolution to the core, everything. 
Top notch

Thanks
Lee

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Thanks Jimbo747 and leemanley! I put quite a lot of effort into processing that one :)

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

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Here's a recently re-processed image of the Orion Nebula.

20002082766_c8624d2042_b.jpg

Notable for being shot with a 1970s vintage SMC Takumar 200mm lens.

Edited by Knight of Clear Skies
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