Astrophotography

[D4N]

Check that your mount has a fitting to hold a DSLR, often they don't.

Sometimes it is a screw on the tube rings.

If you don't have a way to mount the camera on the mount then you will need an adaptor.

The setup may work for wide field shots with the cameras own lens but I doubt the EQ1 would be stable enough for longer focal lengths at prime focus n the telescope.

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[Vik12]

The mount is compatible with a camera and orion say they work well for astrophotography

[Vik12]

This is also just for the camera.  No telescope

[Vik12]

Hi,

I found that my father has an unused dslr!  Is there any thing I can do now??

[kens]

Set up the mount, attach the camera and give it a go. It's a good idea to try different settings and keep a record of them. Then see what works best.

By the way what focal length lens does the camera have?

[Vik12]

My dads yet to bring it....

I dont know much about photography either.

[Essex nightsky]

I'm a newbie but would echo the wide field advice, although id say look at mirrorless cameras. The advantage being when you do make the jump to prime focus astrophotography, the lack of a mirror assembly makes life a whole lot easier (inward focus)

[Joseki]

Hi,

I found that my father has an unused dslr!  Is there any thing I can do now??

Sounds good! When you have the camera, track down a copy of the instruction manual and read it (and ask questions here!).   It depends on what lens it has but a 50mm prime lens (i.e. not zoom) is good.  Generally prime lenses are better than zooms.  Autofocus isn't useful and you can get some cheap old prime lenses on ebay and elsewhere but start with what it comes with.  

If the camera seems to be okay on the eq1 you will probably want to think about getting a motor for it.  e.g. http://www.wexphotographic.com/buy-sky-watcher-d-c-single-axis-motor-drive-for-eq-1-mount/p10689?cm_mmc=googlebase-extension-_-astronomy-mounts-_-upgrade-kits-and-motor-drives-_-sky-watcher-d-c-single-axis-motor-drive-for-eq-1-mount_10689&utm_source=googlebase-extension&cm_mmc=-_-astronomy+-+astronomy+mounts+-+upgrade+kits+%26+motor+drives+-+sky-watcher-_-&mkwid=d1yqryeo&pcrid=73914105179

a remote shutter release is also very useful.

[Snaxmuppet]

I have found an intervalometer useful... like these...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=intervalometer&sprefix=intervalo%2Caps

They are only just over a tenner and a great way to take lots of pics without having to actually keep pressing the button and without having to connect the camera to a computer.

[Vik12]

I have a 18-55mm lens. Since I have a camera I am thinking to use the SW SA mount.  I have a topic posted about that in Getting Started Equipment Help and Advice .

Thanks,

Vikram

[Davey-T]

Just to mention if you're in a light polluted area and your 18-55 lens is the "s" variety you can't use a LP CLS clip filter with it.

Dave

[cathouse42]

Just to mention if you're in a light polluted area and your 18-55 lens is the "s" variety you can't use a LP CLS clip filter with it.

Dave

EF-S is generally, PLASTIC. Not really worth investing in for longevity and quality. It is designed for cheapness, not quality.

EF-S is being replaced by EF-M anyway.

You can fit a Skywatcher LP 2" filter onto canon lenses using a step down ring, 58mm to 48mm.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/58mm-48mm-STEP-DOWN-RING/dp/B0013UTYG2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1432815777&sr=8-2&keywords=58+48+mm+step+ring

I use one of these on my EF 58mm filter lenses and it works great on crop sensors, no vignetting.

The SW LP filter is inexpensive, it is very comparable in results to the Baader Neodymium filter at a cheaper price.

http://www.telescopehouse.com/acatalog/OVL-Light-Pollution-Filters-2.0-inch.html

You can see the SW LP filter results here

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/234757-skywatcher-light-pollution-filter-first-use/

http://stargazerslounge.com/topic/84918-comparison-of-3-light-pollution-filters/

Putting an expensive clip filter onto a cheap EF-S, well, I would imagine investing in better lenses is my first priority, lenses that can stand the test of time, and used as you upgrade your camera sensor/body. EF-S is dead in the water unless you want to remain on 1100d's the rest of your life. I would prefer to look to upgrade to a full frame instead of burning money (wasted) on EF-S. Especially if you do photography daytime also. You could also consider mono CCD's if you do not. Pumping money into accessorising EF-S is just throwing money out of the window. There are other areas you can spend that money on to get better results and will grow as you grow in the hobby.

You can get great pictures with an expensive quality lens on a cheap sensor/body, but you CANNOT get great pictures with an expensive quality sensor/body and a cheap lens. The lens is what makes photographs better, it adds MORE than the body / sensor does overall. Lens is what takes the picture.

Even with that, you WILL need tracking to get even better pictures, otherwise you will be stacking like mount Everest and short exposure times. Possible, but very limited.

[Dave Lloyd]

I set up an eq1 to take a dslr. Get a small metal plate and drill it to match the ring mount holes on the eq1. Couple of nuts and bolts to match. Stick a quick release or camera threaded bolt on the plate, buy a cheap RA motor and you're away. Not spectacular results but it'll get you going.

P.s get an intervalometer as well.

[Dave Lloyd]

I set up an eq1 to take a dslr. Get a small metal plate and drill it to match the ring mount holes on the eq1. Couple of nuts and bolts to match. Stick a quick release or camera threaded bolt on the plate, buy a cheap RA motor and you're away. Not spectacular results but it'll get you going.

P.s get an intervalometer as well.

[Vik12]

Dave Lloyd Is it good for long time exposure/ accurate?

Thanks,

Vikram

[Dave Lloyd]

It's pretty good. I've done 30 sec subs up to about 80mm. Sometimes it's just too wide field. The lens in the photo is a 10-24 but 10mm covers too much sky if you've got any lp on your horizon. As I said results ain't spectacular but you have a lot of fun experimenting to see what works. Good luck.

[Skipper Billy]

My first forays into astroimaging were with a very basic Canon 1100D with the kit lens, tripod and a cable release. Total investment about £250.

Had great fun taking Milky Way shots, Aurora, Moon  etc etc  quick and easy and LOTS of fun!!

[RT65CB-SWL]

Nobody's suggested sketching.

This is a great way to start imaging. It gives instant personal results. If you go to the sketching threads you'll find what can be achieved using very cheap equipment, without the fuss of imaging,

Nick.

And nobody has suggested a compact digital camera either!

I know that it can be a tad tricky to ensure the eyepiece is centred over the lens and there are a few gadgets/gizmos to attach a compact digital camera. I use an Olympus C2040 and a Nikon CoolPix 900 along with an eyepiece projection unit (EPU) made by Beacon Hill Telescopes. My photos are not perfect, (with exception of a few the Transit of Venus in 2004).

[cathouse42]

And nobody has suggested a compact digital camera either!

I know that it can be a tad tricky to ensure the eyepiece is centred over the lens and there are a few gadgets/gizmos to attach a compact digital camera. I use an Olympus C2040 and a Nikon CoolPix 900 along with an eyepiece projection unit (EPU) made by Beacon Hill Telescopes. My photos are not perfect, (with exception of a few the Transit of Venus in 2004).

Nobody suggested renting an online robotic telescope either.

If you want the Southern Hemisphere and you're in the North, it's one cost effective way.

I don't like it because It feels like I am taking screenshots from Google Maps or something, no real sense of self-achievement.

[Dave Lloyd]

And nobody has suggested a compact digital camera either!

I know that it can be a tad tricky to ensure the eyepiece is centred over the lens and there are a few gadgets/gizmos to attach a compact digital camera. I use an Olympus C2040 and a Nikon CoolPix 900 along with an eyepiece projection unit (EPU) made by Beacon Hill Telescopes. My photos are not perfect, (with exception of a few the Transit of Venus in 2004).

Lot less weight than a dslr but not as light as a pencil eh Nick:-)